[FlowMix]

Hey, I have Honda civic 2007 LS in Israel (the first level) and I installed those buttons. The volume works alright but the cruise dont. I connect the 3 wires to the instrument buy 1 wire I can’t connect because there is some other wire already. Can you help me to install this cruise control? Thank you

Hmm, there shouldn't be any difference in wiring for this feature install, but I'll try to help.

You said on the back of the instrument cluster. Is that the top one or the bottom one? Attach a photo of the connector please so I can see what all wires are connected already.

 

[FlowMix]

View attachment 250031

The connector is upside down, those are not the slots where you're supposed to put the wires.

Spin the connector 180 degrees where the clip portion is facing up not down. These slots are where the 3 wires are supposed to go.

Looking at your adapter harness thing, I'll tell you where to put your 3 wires. Put the yellow wire in spot 1, white wire in spot 2 and red wire in spot 3.

That should do it as long as everything else is connected and your ECU has cruise control coded into it.

Let me know if it works!

 

[FlowMix]

Hi, could you show me the cruise control wire that going to the connector?

Which wire are you talking about? I have all of them in the original post but tell me which one specifically you are looking for.

 

[FlowMix]

Hey I connected the 3 wires but it’s still don’t do anything, I don’t do something in the ECU because I don’t now what and how to do this can you help me 🙏

Sorry for the late response, but first things first. When you start the car it should do a light check on both the tachometer and speedometer. Do the 2 green lights for the cruise control turn on? If not you may need a new tachometer from a market that supported cruise control. Or, you can attempt soldering in 2 LED's if you have a spare tachometer board laying around and you'll have to confirm with a multimeter if the 2 circuits for those LED's come out of 2 pins on the back of the tachometer.

If they do turn on briefly then turn off, it's something else. In this case, did you run the wire from the brake pedal switch to the ECU?

And also, did you confirm if the brake pedal switch is 4 pin? My civic had a brake pedal switch that took a 4 pin connector but the switch itself only had 2 pins in it so I had to buy a 4 pin switch.

Sorry, it's difficult to help without actually having the car in front of me.

You need to make sure that all the connections that I've made you have made as well or already existed before you started.

Hope this helps! Let me know what you find

 

[FlowMix]

Hey in the speedometer there is no light when I press on the button. I still dont change the unit brake pedal and dont run wire to the ECU.
Run wire to the ECU is required? Or I can do something else to make this work? Thank you 🙏

That's not right, if you ran the wires from the steering wheel to the tachometer correctly it should at least turn on when you press the button. Did you make sure to check if your clockspring has all the pins? My civic had the correct clockspring in it but your own may have the clockspring with less pins in it.

Yes you need to run the wire to the ECU for this to work as well as change the brake pedal sensor if it's not the correct one.

You have to make sure all the things I did in the write up have been done.

Also you didn't answer the two questions I asked, does the cruise control light turn on when you start the car? And, is the brake pedal connector a two pin or 4 pin? If it's 4 pin, unplug it and confirm if the sensor itself also has 4pins or if it has 2 pins only.

 

[FlowMix]

I also replce the clockspring to other one, I will check If I have 2 or 4 pin.The light of the cruise doesn’t work if I press on the button or turn on the car. I need to find some one to run the wires because I don’t know how to do it

Okay, so to confirm, when you first start the car and the tachometer does its function test where all the lights turn on, the cruise lights don't turn on?

If that's the case then the LED's are missing. Or, you have a tachometer that has a different layout for all the circuits and the pins are in different locations. Where is your car from if you don't mind me asking?

You'll have to take apart the tachometer and confirm that the circuit on the board for both LED's is complete before anything else.

To do this you need to test for continuity. Put one lead on the LED side of the circuit and the other lead on the connector side on the pin. If the circuit is complete for both LED's then you just have to find a donor board and have the LED's removed from it and installed on your board.

 

[FlowMix]

My car build is from Japan (2007 ls) and I am from Israel and when I start the car there is no light in the cruise control icons

Hmmm, okay.

Does your car have paddle shifters?

If it does then your tachometer might have a different pin layout meaning the function of each pin might be organized differently from my tachometer.

Are you able to open up your tachometer? You don't have to open it up fully, just remove the plastic shield and remove the bezel so you can lift the black plastic with the icons on it. From there check so see if there are LED's in the two spots where the cruise lights are supposed to be.

