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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m putting new coils and wheels on Friday and need some help with camber and caster setup. I want my car to turn in tight around turns but not sacrifice too much grip in the straights. Correct me if im wrong but there should be -1 to -2 caster? I plan on doing -1 to-1.5 camber. And then lowering the car about 2.5-3inches(3might be a lot but considering it, live in Florida) any advice or recommendations from personal setups would be greatly appreciated!

Setup will be
Ksport kontrol coils
17x8 Hypergrams with a 35 offset
On Dunlop direzzas 225/45R17
 

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18x10.5 +45 te37 225/40/18
Tein Flex Z @1.5 inch drop and dampers 2 clicks below max
Cusco sway bars
Cusco front and rear strut bar
Moog endlinks
Rear camber arms
Extended ball joints
Various Hardened Rubber and Poly bushings
Im running about or just below a degree of camber on all sides

My tires do wear unevenly but its nothing at an alarming rate and you can barely tell on a straight.
i think its doing pretty good on the straights but i do have more toe than i would like right now.
I have shitty tires but when they were good i was able to feel the rear rotate really well and it would want to oversteer too. the steering is also sooo precise almost too much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do you have any ball joint extenders, front camber bolts or rear camber arms? If you lower the car that much you will not be able to get the geometry correct with the stock adjustments.
good point. I have all oem suspensions as of now accept for some braces. I will get whatever I need to really do it right so everything sits and ride the way it should with the drop I’m trying to achieve. I don’t want much gap between the top of the tire and the fender. But I still want to be able to tel there is still a slight gap when looking at it from the side.
Parts/brand Recommendations?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
18x10.5 +45 te37 225/40/18
Tein Flex Z @1.5 inch drop and dampers 2 clicks below max
Cusco sway bars
Cusco front and rear strut bar
Moog endlinks
Rear camber arms
Extended ball joints
Various Hardened Rubber and Poly bushings
Im running about or just below a degree of camber on all sides

My tires do wear unevenly but its nothing at an alarming rate and you can barely tell on a straight.
i think its doing pretty good on the straights but i do have more toe than i would like right now.
I have shitty tires but when they were good i was able to feel the rear rotate really well and it would want to oversteer too. the steering is also sooo precise almost too much.
sounds like I’m going to have to wait on dropping the car until I get some more parts.Coils going on tomorrow, with wheels and tires. Hopefully I’ll be able to at least lower the car for the time being enough to where I don’t have a horrendous wheel gap. No other upgrades to the suspension
 

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good point. I have all oem suspensions as of now accept for some braces. I will get whatever I need to really do it right so everything sits and ride the way it should with the drop I’m trying to achieve. I don’t want much gap between the top of the tire and the fender. But I still want to be able to tel there is still a slight gap when looking at it from the side.
Parts/brand Recommendations?
Ktuned sells extended ball joints. If you want to save some money you can get extenders. Aerogenic Ball Joint Spacers are about half the price as getting new joints.

You can get rear camber arms from a few companies. Any of them are good enough.

With the coilover's built in camber adjustments you should be able get it where you want it. If not you will need camber bolts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CB2GOU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

If you go super low its also not a bad idea to get some extended tie rods. K tuned sells a set. This help reduce the bump steer from lowering it.

For now just don't go crazy with the drop and itll be fine and then slam it once you get all the proper parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ktuned sells extended ball joints. If you want to save some money you can get extenders. Aerogenic Ball Joint Spacers are about half the price as getting new joints.

You can get rear camber arms from a few companies. Any of them are good enough.

With the coilover's built in camber adjustments you should be able get it where you want it. If not you will need camber bolts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CB2GOU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

If you go super low its also not a bad idea to get some extended tie rods. K tuned sells a set. This help reduce the bump steer from lowering it.

For now just don't go crazy with the drop and itll be fine and then slam it once you get all the proper parts.
really appreciate the advice, I had a feeling I was going to have to wait a little longer to drop low. I’ll check some of those parts out really appreciate it.

So all i really need are extended ball joints and tie rods for the front and then get a set of camber arms for the back?

I want it to feel solid AF. No shortcuts, wanna do this right the whole way
 

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Ktuned sells extended ball joints. If you want to save some money you can get extenders. Aerogenic Ball Joint Spacers are about half the price as getting new joints.

You can get rear camber arms from a few companies. Any of them are good enough.

With the coilover's built in camber adjustments you should be able get it where you want it. If not you will need camber bolts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CB2GOU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

If you go super low its also not a bad idea to get some extended tie rods. K tuned sells a set. This help reduce the bump steer from lowering it.

For now just don't go crazy with the drop and itll be fine and then slam it once you get all the proper parts.
do you have the extended tie rods? How much have they helped? My bump steer is moderate but id like to reduce it without loosening up the dampers
 

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sounds like I’m going to have to wait on dropping the car until I get some more parts.Coils going on tomorrow, with wheels and tires. Hopefully I’ll be able to at least lower the car for the time being enough to where I don’t have a horrendous wheel gap. No other upgrades to the suspension
I forgot to mention i put spoon rigid collars on the front, rear and steering rack. They are expensive but blox makes them too for cheaper. HIGHLY recommend, they make the entire car feel as one piece. Even the clutch has less chatter on engagement and I can feel the drivetrain more precisely.
 

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do you have the extended tie rods? How much have they helped? My bump steer is moderate but id like to reduce it without loosening up the dampers
No, I have not lowered my car. But I have a small amount of knowledge in suspension geometry. The main cause of bump steer is the control arms and the tie rods not being parallel. This happens just by lowering and is worse if you only add the extended ball joints. Your roll center will improve but bump steer will be worse. So you need the extended tie rods to make them closer to parallel again.

I would also recommended calling or emailing K tuned for a better explanation and recommendation of what parts you'll need exactly.
 

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Adjustable sway bar links are a must. When you lower the car you pre-load the swAy bar reducing its range of movement and really messing up your load transfer from side to side.

Adjust the sway bar so it is parallel to the ground. If the bar ends are angled upwards you are pre-loaded. If they are angled downwards there will be reduced effectiveness or no load transfer at all.

Be careful when messing with steering and suspension geometry. There are some free McPherson strut geometry programs online. Roll center is in imaginary point in space, usually several inches above the ground, somewhere near the center of your car. It moves when you are cornering. Roll Center Moment Radius Offset is also important.

Link to free suspension geometry program: Suspension Geometry Calculator
 

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I’m dropped to a 1 finger gap in the front and can feel the front end being off. I have the K-Tuned control arm + extended ball joint ready to go in but I’ve been lazy to install it. The extended tie rods (I think) are for an extreme drop.
Thank you guys for the advice! @SniperBlaize @Chaos Pilot
Now that you mention it, I do remember the sway bar being preloaded during installation.
I am going to tinker around with that program.
WhiteLine KLC139
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Plant

This is how low it is now. Back left wheel is rubbi by a tiny bit when going over sloped edges on the highway over bridge. Have to slow down to 75 to avoid that. Will be raising the back about a half inch. Thought about rolling fenders but don’t want to mess with the center gravity too much. When I’m taking turns at higher speeds, it feels like I’m getting a little more sliding in the front than I’d expect and the back end sooometimes starts to hop a little. Maybe I need to soften the damper in the back?
 
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