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getting read to put k24 short block in my fg2 want to know if any problems came about and comfirmed info on the passenger side mount. do you have to use a crv mount??
 

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you need the block-to-mount bracket for the crv for the passenger side, then you use your oem top bracket and attach it to the mount on the frame.

also, just how are you going to tune this since there are zero options available to us?????

-you'll need an rsx type-s pump.
-if you use a k24a1 you dont need to machine the raised surface on the block, if you use the a4, you need to machine it where the pump mounts.
-you need to buy the oil pressure relief hole plug that comes on the rsx to plug the oem bleeder hole on the k24 block.
-you need the complete front cover assembly including timing chain, auto tensioner, chain guides and chaion cover off the k24 since it is much taller.
-the crank angle sensor from your z3 needs to be put into the k24 block since the plugs are different.
-you need a k24/k20 hybrid headgasket because it aligns the water jackets much better.
-if you used the head bolts over or the original motor blew, you need new bolts(or i recommend GE head studs).
-you also need to switch the oil pan from your k20 block to the 24 for the rear mount.
-you have to switch the "oil cooler sandwich" over onto the k24 block & bore/tap a hole for the water inlet on the k24 block.

-i cant remember if thats basically all the major stuff but i'm pretty sure it is. Its been a while since my last k24 swap..LOL
 

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I have the K24A4 sitting here.. I just got the short block back last week. I am going to use stock FA5 Mounts...Im putting it into a FA5...i have a stock head for a 06 si ( Z3 ) and that has the holes for top mount but I have the CRV bracket. I dont know how its going to fit... from the looks of things its just a bolt in change.. There was a guy who said he did it but he never had pics...I changed the Pistons (JE 12.2 to 1), Rods (Pauter), all ARP bolts-head studs, and RSX Oil Pump.. Crapload of machine work to make this fit.. plus had the crank polished and knifed.. everything blurprinted and ballanced... So Next is the head... I am going to have port flow go through it.. Del-West ti valves... ti locks and retainers.. springs.. plus a port and polish job from port flow and I have a stock manfold that was extrude honed.. so thats my plan.. but like I said it looks like a bolt in deal.. the block is like 6mm taller form what i was told by other people.. i dont see it but the mounts look in the right place so.... I know the head is going to take 2-3 months so I am in no hurry to do a thing with the motor right now... just wait... and pray for 260WHP.....ohh im also going to try the large IPS cams... but I am already looking into the greddy , Motec, or AEM stand alone.. so far the Greddy looks to be the set up that will keep the car working like stock.. guess we will see what hondata can come up with in the next few months
 

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also, just how are you going to tune this since there are zero options available to us?????
Thats got to be the biggest load of bull I have ever heard. Wake up and smell what you are shoveling. Maybe there is zero economically viable options as far as Hondata solutions are concerned, but Hondata is not the be all end all solution either.

At the very least VTEC and AFR can be tuned with various piggyback systems. Emanage ultimate, Apexi AFC NEO, perhaps the Vmanage can be adapted.

Hasport installed a K20Z3 in the fit and utilize KPro ECU to run the engine, and retain the stock ecu for AC and dash function. I dont see why something couldn't be adapted for our platform. I'd be to wager willing there is something like this in the works for us.

If you really wanted to run Kpro you could convert back to cable throttle and do custom guages
 

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^^^^ Dont forget X's intake :) You can adjust the AFR by a modding the MAF housing too.

Why all the work tho? I mean the dealer is gonna be like, ummm.....................no, if you have to bring it in for work. Dont get me wrong this is a very good idea if your building a race car w/ 800 HP but for a 90 HP gain? Just slap a blower on it and call it a day :p.
 

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I love the thought of a swap but I have to agree with Tastycakes a Comptech Supercharger is going to put you in the same arena. I guess the goals are differant though, lots of info in this thread though.
 

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Thats got to be the biggest load of bull I have ever heard. Wake up and smell what you are shoveling. Maybe there is zero economically viable options as far as Hondata solutions are concerned, but Hondata is not the be all end all solution either.

At the very least VTEC and AFR can be tuned with various piggyback systems. Emanage ultimate, Apexi AFC NEO, perhaps the Vmanage can be adapted.

Hasport installed a K20Z3 in the fit and utilize KPro ECU to run the engine, and retain the stock ecu for AC and dash function. I dont see why something couldn't be adapted for our platform. I'd be to wager willing there is something like this in the works for us.

If you really wanted to run Kpro you could convert back to cable throttle and do custom guages
LOL..
go ahead and tune your k24 swap with a super afc-> obviously the "Tuning" aspect means nothing to you. http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8857

you can have your car Bi-wired for split ecu's by hondata, you could also say screw the k24 and just put in a 4g63 motor and have your car wired for a mitsubishi!

what you say is immature. yes its POSSIBLE IN THIS WORLD, but viable and realistic for everyday users who dont even know if the motor will fit in their car?!?!?! ...........NO
- but dont listen to me, i've only been there and done that......
 

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this has also been done by a guy on honda-tech who said he was very disappointed with the results because of tuning options, and then sold the car.
 

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Is a frankenstine K24 block Z3 head combo even going to make huge power over a built K20Z3 in the first place? Id probably want to wait for an ecu thatd completely tunable for a built motor than to try and run it off simple A/F and VTEC piggybacks.
 

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^my point exactly, as for nighthawks post, they will not make the power they should. the stock a1/z3 i put in a rsx-s with k-pro made 231 whp with his intake/exhaust. just goes to show how much of a difference there is in making something "work" or having it done right. you guys need to be patient instead of trying to weasel your way around things.
 

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207..........................

yup, 207 peak, but thats not all that counts. anywhere above 4k rpm there is a 20 hp difference, and 207 peak is about 30 hp over stock.....not to mention teh torque gained. if a person can DIY to save on install and get a good price for a CRV block (whcih shouldnt be much anyway), this is a good bump in HP for the price.
 
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