If you're able to let me know if the LED's are there.

 

[FlowMix]

The car is automatic gear, I dont know for 100% how to do this correctly for not breaking there something

Yes it's automatic, but are there paddle shifters behind the steering wheel? If you have paddle shifters there should be a tiny square screen on the right side of the tachometer which would tell you what gear your in when using the paddles.

Is your shifter P,R,N,D,L, P,R,N,D3,2,1 or P,R,N,D,S?


Ah, if you're not too sure you'll have to pay someone or get someone you know to do it. Sorry man.

 

[FlowMix]

I don’t have shifters My is P,R,N,D3,2,1, yes I know, I already payed to someone to install those buttons but the cruise doesn’t work because we don’t run wire from the ECU

Ahh okay okay,
Well the thing is, even without the wire going to the ECU the button on the steering wheel should turn the light on the dash on at the very least which means either something wasn't connected properly or the LED's in the tachometer are missing, or the circuit isn't there like I said before.

The only way to confirm is to partially take apart the tachometer and test with a multimeter.

What are you gonna do?

 

[FlowMix]

Here is the clock spring connector that wire from cruise is going to View attachment 250171
View attachment 250170

Oof, okay, to better help you I need to know some things.

1. Are the switches and the harness all aftermarket? The wires do not look factory.
2. Did you do any wiring? Or did you just install the harness the way it was?

I have a spare cruise control switch so when I get home I'll tear it open and tell you which wires are for what. We can move forward form there.

Edit:
Looks like the switch is a bit different so can't help there.

But I already found the pinout, and all the wires on this connector look okay and in the right slots.

 

[FlowMix]

Hmmm

 

[FlowMix]

Here is the clock spring connector that wire from cruise is going to View attachment 250171
View attachment 250170

Okay so turn your connector upside down, and the pin out from left to right is:

1 - Blank
2 - Blank
3 - Horn (Blue)
4 - Cruise Control (Yellow)
5 - Cruise Control (White)
6 - Cruise Control (Pink)
7 - Ground (Grey)
8 - Blank
9 - Audio Controls (Brown)
10 - Audio Controls (Purple)
11 - Illumination Negative (Red)
12 - Illumination Positive (Green)
13 - Blank
14 - Blank
15 - Blank
16 - Paddle Shift + (Yellow)
17 - Paddle Shift - (Black)
18 - Blank
19 - Blank
20 - Blank

It seems they all the wires are where they're supposed to be on this side. Can you send me a picture of the connector from behind the steering wheel? Let me make sure those are in the right place as well.

 

[FlowMix]

Would you show me this 7 color wire that coming out from cruise switch, going to which pin in the connector that in front of the steering wheel?

Okay So Probably Aftermarket Switches And Harness Then. Looks To All Be Connected Properly, The Issues Must Be On The Other Connector Behind The Steering Wheel.

The Pins That Go Into The Connector For The Clockspring From Behind The Steering Wheel Are Reversed On The Connector Inside The Steering Wheel, Which Is Expected, But For Whatever Reason The Pins Also Shift Two Slots To The Right. What A Stupid Design. Let Me Send A Pic Of What I Mean:

I Just Did A Continuity Test Of The Switches And The Wires.

On The Connector In The Steering Wheel, These Are The Slots & Their Function Of The 3 Cruise Control Pins:

Slot 4 - Cruise Control Set/Decel
Slot 5 - Cruise Control Res/Accel
Slot 6 - Cruise Control On/Off

The Cancel Button Uses The Horn Wire So You Don't Have To Worry About That.

So The Updated Pinout Is:
1 - Blank
2 - Blank
3 - Horn (Blue)
4 - Cruise Control Set/Decel (Yellow)
5 - Cruise Control Res/Accel (White)
6 - Cruise Control On/Off (Pink)
7 - Ground (Grey)
8 - Blank
9 - Audio Controls (Brown)
10 - Audio Controls (Purple)
11 - Illumination Negative (Red)
12 - Illumination Positive (Green)
13 - Blank
14 - Blank
15 - Blank
16 - Paddle Shift + (Yellow)
17 - Paddle Shift - (Black)
18 - Blank
19 - Blank
20 - Blank


On The Connector BEHIND The Steering Wheel, These Are The Slots & Their Function For The Same Wires.

