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ok well i probably dont know that much more than the rest of the ppl here but i do know some of the basics and some other not-so-basic stuff. ill give you my 2 cents lol.
Ok well i do know that depending on the model that you get (EX or SI), you wont really have to worry about changing out the head unit right away. On most cars, you need to change the headunit because the factory one has no RCA outputs. Because the EX and SI both have the 350 Watt system with an amp and sub, you can bypass the factory amp with a couple of connectors and add your own amps.
When buying your audio equipment, NEVER base your purchase on the Peak Power! ALWAYS look at the RMS Power. The RMS is the amount of watts it can handle continuously while your listening to music. The Peak is how much it can handle at a brief point in your music. The HIGHER the RMS the BETTER!
Look at the RMS for everything audio that you buy. For the headunit you have to look at a few additionals, including Preamp output voltage (the higher the better), FM mono sensitivity(the smaller the better), and CD signal to noise ratio(the higher the better).
IMO- You get what you pay for! for example, your not going to have the same quality if you pay $150 for a sub than if you pay $400 for a sub. It all depends on how Beastly of a system you want. Do you want a system that wont scare a girl away when you take her on a date, or do you want a system that when you turn it up in your front yard, you rattle the windows and doors in your house. or you set off every car alarm you drive by?
IMO-
For Subs, go with JL AUDIO, Audiobahn, Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, MTX or Kicker.
For Amps, go with JL AUDIO, Rockford Fosgate, MTX, Alpine, or Kicker.
For Highs, go with Polk Audio**, JBL Power**, Pioneer, Kenwood
For Headunits, go with Alpine**, Sony, Pioneer,
I hope this helps! :thumb:
P.S. go to https://www.crutchfield.com/S-EBAgLtWnd7b/scgi-bin/catalog.asp?cm_re_o=twzpwy*gzfzkBT*Twfbf and order the free catalog. It defines all the terms that might confuse you and it shows you lots of top audio equipement for your home and car.
Good luck!
Ok well i do know that depending on the model that you get (EX or SI), you wont really have to worry about changing out the head unit right away. On most cars, you need to change the headunit because the factory one has no RCA outputs. Because the EX and SI both have the 350 Watt system with an amp and sub, you can bypass the factory amp with a couple of connectors and add your own amps.
When buying your audio equipment, NEVER base your purchase on the Peak Power! ALWAYS look at the RMS Power. The RMS is the amount of watts it can handle continuously while your listening to music. The Peak is how much it can handle at a brief point in your music. The HIGHER the RMS the BETTER!
Look at the RMS for everything audio that you buy. For the headunit you have to look at a few additionals, including Preamp output voltage (the higher the better), FM mono sensitivity(the smaller the better), and CD signal to noise ratio(the higher the better).
IMO- You get what you pay for! for example, your not going to have the same quality if you pay $150 for a sub than if you pay $400 for a sub. It all depends on how Beastly of a system you want. Do you want a system that wont scare a girl away when you take her on a date, or do you want a system that when you turn it up in your front yard, you rattle the windows and doors in your house. or you set off every car alarm you drive by?
IMO-
For Subs, go with JL AUDIO, Audiobahn, Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, MTX or Kicker.
For Amps, go with JL AUDIO, Rockford Fosgate, MTX, Alpine, or Kicker.
For Highs, go with Polk Audio**, JBL Power**, Pioneer, Kenwood
For Headunits, go with Alpine**, Sony, Pioneer,
I hope this helps! :thumb:
P.S. go to https://www.crutchfield.com/S-EBAgLtWnd7b/scgi-bin/catalog.asp?cm_re_o=twzpwy*gzfzkBT*Twfbf and order the free catalog. It defines all the terms that might confuse you and it shows you lots of top audio equipement for your home and car.
Good luck!
