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256 whp....any more and a rod will snap and hit you in the face.

0-256whp - check
257+ - piston in face
pheeewwww, just made it:laughing:
 
Old Honda rule of thumb Stock HP x 1.5 = Max safe HP

there are no reflash's avablie throw CT or hondata
Hondata does have reflashes available for the 2006-2008 Civic Si. However, "the reflash is specifically tuned for the USDM 06 and 07 Civic Si K20Z3" Check the page here:
Reflash - K20Z3 06/07 Civic Si


As for figuring out what your safe upper hp level is you can use this formula that has been around forever for Honda engines. Stock HP x 1.5 = Max safe HP
So for the K20Z3 it would be like this 197 bhp x 150% = 295 bhp
But if you caluclate it off the stock JDM K20A Type-R @ 225bhp you would get 337 safe bhp
337 bhp is going to be your safe upper limit. However, this calculation spawned from the B-Series tuning years. The K-series is known to have a stronger bottom end than the B-Series engines and you can assume for that reason your safe limit will be higher. I would say around 360 bhp is still pretty safe on a stock K20Z3 long block. And everyone knows that the Honda cranks are forged from the factory and super strong. B-series factory cranks could safely handle 800+ hp.

But the true test of anything is just to push things until something brakes, then figure out what went wrong. (But no one really likes doing those types of test though. lol)
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Hondata does have reflashes available for the 2006-2008 Civic Si. However, "the reflash is specifically tuned for the USDM 06 and 07 Civic Si K20Z3" Check the page here:
Reflash - K20Z3 06/07 Civic Si


As for figuring out what your safe upper hp level is you can use this formula that has been around forever for Honda engines. Stock HP x 1.5 = Max safe HP
So for the K20Z3 it would be like this 197 bhp x 150% = 295 bhp
But if you caluclate it off the stock JDM K20A Type-R @ 225bhp you would get 337 safe bhp
337 bhp is going to be your safe upper limit. However, this calculation spawned from the B-Series tuning years. The K-series is known to have a stronger bottom end than the B-Series engines and you can assume for that reason your safe limit will be higher. I would say around 360 bhp is still pretty safe on a stock K20Z3 long block. And everyone knows that the Honda cranks are forged from the factory and super strong. B-series factory cranks could safely handle 800+ hp.

But the true test of anything is just to push things until something brakes, then figure out what went wrong. (But no one really likes doing those types of test though. lol)
ok so good to hear the power numbers am looking for a safe thank you, But as for tuning for a S/C kit what can there be done? when i look at hondata website they didn't state having a reflash for the S/C kit. It's just a basic reflash for I/E/HR not S/C. So when people buy the S/C kits what do they use piggy backs??????
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
sorry guys if am asking stuiped question but some time you can find some miss leading info on forums. I have been researching this topic forever before i started a thread on it and i just don't know what to believe anymore. (not talking about you guys) But THE-HONDA-MAVEN from what read knows whats he's talking about
 
The Comptech Engineering SC comes with a Hondata Reflash specifically tuned for the SC. When you buy the SC you have to send your ECU to HOndata for them to reflash it. If you try and run it without doing this bye bye engine. And I would think that tyhe reflash is a little better than a piggyback. I wish I had a reflash for my GReddy kit. The Emanage is OK but it has it's limitations. You could try the AEM F/IC and give that a shot. I guess some guys are having tremendous success with it.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
do you think the hondata tune is better then using the AEM unit and getting it tuned?
But in a other forum that i readied about, some people stated that they had so take off issue's in first like they had to give it more gas, but im not sure if they had AEM or hondata. But my Question is this, those of you who have the CT kit do you notice any driveablity issues or dose the car feel like it drive's like it did when it was stock intil you hit boost? I hope i make some sense here guys thank you for answering my questions
 
I know plenty of people making 350-470whp on a stock block. You'll probably break something else before you blow the motor. My friend with a Type-S is pushin 470whp and he's on his 5th transmission. If you want some great power with still daily driveablity, 300-350 should be more than enough. Just be sure to upgrade your clutch to atleast a Competition Stage 4 if not a twin disc(if you have a strong leg)lol. Also, get some stronger axles if you wanna be extra safe.

