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Turbo 08 NHBP FG2

243 views 13 replies 2 participants last post by  20strong  
#1 · (Edited)
Been a long time since a frequented the forums. Figured I would start me up a build thread. I don't always have a ton of money to buy super nice stuff. So I rely on good deals, and modifying cheap stuff to suit my needs.
I learned how to tig weld, and mig weld via YouTube, so don't expect super awesome beads. But so far I don't have any leaks, or broken welds so I'll call it a win.
The only part of this build that was not personally done in my garage, was decking the cylinder head.

I have never really kept track of the modifications. So this is also kinda for me to keep track, and accumulate the list as I remember the build over the last 3 years.

2008 NHBP FG2
4" Fender flares, cut 1.5" out of the quarter panel and front fenders, and moved a portion of the firewall to clear the turning radius.
18x10.5 +25mm Motegi Battle V with 315/30-18 Falken RT615K's
K-Tuned K2 coil overs, lower control arms, valve cover, 4bar map sensor, iat sensor adapter.
Rotara 13" 4 piston bbk with custom rotor disks.
EBC slotted and dimpled rear rotors
Heavily modified Full-Race 3" exhaust.
Heavily modified CX Racing exhaust kit, 3" downpipe, custom wastegate dump tube.
Tial style wastegate, and bov
Gen2 gt35 clone turbo
Frozen boost water to air intercooler
Custom 3" charge piping
Koyo heat exchanger
Bosch SLR water pump
Skunk2 stage 2 cams, valves, ported intake manifold, throttle body, tb adapter, composite fuel rail, titanium retainers, beehive springs, shift knob, oil cap, 2 radiator caps, valve seals.
Mishimoto radiator and fans.
Grams 1000cc injectors, fuel pressure regulator.
Racetronix 10an fuel lines both hard and soft.
Walbro 340
Modified stock fuel pump hanger
MSD K24 ignitioncoils
Hasport engine mounts
Boomba front engine mount
Amazon oil cooler, heavily modified and ported oil filter relocation kit, all plumbed with Racetronix 10an lines.
Hybrid racing timing chain tensioner, radiator hoses.
Cometic head gasket
ARP head studs
Ported and polished cylinder head, 5 degree valve job, bronze guides, decked 10 thousands.
D. I. D Timing chain
Drag cartel timing chain guide
Siebon carbon fiber hood and spoiler, lightly painted in NHBP with a stripe. It's pretty cool you can just make out the carbon through the paint.
FD2 Seats
AEM Afr and boost Guages.
Flashpro race
3 port ebc valve
Motion raceworks vacuum distribution block.
Blox subframe hard collar kit
Bull boost silicone vacuum lines
Weather tech floor mats
TWM Shifter assembly, and bushings.
DND Alcantara dished steering wheel, NRG SFI approved quick release and hub.
Alpine ILX-W670 head unit, Scar audio 6.5" door speakers and 8" sub, powered by Hifonics amps, wired with Knuconcepts wiring. Tons of sound deadening.

More to follow.
 

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#4 · (Edited)
Next up was to make some repairs, and replace an old battery relocation mount I diy'ed way back when. I've been modifying this car since like 2012.
I also replaced the Skunk2 timing chain tensioner with a hybrid racing tensioner. Then installed a new steering wheel to give it a nicer feel inside and make it easier to get in and out of without mangling the seat.
Had to clean up and paint the frame rail so it looked nice and clean in the engine bay.
 

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#7 · (Edited)
Stripped and painted the valve cover, and attached some 10an bungs with jb weld (didn't have a welder yet) painted it and the intake. Also got the MSD k24 coils installed, and the Skunk2 composite fuel rail.
My buddy got me some k24 coil plugs at the pick and pull, they are a lot smaller than the k20 plug.
 

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#10 · (Edited)
Thank you. 265s are maximum without cutting, in my opinion.

Changed out the cracked tail lights, and sizing up the turbo. Getting an idea how much will have to move. Turns out it's a lot! I also was pretty set on doing a water to air set up. In hindsite the different factor was the only good reason.
 

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#13 ·
Cut the 4 bolt flange off the down pipe, and welded on a vband, ground down the lumpy welds inside the header for better air flow. Wrapped them both with dei titanium heat wrap. I used 24 Guage nichrome wire to keep the wrap nice and tight.
 

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#14 · (Edited)
Started applying sound deadening material to the chassis. Trying to get that nice solid sound when you close doors and trunk. I applied it to the quarter skin, doors, lots and lots of it. Also got the engine back in, and started mocking up the charge piping.
My first real goat welding aluminum, it was easy/hard. Definitely not stacking dimes. But I'm getting better.
 

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