[jethroooo]

After researching if wheel spacers were dangerous or not, I found out they are not. Due to some reasons why people find them dangerous was because of the following: Cheap spacers, lack in torquing the studded spacers, no center core, not putting extended studs.

People say that your wheel bearings will get damaged with spacers, that is true, same goes for people who are running aggressive wheel setups on their cars WITHOUT spacers. Our cars came with weak offsets for a reason, same goes with the mugen GPS or even HFP rims for our wheel bearings are designed for those kind of OEM rims.

Also putting wheel spacers on will be your last resort IF you cant find the right specs in rims you wanted (the one want that'll be aggressive) and wanting your wheels to look aggressive but do not have the extra money to sell your current rims.

and the other reason why ppl put them on is to clear out the inner wheel from hitting the struts (if running modified suspension) and also to clear brakes. (evos put them on the clear out their brembos)

The spacers I recommend are the ones that have studs pressed on them already and make sure the spacers you'll be getting have center cores (with the correct sizing you have for your rims, stock is 64.1mm) and as far as for brands I would go for Eibach(Germany), H & R(Germany), Ichiba II (JDM), or Project kics. but make sure they have a CENTER CORE! I cannot stress how important it'll be since theres already enough stress and the amount of friction going onto the studs, with the center core. Wheel spacers are very safe if they are torqued right and have enough threads on the studs. The studs are only in tensile force, not shear. The coefficient of friction between the wheel/spacer/hub is what transfers the power to the ground, not through the studs. As long as you can provide the adequate clamping force safely, the spacers will be perfectly safe.

Without further a due lets get started.

What is needed

-Pair of Spacers (I used 20mm Ichiba II)
-Center core 64.1mm (if spacers did not come with one, please get one for the model spacer you bought)
-Hub Centric Rings (I'm running Aftermarket rims, so I got 64.1mm to 72.62mm)
-Anti-Seize Lubricant (prevents corrosion and permits easy disassembling) Also do not go to Home Depot, which was closer to my house since they might not know what it is, and they do not have it
-Cross Wrench/torque wrench or whatever you use to tighten/untighten your lugnuts.
-Sand paper

What the pressed studded spacers look like with center cores and hubcentric rings

After you jacking up your car, and taking off the wheel. and you can see the rust.

Sand them down first.

and clean it afterwards

next you put the anti-seize lubricants on the studs.

next you put the lugnuts that were included with the spacers ( do NOT use any other lugnuts as to the ones that were provided are made specifically for the spacer)

Torque them to 80lb

added the center core.

added the hub centric ring.

depending on what size youre running. (15mm or lower) you might have to grind off the excess stock studs since they will be interfering with your rims.

or if your rims have room like the one provided, you will not have to grind them.

if youre really going for an aggressive setup, you will have to roll your fenders if you are dropped also.

----
BEFORE

AFTER

Thanks for looking.

------------
04-22-09

Bought another set of Ichiba II spacers but they were 25mm, and was hooked up for $115 OTD.
I decided to take off the 20mm I put on the front and replace them with the 25mm I bought today and went ahead and put the 20mm in the rear.

the HUB ring thats integrated onto the spacer. STOCK SIZING (64.1)

comparison between 25mm and 20mm

Almost 1 inch... roughly

Fronts

Before (20mm)

After (25mm)

Rears

Before

After

Again Thanks again for looking.

 

[jethroooo]

thank you

 

[jethroooo]

nice, did you only install them on the fronts?

yepp. but I'm planning on putting the 20mm i installed in this DIY to my rears since I just picked up 25mms for the fronts since I can push them out 5mm without any problems

looks real nice...thinkin about doing this with my stockers

thanks.

and post pics if you ever do :thumb:

 

[jethroooo]

subbed for future pics of the rear wheels!

i'll probably have them posted by the end of today :thumb:

beast! flush...drop time

flush and being dropped looks really nice.

also running skinny tires (i'm running 215s) will also benefit me from tire tucking and being flush at the same time without having to negative camber a lot

 

[jethroooo]

fantastic! you said the front spacers are 25mm right? are you going to go the same route with the rears? or 20mm?

just moving the 20mm to the rears since my fronts have more gap clearance (from tire to fender) than my rear.

Front has about 1.5 inch gap clearance and rears have 1.25 clearance

 

[jethroooo]

great write-up... You finally got your aggressive offset..

thanks :thumb:

its just the bubble face (non concave) i'm not really happy about, but for the nt03+m's the concavity starts at 9.5 inches in width and thats too much for me. so this setup is okay for me

 

[jethroooo]

Nice DIY. One question though, how does one roll the fenders? And what is rolling them? (my best guess is pulling them away from the car?)

cant really explain at the moment right now.

but heres a quick link i found on how it is.

Technical Articles: Fender rolling/pulling how-to.

any pix of the whole wheel? and some lug pics?

damn just took a pic of my cars stance right now. too lazy to go out and retake pic. I will tomorrow :thumb:

full car pix or ban

hold you horses. :badger:

Great DIY,,,looks sick!!!!!!

Thanks man :thumb:

nice write up. What are the specs on the wheels?

thaaanks.

rim specs are 17x7.5 +40

and now I'm running +15 offset in the front. and +20 in the rear

 

[jethroooo]

^
lol i know...

bump for pics.

located bottom of DIY

 

[jethroooo]

thats so hott..

:wheee:

 

[jethroooo]

Thanks for getting back quick. One other question now. I'm going to be lowering my car, and looking to run a negative 1.5 front and a negative 1.0 camber on my wheels. Do you think rolling will be necessary with the drop? (Dropping on skunk2 lowering springs so roughly 2 inch drop all around.)

Thanks again,

depends on what size rims and tires you have.

I was dropped on skunk2 lowering springs myself back in september and I was only rubbing with my 18HFPs whenever I took a hard turn or drove through a dip

so.... what size is need to make the stock rims do that, or can that not happen?....

it is possible, ive seem DC5s put them on their stockies even with no drop.

There was this one DC5 putting 25mm on his stockies and didnt even have a drop, therefore his tires were sticking out about half an inch out.

spacer sizes depend on if you are dropped,tire size, and rim size.

 

[jethroooo]

stock rim, stock tire size, and skunk2 springs

I believe you can run 20mm safe without rubbing. you can run 25 also to make them look extra flush but I'm not sure if you'll be rubbing on not. if so then you'll have to roll the fenders

sweet diy, i was thinking about buying that same spacer!

I like them :thumb:

sweet... wheres my hub/lug pics?

still havent taken a pic yet...im at my friends shop right now, he said he'll charge you 35 to roll per fender.

 

[jethroooo]

friend can do it 35 per fender... most shops charge 75 to 90 :think:

do you rub in the rear? i rub in the rear... i needa get a camber kit to run some negative camber for the rear

 

[jethroooo]

awesome diy car looks great! but dont wheel spacers distroy wheel bearings? i mean your putting much more stress on them and possibly throwing the suspension geometry way off...

like I said, if you read the beginning/intro section of my DIY. aggressive wheel setups (rims that are flush that do not require spacers) or putting spacers on your wheel does effect the wheel bearing. but its not a biggie if they can be replaced.

some guy on CRSX does it for 100 bucks all around. Theres not much to roll on the civics so he shouldn't base his normal price on our cars..

i was watching them roll my rears today, and that was that much too roll, only the front.

 

[jethroooo]

i only rub going 80 and going over a huge fat ass bump on the freeway.

other than that.. nope. about 3/4 of a finger gap all around.

I'll just tty on this thread since were talking to each other on two threads...lol

i hate the sound of rubbing. thinking of getting ingalls rear camber kit. since I need about 5-10mm of negative camber. you think ingalls would be able to do give me 5-10mm of negtive camber?

 

[jethroooo]

wait what? that was that much to roll?

oops, i meant. there WASNT that much to roll for the rears.

 

[jethroooo]

yeahh I was checking out the ingalls rear camber today and thought I was looking at the wrong ones since I was expecting a camber arm.

and no, my paint didnt chip. depends really on the person who rolls it, the guy that did mine kept increased the roller little by little each time he rolled it until the rears were maxed out rolled. some ppl who roll dont give a damn and just roll what they can, hence the fenders being bulged on one side and cracked paint

 

[jethroooo]

why not bust a rory?

i believe he used a bat and a heat gun?

 

[jethroooo]

lol didnt see his car yet. so his fenders are cracked on all four sides?

 

[jethroooo]

i'll post a pic of a comparison before and after for the rear fenders in a few (photobucket is acting up)

so are you skunk2 camber arms maxed out?

 

[jethroooo]

ooh lol thought you kept your s2 camber arms when I saw them forsale.

what rear camber kit you have?