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Discussion Starter #1
well i hit the 5k mark and changed the oil and filter, changed the mtf, and rotated my tires. it was a good day
what i used...
amosil series2000 0w30 (engine)
amsoil syncromesh (tranny)
amsoil eao13 (oil filter)

first, the oil filter is a PITA!!! i expected it to be tight from the factory but geez. with the passenger tire off i tried my hand with no luck. went to kragens and took a spare filter i had. found a perfect oil filter wrench. the kind that goes on the end of the filter and you put a ratchet in and your good to go. well of course theres a heatshield around the oil filter and i couldnt get the wrench to go on far enough. at this point im pretty irritated. i finally decided to do the screwdriver trick. figured it would be the one time mess due to factory over-tightening and id be good for future changes. boy was it stubborn! after 4 holes in the filter i had it off

put the new filter on, filled up the motor and on to the mtf change. very very easy...

impressions-the SI just like the 2 other cars i have ran amsoil in loved it! car was a tad quieter, rev'd more smoothly, and now when i bang gears at 8000 rpm i know shes proteceted the big difference was the mtf. like most others my tranny was also over filled. i would estimate by a good 1/3 of a qt. after driving with the new amsoil mtf for 200 miles i can say that shifts are like butter. the general notchiness i had with the tranny is virtually gone. rev matched downshifts are now even sweeter. all gears feel much more direct and "click-clack" if you will. i have the twm ss w/ cable bushings. i loved the setup but i wasnt really happy with the tightness and random notchiness. i think the tranny being over filled led to some of the problem and the amsoil took care of the rest. i noticed similar positive results when i switched the factory mtf out in my 4x4 tacoma to amsoil.

sorry for the long reading but hope this is some good info for someone.
 

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Nice work. I have the same fluid setup except I went for the 5W-30 Amsoil instead of the 0W-30. Figured I'd run the 0W-30 in the cold Minnesota winter here. Haven't changed the oil filter myself yet, and not looking forward to it. Have you noticed it's harder to put the car into 1st with the Amsoil MTF or am I just nuts? All the other gears engage much easier but sometimes my car just isn't smooth going into 1st. And I'm talking at a stop.
 

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Changing oil in teh Si sucks. I have to change mine this weekend and I'm not looking forward to it. At least I got that damned factory filter off which was tight as HELL, so it should not be toooooo bad.
 

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Scrodums
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How was the oil from the factory when you drained it? I noticed a lot of metal shavings in mine. Also, I agree with the oil filter. It almost feels like someone used an impact gun to put that thing on. I’m also rocking the Amsoil setup, motor oil and MTF. Great combo.
 

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+1 to the oil filter. Man, that thing was a b**** the first time. Second change was a breeze thank God.

MetalTark said:
Nice work. I have the same fluid setup except I went for the 5W-30 Amsoil instead of the 0W-30. Figured I'd run the 0W-30 in the cold Minnesota winter here. Haven't changed the oil filter myself yet, and not looking forward to it. Have you noticed it's harder to put the car into 1st with the Amsoil MTF or am I just nuts? All the other gears engage much easier but sometimes my car just isn't smooth going into 1st. And I'm talking at a stop.
Funny you should bring up first gear. My friend changed his about a month ago and I saw him last week and he said he was having major problems getting his car into first. I wonder if the MTF has something to do with it? I have yet to switch to the Amsoil.. I get the occassional 3rd gear wall, but that's about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
now that the factory oil filter is off i expect changes to be a breeze from here on out.

as for 1st go i havent noticed anything cuz of the MTF change. but i think its been mentioned a few times before on the 8th. every now and then (for me very randomly) the stick is stubborn to get into 1st. say your at a red light and you go from neutral to 1st...sometimes you gotta re-clutch of try a 2nd time and even then its not the smoothest transition.

as for the oil it wasnt too bad. i also had quite a few metal shavings floating around but that was too be expected.

:vtec:
 

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my oil filter wasnt on that bad, came off easily without removing my right wheel.... my engine oil took me less time than the tranny fluid (less messy too!)
 

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+1 for the oil filter being a PITA. If you've had the dealer change your oil once you should be fine w/o a wrench. But right from the factory.. man.. impact gun is right!
 

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Scrodums
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I would highly recommend anyone doing oil changes at the dealership to mark their filters. Something like painters tape or duct tape will suffice. That way you'll know whether or not they've changed the filters on these things.
 

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I'm going to be hitting 5000 KM soon and my dad always said that I should get an oil change at 5000 KM. I'm going to go with Mobil1 any what do u guys think?
 

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Good stuff...I am looking to change out my MTF as well, but am thinking of having a go with the Honda MTF, and change to amsoil if needed.
 

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I've been an AMSOIL dealer for I think 6 years now. Something like that.

My advice to anyone wanting to switch to AMSOIL and is under warranty is this.

#1 Keep a log of oil changes. Write it in the owners manual if need be.
#2 Keep receipts to prove that's what you used
#3 DO NOT EXCEED THE LONGEST FACTORY RECOMMENDED DRAIN INTERVAL

Now I have no doubt in my mind that AMSOIL can easily do the 15k mile intervals in most cars. With bypass filters they can easily do the 25k mile intervals. I've seen plenty of used oil analysis results to confirm it.

However, if you are under warranty your first and most important job is to keep your warranty intact and give them no reason to try to void it.

Let me break it down like a fraction for you.

You're driving along, all of a sudden, BAM! Your camshaft snaps in half.

Now, if you've never ran extended intervals, Honda fixes, no problem. Life's okay.

The flip side of that coin. You've been running extended drains, the dealer knows this from your log or asks you, etc. Suddenly, they're denying the claim and blaming the oil. Well, it wasn't the oil's fault. So you call AMSOIL (or Mobil1 now....they have a warranty too) and obviously AMSOIL says, "Sounds like a bad casting to us..." and denies your claim.

Suddenly, you're buying parts on your own.

After the warranty? Run 10k to 12k intervals, or 15k if you do a used oil analysis once in a while.

Also, leave the factory oil in the vehicle until your first scheduled oil change. No need to drain that stuff out early. Last I knew (and I'd have to check on it since it's been 3 or 4 years) Honda used a special "break-in" oil at the factory. It was loaded with moly.

Just friendly advice.

For my Ford boards I always recommend people using Motorcraft 5w20 and Motorcraft filters until the warranty is up. I've lost plenty of sales because of it, but I sleep well at night.
 

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Yodums said:
I would highly recommend anyone doing oil changes at the dealership to mark their filters. Something like painters tape or duct tape will suffice. That way you'll know whether or not they've changed the filters on these things.
i think the first scheduled oil change on your maintence minder doesnt call for a filter change... just the engine oil drained, which is dumb

doing your own maintenence FTW!
 

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Next time u should be able to simply turn the wheel all the way and reach the filter, it's still a pita...but ya don't have to pull the wheel...


I use castrol syntec, been usin it since my Rex and I think it burns less than M1
 
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