you should always have flywheel resurfaced/replaced when the clutch is out.

The picture shows where you have glazing. Depending on the shop costs, it can be cheaper to go new than resurfacing. Always get new flywheel bolts as well.
IMO get it done right now that way you have a long time before you have to separate the trans and engine again

 

Thats what I am thinking. May have to find a place to resurface as I can't find a stock one in town at the main part stores. May just call the dealer in the AM to see if they have one as well.

 

Well Honda in town wanted $350 for OEM fly wheel. Machine shop wanted $60.

Off to the machine shop!!!


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I've seen better and I've seen worse when it comes to flywheels. That one looks like it's seen a decent amount of slipping and heat, but from the pics doesn't look like it's got a bunch of scoring from disc rivets or too much uneven wear. I'd say you probably caught it in time for a resurface to be acceptable.

For comparison, I replaced the clutches in both my cars last fall. The '92 Miata with 135k had an oil leak that took out the clutch, and the rivets chewed up the flywheel surface. Lots of scoring and chatter marks, that one I had to replace. My '06 Si had 100k on it, the flywheel looked the same as the back of the pressure plate pictured, and I got away with just scuffing and reinstalling it. Yours is somewhere in between.

 

Good choice with the resurface... the heat focused onto those hotspots actually hardens the metal and the surface wears unevenly... so reassembling without removing them will give you issues in the future.


Since we're sharing flywheel pics here's the flywheel from my 98 last summer... This was a candidate for a quick scuff, but I ended up changing my mind and getting a new flywheel when I found out I could get a new one for only $65 or so... 350 is a rip...

 

Thanks guys, this was def heat from all the recent slipping.

The dealer price was a joke, but made some calls found a good machine shop here in town. Now it looks new and is ready to go.

 

I got the Exedy OE clutch off of Amazon for $120. Part # KHC10. Got my flywheel resurfaced. Cheap, easy and my clutch feels great. 1500 miles so far, no issues. Exedy makes good **** man.

 

Word!! haha.
Yeah, I've used Exedy in my cars since 2003, when I first discovered them.
Everything from OEM replacements to about 780hp applications.

I went with Exedy "Stage 1" this go around on the SI.

 

Another question here.
Is it normal for these transmissions not to mount flush to the engine when aligning?

My scenario:
I aligned the transmission pretty much perfectly. Bolt holes and the 2 aligning studs are mounted. However I can't get it to push all the way flush against the block.
I've even rotated the flywheel some just incase the input shaft splines weren't aligned with the clutch, but still the same.

I've put the bolts in but have not tightened. Of course I can tighten them to get it to be flush, but didn't know if there is something quirky going on.

Below is a picture of the gap

 

You are already through the clutch splines, input shaft likely isn't seated in the pilot bearing. It's a very tight fit. Sometimes it pops in the first try. Other times it takes an hour of wiggling the gearbox and cursing. I would not recommend tightening the bolts to draw it in, you can damage the bearing or input shaft. Just try fiddling with it a bit more.

 

Good point… however i'm thinking of taking a deep breath and slide the trans back out and just double check everything, make sure the pilot bearing is ok, etc.

Then put it back in and wiggle for a another hour or two.
This is definitely the time where I wish I had a lift.

 

Well I took my deep breath and went at the trans again last night.

I took it back off and inspected everything.
Clutch was on correctly and still aligned properly.
Pilot bearing had no damage.

I lubed up the 2 pins, the pilot bearing area, etc.
I repositioned the trans on the jack and aligned it as straight as possible and pushed it in. It wasn't quite there and prob about 20 min of wiggling etc, it popped in and only had about a 1 cm gap this time.

So I was all it well with the trans.

Next up is putting the subframe back in.

 

Nice work! Those things can be a PITA (Pain in the a$$%) when putting them back in. TheIncident88 was right though..... lots of wiggling and cursing and pulling it back off. Took me 3 tries last time I put one in. Not easy to do if you're laying on the ground underneath it, trying to muscle it in. The rest of it is cake.


BTW.... I have the Exedy staqe 1 clutch as well. On my 2nd one in my supercharged 06 Si with 75k miles on it. It's just a little stiffer than stock, and provides a good engagement feel. Play around with your clutch pedal settings to get them how you like it without over compressing the clutch. I had too much throw with the first Exedy I had and it resulted in reduced life. You don't need to have a huge throw on it. My pedal throw is very minimal and I have great engagement and disengagement. Anyone else who hops in it always stalls it though. But then I get to laugh at them and make fun of them for not knowing how to drive a stick.

Let me know if you want any tips on how to adjust the pedal.

 

I'm always open for tips!

Well got everything together and drive a few miles with no issues.
The clutch engage point is relatively small and very low, so I may adjust just a tad.
Now I'm looking forward to breaking it in.


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