1 - Illumination Positive (Green)
2 - Illumination Negative (Red)
3 - Audio Controls (Purple)
4 - Audio Controls (Brown)
5 - Blank
6 - Ground (Grey)
7 - Cruise Control On/Off (Pink)
8 - Cruise Control Res/Accel (White)
9 - Cruise Control Set/Decel (Yellow)
10 - Horn (Blue)
11 - Blank
12 - Blank
13 - Blank
14 - Blank
15 - Blank
16 - Paddle Shift - (Black)
17 - Paddle Shift + (Yellow)
18 - Blank
19 - Blank
20 - Blank

The Colors I Have Typed In Are In Reference To The Color Of The Wires On The Connector Inside The Steering Wheel. Not What They Will Be. They Will Most Likely Be These Colors Here:

Are you able to take a picture of the connector behind the steering wheel and the connector behind the tachometer? I want to see if the wiring is correct on those two as well.

 

[FlowMix]

Below the connector from behind the clockspring, I believe the wiring already correct, I've tested the continuity from the front connector slot 4 - 5 - 6 View attachment 250210

View attachment 250211
If you aware, from my previous picture of the board of cruise control, there was blue wire from the cruise control an I'm not connect it to any slot, I'm not sure what is the function of this wire but it's merge with blue wire from paddle shift connector so I think this is the ground wire for the cruise switch and now I'm trying to switch it with the green wire from slot no 12 - illumination.

At this point of time I'm not sure whether my cruise switch normally functioning or not (still don't know how to test each button function with multimeter).

No Wait! Don't Switch Out The Green For Blue. The Green Wire Is The Negative For The LED's Only. That One Is Supposed To Be Next To The Red Wire. The Blue Wire Is The Ground That The Horn Uses, And That One Is Used By The Cancel Button. The Grey Wire Is Also A Ground, But Seems To Be The Ground For The Cruise On/Off Switch.

You Don't Have To Put The Blue Wire With The Pin Anywhere Because It's Already Grounded To The Steering Wheel Itself, Which Is The Ground Circuit For The Horn, Which Also Already Has A Pin On The Connector As Well. So Just Leave That Pin Loose.

So Basically, You Technically Have 3 Grounds Going Into The Switch, One For The LED's, One For The On/Off Switch & One For The Cancel Button.

The Wires On That Connector Are All Correct And Should Be Left Alone.

The Wires On The Connector Behind The Steering Wheel Look To Be Correct As Well. They Are Different Colors As Well Though. I Think The Colors On The Pin Out I Have Are For North American Made Civics So Disregard The Colors On The Pinout And Use The Colors Of The Wires Installed In Your Car. The Issue Might Be On The Connector By The Tachometer.

Could You Send Me A Picture Of The Connector By The Tachometer?

If Pin 4 Is For Cruise Control Set/Decel, Pin 5 Is For Cruise Control Res/Accel & Pin 6 Is For Cruise Control On/Off On The Connector In The Steering Wheel, Then On The Connector Behind The Steering Wheel Pin 9 Is For Cruise Control Set/Decel, Pin 8 Is For Cruise Control Res/Accel & Pin 7 Is For Cruise Control On/Off.

So Let's Look At It From The Connector Behind The Steering Wheel Now.
The Pins Are:
Pin 7 - Cruise Control On/Off (Green)
Pin 8 - Cruise Control Res/Accel (Blue)
Pin 9 - Cruise Control Set/Decel (Yellow)

On The Connector For The Tachometer, If This Pin Out Below Is Correct For You (Again, I Believe This Is A Pin Out For North American Models)

Then This Is How The Wires Are Supposed To Be On The Tachometer Connector:

The Green Wire Goes To Pin 9, The Yellow Wire Goes To Pin 10 & The Blue Wire Goes To Pin 11.

So The Pin Out For The Cruise Control Wires On The Tachometer Connector Is:
Pin 9 - Cruise Control On/Off (Green)
Pin 10 - Cruise Control Set/Decel (Yellow)
Pin 11 - Cruise Control Res/Accel (Blue)

This Is Hoping That The Wire Stays The Same Color All The Way Up To The Tachometer Connector. If Not, You'll Have To Use A Multi Meter To Make Sure The Wires Are In The Right Spots.

Don't Forget To Send The Picture Of The Tachometer Connector.