My 2 cents..
 
do you think the hondata tune is better then using the AEM unit and getting it tuned?
But in a other forum that i readied about, some people stated that they had so take off issue's in first like they had to give it more gas, but im not sure if they had AEM or hondata. But my Question is this, those of you who have the CT kit do you notice any driveablity issues or dose the car feel like it drive's like it did when it was stock intil you hit boost? I hope i make some sense here guys thank you for answering my questions
youve already read the thread, you know the answer
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
I know plenty of people making 350-470whp on a stock block. You'll probably break something else before you blow the motor. My friend with a Type-S is pushin 470whp and he's on his 5th transmission. If you want some great power with still daily driveablity, 300-350 should be more than enough. Just be sure to upgrade your clutch to atleast a Competition Stage 4 if not a twin disc(if you have a strong leg)lol. Also, get some stronger axles if you wanna be extra safe.

My 2 cents..
will noted brother thank you, But my goal is 250whp it's a DD, but to sum this up
guys please read this thread http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/forced-induction-nitrous/104360-ct-e-sc-trouble.html
these are the problems i don't want
 
the problems are not from what the block can handle, it's the tuning

if you want a perfect drivable car, just get the bolt-ons, and wait for a tuning solution

if a good standalone is out, all the bogging issues and such will be part of history
 
the problems are not from what the block can handle, it's the tuning

if you want a perfect drivable car, just get the bolt-ons, and wait for a tuning solution

if a good standalone is out, all the bogging issues and such will be part of history
:yeahthat:

so even with the hondata tune the S/C guys still have Bogging issues
search. some ppl have them, some don't..

will noted brother thank you, But my goal is 250whp it's a DD, but to sum this up
guys please read this thread http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/forced-induction-nitrous/104360-ct-e-sc-trouble.html
these are the problems i don't want
Why? Why do you want a 250whp DD? Do you also do any sort of racing? Do you want 250whp N/A, SC, or T? You know that all three feel different, and have pro's and con's right?

I don't like threads like this, for one reason. Most ppl that have a "WHP GOAL" in mind DO NOT understand what that translates to. Have you ever even ridden in a 250whp CIVIC or tried to drive one daily? Factor in some things...

First how much are you looking to spend and how soon do you want it done? Cheapo? NOS. Baller? AJP or Comptech.

Regardless you have to flash the ecu and learn more about it's inner workings (i/e tuning solutions and problems).

Second.... What effect do you want? Do you like the sound of a BOV? The "whine" of a SC, or purge effect thatt makes h/s kids cream? Do you want your car to be a sleeper?

Third.. What do you do for a living and where do you live? How's this factor in? Well if you're still at home w/ mommy and daddy, a S/C 08 Si is something you'll probably brag to your friends about who will in tern spread the word and you're car will be broken into or stolen. So does your neighborhood know you enough to help you look after your BRAND NEW car? How much do you make? Can you even afford one or is this like "one day I'm gonna buy a Lambo. Anyone know how they do in the 1/4 mile?" If you can afford one, are you mechanically COMPETENT enough to do the work yourself or troubleshoot a f*&k up? If not, I wouldn't even think about it.

Fourth.... it's an 08 right? do you give a **** about your warranty?

The list goes on and on... PPL "plan" to do all kinds of things. Since this is your first thread, I'll go "easy" on ya, but you need to research. Open ended threads like this one go nowhere. There's so much knowledge on this particular forum, and so many ppl that can help, opening a thread like this is pointless unless you give your background (i.E. make a new thread and introduce your self)

A S/C is gonna run you somewhere in the neighborhood of $3500-4500 installed. And you'll destroy your warranty. You could possibly find the exact sound/performance/look WITHOUT going f/i and killing your less than 60 day old warranty.

I good I/H/E/Clutch/Flywheel/Pulley's/TBS/TBG/IMG and maybe a set of cam's WHEN TUNING IS AVAILABLE should put you somewhere in that neighborhood. there's ppl right now hitting dynos at 210-220 N/A and their completely "untuned"...

Hope my info was taken for consideration, not trying to punch ya in the face:kisssmiley:
 
300 whp dyno
YouTube - 2006 civic Si 300whp dyno run

Comptech S/C
YouTube - COMplex's Comptech Supercharged 2006 Honda Civic SI (FG2)

255whp Greddy
YouTube - 2006 Civic Si Greddy Turbo Dyno Run

AJP 300whp
YouTube - 06 Si street run after 300whp dyno

AJP AGAIN
YouTube - AJP Shop Car Puts Down 539 whp at 20 psi

282whp Greddy
YouTube - 282 whp 216 ft-lbs turbocharged 07 civic si


now all that took me 5-10 min to find on youtube which means if you exhausted some work you'd get the answers your looking for:thumb:

send some of these guys messages since you know they're not "speculating" about what "should" and "might" work. Ask them how they like their 250+whp DD cars.
 
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