The turn signal/marker lights have 2 wires. Get a voltmeter to see which one you have to tap into (12v+). Black is normally ground, but still, test it!

 

Thank you for looking at this! I really appreciate it! But what about the red 12v positive? Should I just hook that right up to the battery?

 

I don't know, I would have to see how your kit works. My LED (vLeds) are plug-n-play as are my retros and fog lights (Morimoto LED). I didn't have to tap into anything. I would think the 12v+ go to your "parking" lights, again, I don't know how you are supposed to hook this up to your rig. Post your instructions, maybe I and someone else can chime in and help ya out.

 

https://images.carid.com/xkglow/pdf/xk043001-mounting-instructions.pdf that’s a link for the instructions that came with the led strips. I now know (thanks to you) where all the wires should go except for the red 12v positive. Assuming it just needs a 12v source to connect to in order to give it power, so the white drl positive wire can connect to the radio fuse, black to ground, and the yellow to the 12v positive within the turn signal harness. Also another question, would you suggest just using a t tap in order to connect the yellow wire to the turn signal wire?

 

Sorry, been crazy busy. So then, the red 12v+ should go to a switched (circuit is on when you turn the key and turn the electrical system on.... just before you turn the engine on) wire. DON'T hook it up directly to your battery. I'm still confused on the (white) DRL wire. My guess is that is acts as a signal to dim the DRL kit????? Anyway, that is my best guess.

 

Ah yes. That makes much more sense, I’m getting the red and white mixed up. Honestly, I’m not sure either what it’s for or where it would go. My guess is it’s for newer cars so the white would hook up to those drl’s. Hopefully I won’t have to use it and forget about it, but we will see when I’m able to test these out. Appreciate the help, will post pictures and update the thread about it

Edit: the red and white must be connected to the same power source. They go together to turn the drl’s on.

 

So under the hood there is nothing you SHOULD tap into being they are major functions of your car. However, inside, under the dash, there is a fuse for the radio. Before you go tapping into this, what are the volt/amp requirements of the DRLs? They should not exceed what the OEM (factory) can handle. If they are lower (we know it requires 12v, but how many amps does it need? I'm thinking not alot ............), when tapping, use an Add-a-Fuse product (safest way... use Youtube on how to use/install one safely). Hope this helps,

Here is a link on the car's wiring/fuses:

Fuse & Wire Guide

Here's a list of fuses and location #'s.. hope this helps! Updated: Also included wires & locations! Under-Hood Fuse Box 1. 100A - Main Fuse 70A - EPS 2. 80A - Option 50A - Ignition Switch Main 3. 30A - ABS motor 30A - ABS F/S 4. 50A - Headlight Main 40A - Power Window Main...

www.8thcivic.com

 

This does help a lot and thank you! I would assume the Amps is 10 (being the headlights are 10, and other videos of installing drl led strips in cars say 10amp fuse) but you’re right it doesn’t say. Those videos have different leds and different cars, so the problem still sticks. There is the accessory fuse, but that is 15 amps. Installation tutorials on fog light kits for the 2008 say that the fog lights install to a 7.5 amp fuse where the drls are. I’ll have to try and find more information on the strips. Again thank you!

edit: the wires themselves on the strips don’t show, they are protected. so it’s hard to find exactly what the gauge is for the wire.

 

18-20 gauge will work fine.

 

Thanks for all your help, truly. I would hope that the accessory fuse would work, but that’s 15 amps, so the ACC and radio fuse should work the best. You’ve really helped me figure this out and a million thanks.

 

If you have LED DRL's, I would tap a constant power source (switched). Do not tap into the turn signal wires b/c they WILL flash and I'm sure you don't want that. As far as a third wire, i have no idea.

 

i figured it out. none of my headlight wires had constant power so i tapped the oil level sensor fuse in the engine comp fuse box and so it runs power any time the keys turned. we all good

 

How were you able to fit the Fuse tap into the #15 7.5A oil sensor slot with a relay fuse blocking the direction of the correct wire placement ? .. I had to turn it around for it to run out the fuse box to fit into the slot all the way