 

[FlowMix]

Oh, okay, I'll switch back the blue wire with the green wire. Thank you!

Wire connector behind tacho already correct
View attachment 250213

Yes Please Do, If Not You May Not Be Able To Cancel Cruise Control From The Steering Wheel. You'd Still Be Able To Use The Brake Pedal To Cancel It But Still.

Okay, So Looking At The Tachometer Connector, There Are 4 Wires Run. The Slots They're In Are 9, 10, 11 & 13. The Wires Are Connected Correctly Like You Said, However! I Noticed Something, The Wire In Slot 13 Is For Illumination Negative, And It's The Correct Wire Because On Your Clockspring Connector Behind The Steering Wheel There Is Another Yellow Wire In Slot 2 And It Has The Same Function Which Is Illumination Negative.

You Said You Can't Set The Cruise Right? If The 4 Wires Are Run Correctly On The Tachometer Connector, The Issue More Than Likely Is That The Two Yellow Wires Are Swapped By Accident Probably, So Instead Of The Cruise Control Set/Decel (Yellow) Wire Going To Slot 10 Like It's Supposed To, It's Probably In Slot 13 Which Is Meant For The Illumination Negative (Yellow) Wire & The Illumination Negative (Yellow) Wire Is In Slot 10 Where The Cruise Control Set/Decel (Yellow) Wire Is Supposed To Be.

Try Swapping Those Two And Let Me Know What Happens!

 

[FlowMix]

Hi @FlowMix , I already swap the yellow wire on the connector behind the clockspring, tomorrow I'll give it a try. Hope I can SET the cruise control. I'll give the update soon! 👍

Ah, Swapping Them On The Connector Behind The Clockspring Is Better, The Tachometer Connector Is Generally Harder To Remove The Pins. Alright, Please Let Me Know!

If That Still Doesn't Work There Are Two More Things You Can Try:
-You Can Test The Wires With A Multimeter Going From The Back Of The Clockspring To The Tachometer Connector To Ensure The Color Of The Wire Doesn't Change Somewhere In The Middle
-And Then You Can Also Test The Switch Itself To Confirm That The Wires We Labelled Are Correct By Testing The Trace Between Each Button And The Wires Coming Out Of The Switch.

I Hope It Doesn't Come To That Though!

 

[FlowMix]

Ah, Swapping Them On The Connector Behind The Clockspring Is Better, The Tachometer Connector Is Generally Harder To Remove The Pins. Alright, Please Let Me Know!

If That Still Doesn't Work There Are Two More Things You Can Try:
-You Can Test The Wires With A Multimeter Going From The Back Of The Clockspring To The Tachometer Connector To Ensure The Color Of The Wire Doesn't Change Somewhere In The Middle
-And Then You Can Also Test The Switch Itself To Confirm That The Wires We Labelled Are Correct By Testing The Trace Between Each Button And The Wires Coming Out Of The Switch.

I Hope It Doesn't Come To That Though!

Oh no! Sorry for the late response. Well damn. Question, how fast we're you going when you tried to activate it? On my civic it doesn't let me activate unless I'm going over 25mph (That's About 40/41kmh). Make sure you got up to speed before trying to set it just incase that was the issue.

Okay, I've Circled Which Spots To Check With The Multimeter On Your Switch. Confirm All The Wires Using This.

For the yellow, blue and white wires only one side of the button is supposed to show continuity, not both. I only circled both on the picture because I'm unsure which side is the right side since our switches are different.

If you got a continuity reading on all of the wires with their respective circles then the issue is elsewhere. Next you're gonna have to start checking all the connectors for continuity.

Test the wires from the connector inside the steering wheel with the wires on the connector on the back side of the steering wheel.
To do this, you need to test the following pins for continuity:

From Inside The Steering Wheel To Behind The Steering Wheel:
Pin 4 to Pin 9
Pin 5 to Pin 8
Pin 6 to Pin 7

If you get continuity between these wires, next check the wires from the connector behind the steering wheel to the connector for the tachometer.
To do this, you need to test the following pins for continuity:

From Behind The Steering Wheel To Tachometer:
Pin 7 to Pin 9
Pin 8 to Pin 11
Pin 9 to Pin 10

If you get continuity between these wires as well, next check the wires from the tachometer connector to the LED's on the Tachometer. To do this you'll need to open up your tachometer only if you're comfortable with that. I can't tell you how to test that one yet as I don't have the spare tachometer with me at the moment but if we reach that point I can always do it later.

