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Discussion Starter #1
So I've got basically all the bolt ons... I'm making pretty good power with my 08 si
1320 race headers
Injen sri
Throttle body spacer with thermal gasket
Vibrant 2.5 catback
Flashpro
Tune by Steve @etunez
So my question is what's next? Was thinking cams but not really sure what to get. True dic would be cool but then I know I'm going to want more eventually. So I might as well upgrade the valve train. Any advice or thoughts welcome...
 

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NA power is brutal on the wallet, keep that in mind. And we can't just up the boost so... remember this.

I'm assuming you have a SI here, so if you have an R18 disregard this post. Also assuming you'll be staying NA.

I'm not a fan of short ram intakes, as they tend to heat soak very badly. I'd strongly think about putting the stock intake back on, selling your SRI, and getting a 3.5" cold air intake(Hybrid Racing, Skunk2, Rickspec)

Throttle body spacer and thermal gasket are solid, can't go wrong with them.

The 1320 race header is a good performer and you shouldn't need to upgrade it unless the car is essentially race only.

The vibrant 2.5" catback is a choking point on your engine, not a ton but still not helpful. 3" exhausts are proven time, and time again to consistently make more hp/tq over anything smaller.

Flashpro, best choice you've made in your mods. Glad to see you have it, it's a wonderful tool.

What's next? (least to most HP on average)
-Velocity stack on your intake [Increase air velocity... mo hp]
-J35 or larger throttle body [only consider this AFTER cams, otherwise its between 0-5hp gain]
-RSX-S/RRC oil pump [no balance shafts frees up some HP, and they can rev higher safely]
-Ported Intake Manifold [Port out your RBC intake manifold and it'll flow comparably to an RRC. RRC are 400+ USD...]

From that point on, things get much bigger, and much more expensive.
-Cams [So many... stick with recognized companies. Drag Cartel, Prayoonto, 4Piston, etc]
-Pistons [Increase in compression ups horsepower. Also lets you run more cam.]
-Bore [increases displacement. can also help flow more cfm out of the cylinder head by deshrouding the valves]
-Stroke [more displacement, tends to be more torque biased]
-k24 swap [more displacement, increase from bore and stroke. Lets you use more aggressive cams as well]
-Ported cylinder head [cylinder head is where the power is made... more flow is more power]

Down and dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks bored nord . Love the input. I've strayed from the cold air intake because I've heard of them getting soaked with water from the road and such. If I ended up going 3" on the exhaust that would mean changing my headers because they come to a 2.5" collector. How much do you really think I would gain from a 3" exhaust and a cai?
 

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Thanks bored nord . Love the input. I've strayed from the cold air intake because I've heard of them getting soaked with water from the road and such. If I ended up going 3" on the exhaust that would mean changing my headers because they come to a 2.5" collector. How much do you really think I would gain from a 3" exhaust and a cai?
Water ingestion could possibly be a problem, yes... However, that's why any cold air intake I'll be running will have a bypass valve for this just in case situations. I've run the Hybrid Racing cold air intake for over a year here in Washington state, one of the wetter places in the U.S. and even going through dicey puddles, I haven't had an issue.

1320 doesn't have an adapter for a 3" exhaust? Seems a little strange to me... Some exhaust may have a 3" adapter with them, just be sure to read the descriptions.

I think going from a tuned 2.5", to a tuned 3" will net you anywhere between 5-10 horsepower. More if you build the support mods, less with less mods. The K series motors flow a TON of air, so breathing modifications are very effective. Their cylinder head design is top notch as far as flow, so take advantage with it by letting the engine exhale freely.

Financially worth going from 2.5" to 3"? That's up to you. Knowing I could sell the 2.5 on my car would make buying the 3 less painful, but that's just my point of view and situation speaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks bored nord . Love the input. I've strayed from the cold air intake because I've heard of them getting soaked with water from the road and such. If I ended up going 3" on the exhaust that would mean changing my headers because they come to a 2.5" collector. How much do you really think I would gain from a 3" exhaust and a cai?
Ya I think I'll be doing both of those things soon enough. Cai and 3" exhaust. What do you think of the skunk 2 cai?

Water ingestion could possibly be a problem, yes... However, that's why any cold air intake I'll be running will have a bypass valve for this just in case situations. I've run the Hybrid Racing cold air intake for over a year here in Washington state, one of the wetter places in the U.S. and even going through dicey puddles, I haven't had an issue.

1320 doesn't have an adapter for a 3" exhaust? Seems a little strange to me... Some exhaust may have a 3" adapter with them, just be sure to read the descriptions.

I think going from a tuned 2.5", to a tuned 3" will net you anywhere between 5-10 horsepower. More if you build the support mods, less with less mods. The K series motors flow a TON of air, so breathing modifications are very effective. Their cylinder head design is top notch as far as flow, so take advantage with it by letting the engine exhale freely.

Financially worth going from 2.5" to 3"? That's up to you. Knowing I could sell the 2.5 on my car would make buying the 3 less painful, but that's just my point of view and situation speaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I just ordered the hybrid racing cai. Thanks for the suggestion. I've never even heard of them until I read your post.
 
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