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Purpul Plane 4ever!
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big 3?????
 

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Big 3 is adding large guage wire (such as 1/0) to the factory wiring. This gives your electrical a larger surface area to travel over, helping fix voltage drops.

1) Battery positive to alternator positive (opitional fuse inline but reccommended)
2) Battery negative to chassis
3) Chassis to block

I am doing this at the end of the month and will make a DIY. I am too busy for the next 3weeks to do it. So expect a DIY around Halloween :) I have all my supplies (have for a long time) jsut been too lazy and busy. So give me like three weeks and I'll have it all done. I am going to rewire my D310 harness anyways so it will be a "fun" day/couple days.
 

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[IVI] said:
Worthless.
Yeah giving your electrical more surface area to travel on is worthless all right...:rolleyes:

Jester FPS said:
Isn't 1/0 wiring on the si not possible? I thought I heard that from somewhere...
No. They might have said it is hard because the wire they used wasn't very flexible. 4/0 would be impossible but 1/0 easy.
 

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Upgrading your grounds is always a good idea if your upgrading your Ignition system, Alternator or running any add on electronics.
I run a couple of amps to power my subs and component sets and without the ground upgrades I had some serious ground loop issues.
This caused all kinds of unwanted noise in the audio system.
Upgraded my grounds and all is well. :thumb:
 

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Been busy last couple days but I finally got some pics, not the best but should help some of you I hope.

Here we see the alternator positive sitting right on top, pretty simple to get to on my HO alternator but I noticed the factory one has a black thing around it and I am unsure if you can get larger gauge wire on it.


Next up is the engine block to chassis, looking at this photo you will notice that where this wire runs to is a pain to get to, I attempted to upgrade this wire, but gave up and left this wire as is. I did upgrade the ground as you will see in the next pic.


The instructions that came with my alternator said to run a ground wire from the alternator casing to the chassis of the vehicle rather than upgrading the engine block to chassis ground wire(the wire in the pic above). In this pic you can sorta see where I attached my wire, a bolt on the side of the alternator facing the catalytic converter. Even though the wire is very close to the cat I have not seen any signs of damage to the wire jacketing yet. In the next pic you will see where I run this wire to.


This last picture here shows where both my battery and alternator are grounded to on the chassis. This spot is very easy to get to with the battery removed and is why I chose it. The red jacket one is going to the alternator casing, and the black is going to my battery ground terminal. The unjacketed one is going to a spot a couple inches to the left as you can see with the line being drawn to them. I guess its just another ground, it was there and easy to upgrade so I did. On this grounding point, make sure to scrape the paint off before securing the wires to get the best connection possible.


I hope this helps out some, if you guys have any questions feel free to ask.
 

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negativezeroz said:
Big 3 is adding large guage wire (such as 1/0) to the factory wiring. This gives your electrical a larger surface area to travel over, helping fix voltage drops.
/QUOTE]

Holy Shiite ! :eek:mg:

1/0 copper cable is what I used for the IBM 3090 Mainframe computer system that took care of an entire City.

Do you think 1/0 is big enough? :laughing:

augydog :iorun:
 

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so these pics are of a r18. should this be any different with the k20?
 

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It's the same method but we have less space. I managed the 1/0 run from batt pos to alt pos. My 1/0 at the time wasn't flexible enough to make the chassis to ground and batt neg to ground.
 
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