 

[FlowMix]

No worries, my man. Take your time. I only can do this DIY for couple of hours every evening.

I already did this continuity test you mentioned earlier (on bold below) and the test going well, result is as expected.
From Inside The Steering Wheel To Behind The Steering Wheel:
Pin 4 to Pin 9
Pin 5 to Pin 8
Pin 6 to Pin 7

From Behind The Steering Wheel To Tachometer:
Pin 7 to Pin 9
Pin 8 to Pin 11
Pin 9 to Pin 10

And about the continuity test on the switch, i really appreciate your idea on mark the switch with the wire color and this is the result:
View attachment 250233

I have no idea why each switch connected to two different wire, is it the positive and negative?
And about the back of the board you mark pink and grey color, I tested it and it is correct.

Hmm, I'm not sure why... But, looking at the traces on the motherboard, and including the traces on the underside as well, it looks like those are the correct pathways. See below:

I can understand why the signal from the blue wire goes through more than just the cancel button. It looks like when you press the cancel button it sends the signal through two capacitors (I think) which interrupts the signal that was going through the set/decel button as well as the res/accel button to "cancel" the cruise. As for the yellow wire, I think it's only function is to set the cruise, and when you adjust the speed (accel, decel) it sends signals through the white wire to make the desired adjustment which is why the white goes to both the accel and decel buttons. Can't say why it goes to the cancel button also tho. I could also be completely wrong, I'm just hypothesizing that's all.

I actually did not test all the wires on my switch to see where all the signals went, I only tested what I knew to be true to confirm that the wires were going to the correct buttons. There's a possibility that it's the same on my switches and I'll confirm that when I get home tonight. It's funny because I closed up the switch saying I wouldn't need to test it anymore and here I am going to test it again But I'll let you know as soon as I get home if my switch is the same.

Is it possible maybe the switch is bad? I do see what looks like some corrosion on the board so maybe that's it.

If all the continuity testing from the switch up to the tachometer connector is correct then I'm stumped. The only thing I can assume is a bad cruise control switch or maybe, just maybe, the pinout on your tachometer might be slightly different to accommodate the little screen that tells you what gear you're in because you have paddles. I highly doubt this last bit tho because my tachometer has the cutout and the traces on the board already for that little screen even though my civic did not come equipped with paddles. So I believe our motherboards should be the same as it looks like they just use the same board for all civics (except for special models. Si, CNG, Hybrid, Type R etc) See below:

Don't watch the dirty work station lol

 

[FlowMix]

No worries, my man. Take your time. I only can do this DIY for couple of hours every evening.

I already did this continuity test you mentioned earlier (on bold below) and the test going well, result is as expected.
From Inside The Steering Wheel To Behind The Steering Wheel:
Pin 4 to Pin 9
Pin 5 to Pin 8
Pin 6 to Pin 7

From Behind The Steering Wheel To Tachometer:
Pin 7 to Pin 9
Pin 8 to Pin 11
Pin 9 to Pin 10

And about the continuity test on the switch, i really appreciate your idea on mark the switch with the wire color and this is the result:
View attachment 250233

I have no idea why each switch connected to two different wire, is it the positive and negative?
And about the back of the board you mark pink and grey color, I tested it and it is correct.

Let me start off by saying I was wrong with the speed that it allows you to set a last time. I tested mine again and my civic only let's me set the cruise at 27mph and up. That's about 45kmh? Did you try to set above that speed? If not I'd say try that before anything else.

Okay, so bad news. I tested my cruise control switch again and I don't have the exact same traces as you.

For your switch, the white wire for res/accel goes through all the switches, the yellow wire for set/decel only goes through the set/decel button and the blue wire for cancel goes through the res/accel and cancel buttons. See below:

But on my switch, the white wire for res/accel only goes through the switch for res/accel, the yellow wire for set/decel only goes through the set/decel button and the blue wire for cancel goes through all the switches with the cancel button only having the blue wire go to it and nothing else. See Below:

I think there is an issue with your cruise control switch, it may be faulty. You might not be able to set the cruise because the set/decel button isn't getting a ground maybe? Because the blue wire is technically a ground. What are your thoughts?