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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As everybody already knows running meth injection on our cars has been met with a lot of controversy. From what I have read on the forums most people tend to steer clear of meth for one simple reason, Flashpro doesn't offer any lean protection. Should the meth not fire for whatever reason, you can kiss your engine good bye. What cannot be disputed is the benefits meth offers. With meth injection, intake air temps can be drastically lowered, octane levels can be raised depending on the mixture and more timing can be added, thus making more power, all things a forced induction car can benefit from, especially a supercharged car. Since Flashpro really offers no protection whatsoever, most of us have been missing out on the benefits of water meth.

So here's where I am getting at, over the summer I built my motor, I raised the compression to 11.7:1. The car is aftercooled, but because of detonation we have had to pull a significant amount of timing, making pump gas almost useless. I have been running solely on E85. Running around like crazy for E85 (it isn’t readily available in my area, I have to drive 50 minutes to get it) got me thinking about running water/meth. I have been researching this since I started building my car about a year ago. I kept running into the same thing, it isn’t safe. Which got me thinking, there has to be a way to run meth without switching to a standalone ecu. Turns out I was right. I stumbled across a forum for mustangs, specifically supercharged mustangs. These guys were having the same issue we are. They wanted the benefits of meth but were had no fail safes. A gentleman on that forum designed and brought to market a standalone box called the MDracing Lean Protection module with great success. They can even be implemented in nitrous applications.

How it works:
The MDracing lean protection box is a quite simple but brilliant design. The module wires into the TPS, ignition, and wide band sensors. The boxes microprocessor determines whether the car is in WOT through the TPS and then reads the AFR from the wideband output, if the AFR goes any leaner than the user defined AFR the car will cut ignition in milliseconds thus saving the motor. In other words if the meth doesn't fire, the car shuts down. The driver can then lift his foot off the gas, reengage the peddle and the engine will fire up once more. If the box senses a lean condition it will continue to kill ignition until the desired AFR is met. This unit has already saved countless engines in the Ford community and is something I thought may interest everyone. it sure interested me. I have a fully built motor, ported blower and, built head and I still want more power, if this box works out as planned, nitrous may be in the near future.
Over the next few days I will be installing my water/meth kit and the MDracing lean protection module, I will update this post with pictures and create a DIY for anyone else interested in using this.
 

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Excited for an update! That's a nice set up! Love to see more pics of your whip:hitit:

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Excited for an update! That's a nice set up! Love to see more pics of your whip:hitit:

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Thank you! I'm gonna update this week. Did the install over the weekend and everything came out great. Excited to tune. For as cheap as the box is I figured there would be some intrest on here. It has way more potential than in just superchargers and water/meth.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Update

We ended up placing the module inside of the glove box. To run the wires to the bay we utilized the rubber grommet located on the passenger side firewall. Access to the grommet can be had by removing the glove box. The glove box is held in place by two 8mm bolts located directly under the glove box, once these bolts are removed simply open the glove box by pulling the latch.



The wires that need ran to the engine bay are as follows from the 6 wire harness; Red +12 Volt, Yellow TPS, Black directly to battery, the White, Green and Blue wires on this harness must remain in the vehicle as the will wire into the wideband and remote LED. From the 3 wire harness only the Red and Yellow wires will be ran into the bay. All of the stated wires can be ran through the passenger side grommet. We wrapped the wires in a piece of rubber hose to prevent any chaffing.

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Here is a picture of all the wires in the bay. The Red and Yellow wire from the three harness will be wired into the under hood fuse box, specifically, the ignition wire. The yellow wire from the six wire harness will be wired into the TPS voltage output wire.

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After choosing a location for the module and running the wires you now have to remove the under hood fuse box. This is relatively simple, slide it up off of the metal brackets and the box will pull apart. You want to locate the second connecter in the picture and remove it to gain access to the wires.

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Once removed the you will locate the blue and silver speckled wire, this is the ignition positive. It feeds the coil packs, this is the wire the lean protection module will interrupt when it detects a lean event.

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Once located you want to cut this wire, leave enough room to work. You are either going to solder or use butt connectors to splice in the red and yellow wire from the 3 wire harness.

Once these wire are cut you will connect the Red wire to the blue wire coming out of the connector. You will connect the Yellow wire to the blue wire going into the loom.

the orange wire is for custom setups, we simply rolled it up and set it to the side.

Now for the six wire harness. The red wire on this harness must be wired into 12 volt switched source. It must be hot both during crank and while running. Here is a picture of the source we used in the under hood fuse box, it is the third slot up and is empty. We used an add a fuse kit from Advanced Auto.

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The black wire in this harness will be ran directly to the battery, we achieved this by crimping on a eyelet connector and removing the 10mm bolt on the negative battery post and simply bolting it on.

The Yellow wire on the six wire harness will be ran to the Red and Black wire located in the throttle bodies electrical connector. The red and black wire is the voltage output, the module will need this input to determine when you are in WOT. It will only activate when it sense a WOT and lean condition combined. This keeps the box from triggering under light load. As pictured you will carefully peel the wires sheathing back and solder the Yellow wire in. IN THE PICTURE YOU WILL SEE A PURPLE WIRE, WE SIMPLY EXTENDED THE WIRE AS IT WAS NOT LONG ENOUGH.

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We now need to tap into the widebands analog output wire. On mine (AEM) it is the white wire. You want to do the same thing you did on the TPS wire, peel it back and tap it in. The module uses this to determine you AFR. If you go leaner than the AFR you define, ignition is cut.

The only thing now is to locate a place for the remote LED, this LED triggers in the even of a lean condition, providing visual feedback so that you don't freak out when your motor shuts off! lol. Here is where I ran mine. The green and white wire on the six wire harness wire to the LED.

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Once you wire the light in you're done. The tuning on this is relatively easy. You will probably want to set it to trigger a few AFR points below you target AFR. if your target AFR is 11.8 then start by setting the trigger point at 11.8, do some pulls, it should shut down at WOT, start working back in .2 increments until you can do consecutive WOT pulls with out ignition cut. Then your done!
 
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