Surprisingly I have found very little information on how to replace your PCV valve. It's location: Looking at your engine, left (passenger), behind the valve cover. Taking a clear picture of it was very difficult so I took the best pics I could while doing this. It is a cheap part (about $12), that doesn't normally die, however it is cheap and KINDA easy to do. I'm very religious when it comes to maintenance, but this is an item I always forget about. Hope these pics and instructions help anyone who wants to do this yourself.
Symptons: Nothing, not even a code
Why replace: cheap part, not terribly difficult to do. I saw A LOT of "gunk" (accumulated oil/dirt) near the valve. Looked ominous (having oil built up like this pointed to a leak, so it seems logical that the valve needed to be replaced. Cheap insurance never hurt anyone.
Tools/parts:
1) 1 universal joint (I used a 3/8" ratchet)
2) short extension
3) long extension
4) 11/16" deep socket (used to get PCV valve in/out)
5) needle nose pliers (if you have bent-tip pliers, even better)
6) Ratchet (duh)
7) Long flat head screw driver
8) Can of PB Blaster
9) Bottle of engine degreaser (anyone will do)
10) Rag
11) 1 brand new PCV Valve (Honda part# HP17130-PND-A01, Valve Assy, PCV)
12) 14 mm crush washer (same as oil drain plug)
13) Water hose (to hose off PB blaster and degreaser)
14) Beer (optional).
My R18 sedan had about 158,000 miles on it when I did this and the PCV valve had never been replaced. I get upper 30s mpg and have no issues. She travels about 110 miles a day.
Here we go:
As mentioned, the PCV valve is located behind the valve cover on the passenger side of the engine. You can't see it when looking at it directly, but you will see the hose that is clamped onto it.
See the green clip? Unhook that to have access to the tube leading to the PCV valve.
![Image]()
After degreasing only this section of the motor, I'm pointing to the tube in question.
![Image]()
Here is another view of the hose with the PCV below it (middle of pic).
![Image]()
Here you will see a metal bracket used to align attached wires and hoses. It is bolted to the motor by a 10mm bolt that faces the firewall. I couldn't get to it for the life of me (didn't have the proper tools), but I bent it out of the way and bent it back when I was finished. If you can remove it, better, if not, my way will help. Note: you HAVE to get it out of the way to access the hose and valve.
![Image]()
Here's a better look at the clamp you must pinch and slide upward. This is where your bent-tip pliers will come in handy. Before you remove the hose, spray a little PB Blaster to loosen up the PCV. I let it sit for about 10 mintues before I hosed it off, then went in with my tools to get it out.
![Image]()
Position your tools:
![Image]()
Old PCV valve was in tight, but came out easily enough. Here is what it looked like. Anyway, When you take it out, you will notice a crush washer sitting (unless you are lucky enough to have it come out with the valve) where the valve sat. I took a long flat head screw driver and tapped the end of it to loosen this washer. Worked like charm.
Out:
![Image]()
Crush washer (stayed on the engine block):
![Image]()
Take your rag and wipe area as best you can. I'm not sure when the next time I'll have to replace the PCV valve, so it might be in there for another few years, so I like to use anti-seize on the threads to avoid aggravation in the future. Get some anti-seize (see pic) and spread it around the threads. Position the your new crush washer and finger tighten the valve into position.
![Image]()
After you tighten the PCV valve, place the hose onto it and use your pliers to clamp the hose toward the end. Next, bend (or reattach) the metal bracket back into place. Re-clip the green holder and you are done!
![Image]()
Feel free to drink your (optional) beer and enjoy. I can't say for certainty that I prevented certain engine damage, but it's so cheap and I have a lot of miles on my rig, so this can't hurt it in the least.
Hope this helps anyone with an R18! :dancingcoolsmiley:
Symptons: Nothing, not even a code
Why replace: cheap part, not terribly difficult to do. I saw A LOT of "gunk" (accumulated oil/dirt) near the valve. Looked ominous (having oil built up like this pointed to a leak, so it seems logical that the valve needed to be replaced. Cheap insurance never hurt anyone.
Tools/parts:
1) 1 universal joint (I used a 3/8" ratchet)
2) short extension
3) long extension
4) 11/16" deep socket (used to get PCV valve in/out)
5) needle nose pliers (if you have bent-tip pliers, even better)
6) Ratchet (duh)
7) Long flat head screw driver
8) Can of PB Blaster
9) Bottle of engine degreaser (anyone will do)
10) Rag
11) 1 brand new PCV Valve (Honda part# HP17130-PND-A01, Valve Assy, PCV)
12) 14 mm crush washer (same as oil drain plug)
13) Water hose (to hose off PB blaster and degreaser)
14) Beer (optional).
My R18 sedan had about 158,000 miles on it when I did this and the PCV valve had never been replaced. I get upper 30s mpg and have no issues. She travels about 110 miles a day.
Here we go:
As mentioned, the PCV valve is located behind the valve cover on the passenger side of the engine. You can't see it when looking at it directly, but you will see the hose that is clamped onto it.
See the green clip? Unhook that to have access to the tube leading to the PCV valve.
After degreasing only this section of the motor, I'm pointing to the tube in question.
Here is another view of the hose with the PCV below it (middle of pic).
Here you will see a metal bracket used to align attached wires and hoses. It is bolted to the motor by a 10mm bolt that faces the firewall. I couldn't get to it for the life of me (didn't have the proper tools), but I bent it out of the way and bent it back when I was finished. If you can remove it, better, if not, my way will help. Note: you HAVE to get it out of the way to access the hose and valve.
Here's a better look at the clamp you must pinch and slide upward. This is where your bent-tip pliers will come in handy. Before you remove the hose, spray a little PB Blaster to loosen up the PCV. I let it sit for about 10 mintues before I hosed it off, then went in with my tools to get it out.
Position your tools:
Old PCV valve was in tight, but came out easily enough. Here is what it looked like. Anyway, When you take it out, you will notice a crush washer sitting (unless you are lucky enough to have it come out with the valve) where the valve sat. I took a long flat head screw driver and tapped the end of it to loosen this washer. Worked like charm.
Out:
Crush washer (stayed on the engine block):
Take your rag and wipe area as best you can. I'm not sure when the next time I'll have to replace the PCV valve, so it might be in there for another few years, so I like to use anti-seize on the threads to avoid aggravation in the future. Get some anti-seize (see pic) and spread it around the threads. Position the your new crush washer and finger tighten the valve into position.
After you tighten the PCV valve, place the hose onto it and use your pliers to clamp the hose toward the end. Next, bend (or reattach) the metal bracket back into place. Re-clip the green holder and you are done!
Feel free to drink your (optional) beer and enjoy. I can't say for certainty that I prevented certain engine damage, but it's so cheap and I have a lot of miles on my rig, so this can't hurt it in the least.
Hope this helps anyone with an R18! :dancingcoolsmiley:
