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Discussion starter · #41 ·
Wow, great write up! There is another thread about TSX brakes but it doesnt address the master cylinder, which is an important component to ensure good pedal feel.

I was wondering if any of you know if I get SS lines for my stock Si brakes and then do the upgrade if the SS lines will fit the new brakes?

Or am I going to have to get SS lines pretty much customized? I just dont want to waste my money.
Thank you!

Your SS Si aftermarket replacement brake lines should work just fine. That's what I have.
You can even use the stock rubber lines without a problem ... unless you are tracking the car.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Where can I find the 6 mm spacers mentioned in the blog entry about installing the TL type S rotors?

Thanks.
Not quite sure ... I never looked for them since I didn't went with that setup.

However ... looking online I was able to find plenty of 6mm spacers. I guess the trick will be to find something small enough that can go behind the rotor.
Don't forget you will need extended studs if you go that route.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
Did you rebuild your calipers? If so where did you get the rebuild kit?
The calipers were already rebuilt when I purchase them. That was the beauty about the set I got (plus they were already painted :)).
But, as far as I know, you can buy the kit from your local Acura dealer - give it a try (if you haven't already).
 
mrNewt:
I'm currently running the TSX calipers/rotors on the track, and I'm satisfied with the level of braking I can achieve. With Hawk DTS-60 pads, I had only a little fade. I have noticed that the outside pads wear faster than the inside pads (any ideas why?), and I did get a small amount of chunking of the pads. After 4 track days, I've noticed that I have already cracked one of the piston dust boots.

Are these problems you ran into with your TSX setup? Would an upgrade to the TL-S setup help (how?)? Are the TL-S rotors larger yet than the TSX rotors? So, just more thermal mass?

Also, with the stock suspension, my tires wore through a part of the plastic wheel well lining... With spacers, I feel like that wear would be pushed out to the metal... any thoughts or experiences? I just upgraded to the HFP suspension, if that matters.

Thanks, and great writeup!
-Mike
 
Discussion starter · #51 · (Edited)
mrNewt:
I'm currently running the TSX calipers/rotors on the track, and I'm satisfied with the level of braking I can achieve. With Hawk DTS-60 pads, I had only a little fade. I have noticed that the outside pads wear faster than the inside pads (any ideas why?), and I did get a small amount of chunking of the pads. After 4 track days, I've noticed that I have already cracked one of the piston dust boots.

Are these problems you ran into with your TSX setup? Would an upgrade to the TL-S setup help (how?)? Are the TL-S rotors larger yet than the TSX rotors? So, just more thermal mass?

Also, with the stock suspension, my tires wore through a part of the plastic wheel well lining... With spacers, I feel like that wear would be pushed out to the metal... any thoughts or experiences? I just upgraded to the HFP suspension, if that matters.

Thanks, and great writeup!
-Mike
Hi Mike,

Truth to be told, even the stock brake setup with some aggressive pads will give you enough power to stop the car. If the ABS is engaged you already reached the limits.
Now, if you race your car a lot, the stock parts won't last long and they need to be serviced more often.

The only reason you would upgrade your calipers is to improve the "wear and tear" of the brake components and for better heat dispersal.
What stops you is the tires. Better tires = better stopping power.

When was the last time you service the calipers? Are you using the TSX rotors as well?
With the TSX setup I never had a problem with the pads not wearing evenly. Maybe the piston is not traveling properly? Were the calipers brand new when you got them or were they used? If they were used, did you service them before installation?

"Chunking" usually happens when the pads are not wear-in properly. Make sure you follow the instructions when wearing-in the pads. Other than that ... don't know to be honest :|.
The DTC60 pads are very aggressive. They will bring a lot of extra heat on your rotors and is normal for the boots to crack. That means service your brakes at least once a year - preferably before winter (if you have winter in your area :)).
I never looked to see if you can find better boots that resist the heat ... maybe that's something you want to look into.
Btw, with these pads, use the heat-shields that comes with them. They do help a little.

Yes, the TL-S calipers are MUCH bigger than the TSX ones. I believe I have a picture to compare them on my DIY. The only reason I've upgraded to them was the turbo that I've recently finished installing (new DIY to come soon :)). The TSX setup would not resist the abuse for too long.

I run the TL-S setup with the same pads you are using and so far I see no wear on the boots. And everything works just fine. The only thing is that the calipers don't looks as nice and shinny anymore. Heat and dust faded the paint a little :|.

As for the wearing of the wheel well plastics, usually on stock suspension, a good alignment with some negative camber will take care of that.
I run Skunk Pro-c with a decent drop and got the same issues (with good alignment and some camber). I've end up removing the plastics and roll the fenders just a little bit. No more problems.

I'm glad you enjoyed my DIY! :)
 
Like I said, it only took 4 track days from when I did a full caliper rebuild until when I saw the boots cracked again. As you say, I had the stopping power, but that came along with these other issues.

Thanks for the advice on the chunking. I'll admidt that I probably didn't follow the instructions to the T... Can anyone else back that up (chunking caused by improper bed-in), as I've never heard that before?

As for the uneven wear... it's both sides of the car, doing the same thing (also same on street pads and track pads). I don't think the piston is at fault, but I bet the sliding pins are slightly binding... hmm I thought those were pretty free. Regardless, the TL-S setup eliminates the sliding pins from the design completely. Having 4 independent pistons (theoretically) improves the wear evenness.

In the end, I think I'll probably make the dive to the TL-S setup for the increased thermal mass (same reason for TSX upgrade). It will be a nice project for this winter :)

I wouldn't expect paint to hold up well at the temps we're pushing the braking system to... Thanks for the response!

-Mike
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
4 track days for a "stock" component exposed to a lot of "extra" heat generated by your brake pads ... especially if the track requires heavy braking ... is A LOT! :). I'm not surprised the boots cracked.

Regarding the uneven wear, my only suggestion is to remove everything and make sure they work/slide properly. Add some grease if needed. Uneven wear shouldn't be normal.

The brakes will "chunk" if they are not wear-in properly. I thought everyone knew about this!? I bet you just put them on and went for it :) - be honest :).

:badger:
 
As I understood it, the break-in process for pads establishes the proper surface layer on the rotor with respect to the pad material for maximum friction potential. (heard that from multiple sources)

I actually did perform a fairly good break-in of those pads, with the only slacking being that I didn't take it up to the true race speeds (110mph) for 5 stops... I substituted 70mph for 8 stops. So it was pretty close. I've heard that engaging the ABS can cause chunking, but again, I haven't had much confirmation on that theory either.

-Mike
 
Believe Newt said you can source most of the parts needed from the 2008 model year TL-S earlier in this thread. I would assume: 08 TL-S calipers = 08 TL-S BMC
 
ok so did a quick search and the 06, 07 accord's use the same one. Does it matter if it's used or new? is it a wear and tear item.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
As long as is in good working order it should be OK.
I would advise to check and double check - on old ones seals might need to be replaced.
 
^ so are you saying i can't use the accord ones? they have the same part number.
 
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