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civic hybrid aero dynamics on a FA5 Si

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#85 ·
what about fabricating a piece of sheet metal in a few parts maybe 4 or 5 for the entire underbody. it would add weight but it would be perfectly smooth, and for the area around the engine bay, you could cut slits or vents to pull the hot air in engine bay under the car, and easily add rear diffusers. this is what im considering because i can get a piece of 15'x6' steel sheet about maybe .025" thick. im just not sure because of the added weight it may be too much?
 
#86 ·
maximb said:
what about fabricating a piece of sheet metal in a few parts maybe 4 or 5 for the entire underbody. it would add weight but it would be perfectly smooth, and for the area around the engine bay, you could cut slits or vents to pull the hot air in engine bay under the car, and easily add rear diffusers. this is what im considering because i can get a piece of 15'x6' steel sheet about maybe .025" thick. im just not sure because of the added weight it may be too much?
Click to expand...
Do it and take lots of pictures. I want to see it.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2
 
#89 ·
Anti_ricer said:
No. They are two different things. I have both. The unique armor is for the oil pan only. They both compliment each other on getting the entire under car done though.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Ok I'm going to look into this. Anyway to test this setup and compare to another civic without it? But without the unique armor.


___________________
I love my FG2!
 
#90 ·
This seems to be the only decent aerodynamics thread on our forum right now, so...

I've done the hybrid underbody, works great. Also have a front air dam on track days (so I could mount intakes for brake ducts). All works well at high speed (130 mph).

Next mission is a functional and removable track day rear diffuser. Probably gonna experiment with thin gauge aluminum sheet and fins to make this work.

But while under there taking measurements, I noticed the big gaping "parachutes" from the rear bumper cover behind each rear wheel well. Anybody done anything to cover these up yet?
 
#91 · (Edited)
jrickerm said:
....But while under there taking measurements, I noticed the big gaping "parachutes" from the rear bumper cover behind each rear wheel well. Anybody done anything to cover these up yet?
Click to expand...
I noticed this when also when I installed the Hybrid's under covers on my FG.

If you purchased the old Hybrid rear under cover, it covered this area. The new part # does not. What you get with the new part # is the same rear under cover that the FG & FA use - this part doesn't cover that area. Unless you can find the old part # (ebay or salvage yards) you're SOL.

Old Hybrid rear under cover:
74625-SNA-A00COVER, RR. FLOOR (LOWER)

New Hybrid rear under cover:
974625-SNE-A00COVER, RR. FLOOR (LOWER)

If your FA came with splash gaurds, the parts below were removed and most likely discarded to install them. They may also be missing if a rear under spoiler was installed.

06-11 FA about $10 per side
74551-SNA-A00 COVER, R. RR. FENDER
74591-SNA-A00 COVER, L. RR. FENDER

06-11 FG about $5 per side
74551-SVA-A00COVER, R. RR. FENDER
74591-SVA-A00COVER, L. RR. FENDER

Sent from my SGH-T889
 
#94 ·
Had an itch to try this, so I came up with some "gap covers" behind the rear wheels and underbody to remove the big wind catchers. Probably adds around 4 sq ft of smooth surface, and weighs next to nothing.

$30 in alum sheet metal from Home Depot and a can of truck bed liner spray. Uses 1/4" trim pins and a few sheet metal screws to make it removable if necessary. Very time consuming little project because of the unique shapes involved. The passenger side near the muffler is especially hard.

I'll see if it helps mileage at all (probably minimal) but it does allow me to go to a wider four-fin rear diffuser setup now for track days, which I'll post up when done.







 
#98 ·
Got the rear diffuser done - came out pretty well. but takes some work to get the shapes right (each one is unique!) - I used cardstock to get the right dimensions worked out, then cut the Lexan (18" x 24" sheet was enough, $19). Aluminum angles with pop rivets and sheet metal screws to attach, except the back end of the long center fins, where I used the existing retainer clips on either side of the tow loop.

This is intended to be installed primarily for track days. Fins should be high enough not to have any trouble with speed bumps.



 
#99 ·
Nice, very nice. I went a different route. I cut my rear bumper up like 6 inches. I don't have bumper supports so I get the parachute effect in the bumper cover. I cut it up level
with the spare tire well and I just ordered a gp fabrication universal diffuser for 100.00
bucks on ebay. It will sit right under the spare tire right in the middle of the car. Its
only almost 2 ft wide by 2ft long, but this setup should provide more downforce and less drag for track days. I also got an ebay duraflex front splitter for 130.00 shipped that
should help with front downforce. This is budget racing at its best.
 
#100 ·
duramacr said:
Nice, very nice. I went a different route. I cut my rear bumper up like 6 inches. I don't have bumper supports so I get the parachute effect in the bumper cover. I cut it up level
with the spare tire well and I just ordered a gp fabrication universal diffuser for 100.00
bucks on ebay. It will sit right under the spare tire right in the middle of the car. Its
only almost 2 ft wide by 2ft long, but this setup should provide more downforce and less drag for track days. I also got an ebay duraflex front splitter for 130.00 shipped that
should help with front downforce. This is budget racing at its best.
Click to expand...
I found the diffuser on eBay and that will be my next purchase. Can u post which front splitter u bought?
 
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Darius
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