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Discussion Starter #1
OK my check engine light came on today, so i scan it and p0172 trouble code come's up syetems to rich (bank1) then i view freeze data:

dtc that caused freeze frame P0172
throttle position 15.2%
engine rpm 2792 rpm
barometric pressure 98 kpa
load value 38.0%
air flow rate 20.70 gr/sec
map sensor 21 kpa
coolant temp 159`f
intake air temp 82`f
ignition timing adv 34.5 deg
short term fuel trim1 -20.2%
long term fuel trim1 -20.2%
short term fuel trim3 -33.0%
long term fuel trim3 -33.0%
vehicle speed 24mph
absolute load value 33.0%
fuel system1 clsd
fuel system 2 n/a
ralative throttle position 4.7%
commanded throttle actuator control 4.7%
absolute throttle position b 32.1%
accelerator pedal position d 20.0%
accelerator pedal position e 9.8%
commanded evap purge 0.0%
commanded equivalence ratio 0.999
fuel level input 100.0%
control module voltage 14.150 v
time since engine start 04:29 m:s
any help with this would be great.
 

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not sure man.. i wish i could help.. is the car still running right?
you should just reset the code and see if it comes back. if it doesnt i wouldnt worry too much

good luck though.. i hope everything is ok
 

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Discussion Starter #4
WELL, today on my way to work i kept hearing this bird,whistling noise. so when the car is in N and i rev it when the needle drops to about 1700rpm the bird noise quiety maybe 1 sec happens, now if i'm driving 1,2,3,4,and i leave it in gear and let the engine rev down, when the needle get to about 2200rpm the whistling happens and stays whisling to about 900 -1000rpm. it only happens when i let off the gas, it never happens when i'm on the gas. so at work i pop the hood and look, a co-worker gets in and rev's the engine the noise is coming from the intake cone. so i take it off and it still happens when the cone is off.

WHAT GIVE?
DOES ANYONE KNOW WHY IT WOULD BE WHISTLING FRON THE INTAKE?
 

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Do you run pump or race? You may want to run a lower octane...others chime in. It sounds as if the fuel isn't burning quick enough or you could retard your timing a bit. The higher the octane the slower the burn.

If the filter is off it will suck in hella air...too much infact that it will fall on its face.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i just went to the store and on my way back gave it some gas and when i hit around 3500rpm it starts to sound like a whine sound after a few blocks the check engine light and vsa came on scan for codes and p0101 maf or vaf a ckt range/perf
any help!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
dtc that caused freeze frame P0172* with code p0101

throttle position 15.2% * 78.8%
engine rpm 2792 rpm * 4480rpm
barometric pressure 98 kpa* 98 kpa
load value 38.0% * 100.0%
air flow rate 20.70 gr/sec * 124.66 gr/sec*
map sensor 21 kpa * 99kpa
coolant temp 159`f * 208`f
intake air temp 82`f * 132`f
ignition timing adv 34.5 deg * 28.0 deg
short term fuel trim1 -20.2% * 0.0%
long term fuel trim1 -20.2% * -16.1%
short term fuel trim3 -33.0% * -33.0%
long term fuel trim3 -33.0% * -33.0%
vehicle speed 24mph * 59mph
absolute load value 33.0% * 140.0%
fuel system1 clsd * open1
fuel system 2 n/a * n/a
ralative throttle position 4.7% * 92.5%
commanded throttle actuator control 4.7% * 100.0%
absolute throttle position b 32.1% * 82.7%
accelerator pedal position d 20.0% * 94.5%
accelerator pedal position e 9.8% * 46.6%
commanded evap purge 0.0% * 0.0%
commanded equivalence ratio 0.999 * 0.847
fuel level input 100.0% * 23.3%
control module voltage 14.150 v * 13.950v
time since engine start 04:29 m:s * 5:41 m:s
any help with this would be great.
 

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Who installed the kit? If you had a shop install the kit I would ask for there help. I found out that the Civic's has a base code; like mine codes on P0135. Blueroadster helped me also diag another issue that was more than base scanners could read to help with my issues. If you have a buddy that works at Honda by chance, I would ask him to hook it up to there system.
 

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Is your filter still attached? I had a problem with that minus i'm not FI. How ever galaxy is correct, the fuel trims are FUBAR'd. What injectors are you running? Will it idle okay?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK! So i'm done found out what the hell is going on (i think :laughing: ) i check fuel pressure GOOD, then i checked all pipes GOOD then i just changed all vac and boost line so i kno there good. so..... what could be the problem then that is causing all it headache -bov the piston is opening and staying open and is not closing all the way hard soft it just ain't working so is anyone else having this problem GREDDY RS since i disconnected the bov car been running fine:thumb:
WHAT BOV IS EVERYONE RUNNING WITH THE GREDDY KIT AND NOT HAVING PROBLEMS
 

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lol I was getting ready to suggest the BOV. In vws when the diverter valve goes out it will sound like a duck. as to where blow offs sound like littel birdies. Some crazy stuff if you ask me....but dont.
 

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EX-SRT-4 said:
OK! So i'm done found out what the hell is going on (i think :laughing: ) i check fuel pressure GOOD, then i checked all pipes GOOD then i just changed all vac and boost line so i kno there good. so..... what could be the problem then that is causing all it headache -bov the piston is opening and staying open and is not closing all the way hard soft it just ain't working so is anyone else having this problem GREDDY RS since i disconnected the bov car been running fine:thumb:
WHAT BOV IS EVERYONE RUNNING WITH THE GREDDY KIT AND NOT HAVING PROBLEMS
I'm running a Turboxs BOV with zero problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Maybe i just got a bad one i was going to get another RS cause i allready got the flange welded on the pipe but i was thinking of going with HKS
 

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I'm using the greddy rs bov, but I adjusted the hardness of the valve and dont seem to throwing a check engine light. also, I order an anti-stall module for the valve which should correct the problem if it still exist.

dave
 
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