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How to Install the Throttle Body Spacer for the R18

104K views 216 replies 95 participants last post by  Angeldejesus65  
#1 · (Edited)
R18 owners have long awaited buying any kind of performance mod that is made for their car. Well P2R has decided to step into the ring with their new Throttle Body spacer.

I am going to show you how to install it, sorry about the POS cell phone pics, its all I got since my camera is missing

Ok first thing first, buy the spacer, I decided to go with a site sponsor, so I went with corsport. Blazing fast shipping (2 day's) to my door. Great customer service and they keep you updated on your products constantly. Yay Corsport.

You also have to order a gasket for the spacer. Call up your local honda dealer and tell the parts guys you want the gasket that goes inbetween the Intake manifold and the throttle body. If he asks what it looks sorta like, tell him a funny o-ring.

Tools Needed:
3/8'' Ratchet
12mm 3/8" drive socket
13mm 3/8" drive socket
3" 3/8" drive extension
1/4" Ratchet
6mm 1/4" drive socket
3" 1/4" drive extenstion
Phillips Head screwdriver
Maybe a flathead
TB gasket from honda

What you get in the Box:
Image




Ok first thing first, I don't advise doing this on a hot engine because its all the way in the back and you will get burned. That said, I pulled up to the garage after an hour of driving and started ripping crap out.

I don't have the stock intake, so your going to need to use this guide to take it out: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engine/134495-diy-short-ram-intake-r18-ghetto-fabulous.html

If you have mikey6p's ghetto fab intake (which is arguably better than a short ram), Remove it. However you can get the intake to look like this without the filter (sorry lost the picture of it without the filter):
Image


Remove the MAF (its to screws, unplug it, then put the two small screws and MAF in a baggie so you won't loose or damage them).

Remove the elbo by loosening the clamp I am pointing to. You can either use a screwdriver or the 1/4" ratchet with extension and 6mm socket.
Image


Remove the four bolts shown in the pictures below:
Image


At this point you can lift the TB up high enough to slide the spacer behind it. It will take some work, but it can be done. Be sure to put the gasket in the grove on the TB like this (Also, you should have it sitting on there in this order; intake manifold, gasket, spacer, gasket, throttle body:
Image


Take your new bolts (which which use a size 13mm socket and not size 12mm) and put the supplied washer on it:
Image


I found it easiest to put the bottom left bolt on first, then the top left then the bottom right, then the bottom right. Also, I had to take a hammer and TAP on the bottom right to get it to sit in the hole right:
Image

Image


Bolt the intake back on
Go enjoy the increased throttle response, mid range gain, and if you have an intake increased growl...grrrrr
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks, I hope this helps some people, really simple install compared to all the others, just be extremely careful not to pull on the TB to hard when you take the bolts out. You could damage the Drive By Wire wires, or the coolant lines, which I plan on blocking off anway.

I take no responsibility if you damage something, you do work at your own risk, and neither me nor the 8th are responsible for stupidity.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
do you notice a difference in how it drives? is it worth it?
The Million Dollar Question lol


To be honest, it was an impulse buy, otherwise I wouldn't have done it. I was a huge skeptic...I didn't think that it would do jack diddly. I did notice that immidiately after install, the intake sounded deeper, and the car seems to accelerate harder 1500-4k or so. I also believe throttle response was increased.

I am not the only one however, many have reported that they have felt increases, although nobody has done a dyno yet (I would if I had time).
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
unless they can prove that the mod caused whatever broke to break, then they have to uphold your warrenty.

Ex: If your car locks up due to water getting sucked up by the CAI, then they won't pay crap

If your block cracks and you have a SRI, then they have to cover it because it wasn't the fault of the SRI that the block cracked.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Ya my AEM CAI sits pretty close to my battery now i dont think i will be abble to install this with a CAI
I bet it would. The AEM CAI uses brackets to keep it from moving around. plus it has silicone peices that connect one pipe to the other. Those silicone peices would make it move back to an almost stock location with the spacer installed.
 
Discussion starter · #102 ·
Haven't visited my thread in awhile. Thanks to all of you who have thanked me, its nice to have your help appreciated.

And to the one who wanted to know how do you know if you have a leak? You will throw some type of CEL because the engine will realize its getting unmetered air and running lean/rich
 
Discussion starter · #129 ·
Sorry I haven't been around to answering questions. Personal issues and problems made this take a back seat.

Thank you to all who have complimented my thread. And thanks to those who have answered questions where I might should have.


Im going to try and help on this more often, if you have any problems, PM me and I will almost always immediately respond.
 
Discussion starter · #137 ·
hey one question, on the installation instructions, you say that the order of the things are, manifold, gasket, spacer, gasket and throthle body, cool, so does that mean i need 2 new gaskets? or the car already has one, and i just need the other? i just ordered it and i want all the parts to arrive at once. thanks let me know

Sorry I didn't get back to you on this. You can re-use the one already on your car. No need to buy another one.