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Discussion Starter #1
Front camber kits???


Skunk2 contacted me about the front end clunking I happen to have with my Skunk2 Lowering Springs and they asked me what brand of camber kit do I have.... It is still being investigated but having Honda replaced BOTH my struts and the clunking is the EXACT same leads me to believe it's either my springs or the camber kit.

To be continued.


Subscribed to own thread lol.... :popcorn:
 

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What front camber "kit" do you have? The only way to adjust camber in the front without an adjustable camber plate (which I doubt you have) is with the camber bolts. The camber bolts replace the stock bolts that bolt the strut to the hub assembly. If those are loose, you better go tighten them up before your suspension flys appart at 80 mph.
 

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Check your Steering rack...My Steering rack bolts were loose and the rack was falling off its mounting location. Get the rack checked first, then the top hats that would be my FIRST two choises.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good call. Yes, it's only a bolt kit. I should make sure if they are tight or not. Thanks guys
 

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WHat did you TQ the cam bolts to? They should be like 100 ftl;bs...Also I don't suggest reusing them as they stretch.

I would wager to say that it is the exteme drop the skunk springs provide.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This would make sense as the clunking got louder over time. I will ask my speed shop to check all the stuff over. If the bolts look messed, I'll get a different brand, like SPC.

Thanks HighRev1 ! :D
 

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Highrev1 said:
WHat did you TQ the cam bolts to? They should be like 100 ftl;bs...Also I don't suggest reusing them as they stretch.

I would wager to say that it is the exteme drop the skunk springs provide.

I don't think the spec is over 80ft/lbs maybe 77 or 79ft/lbs, but I could be wrong.
 

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This is just from prior installations I have done.
On a McPherson strut, you really need to make sure you pre-load the spring to make sure it is seated correctly. You also need to make sure the upper bolt (connected to the piston, at the top) is tight. I have had customers come in with those botls hand tight, not good.

The pre-load is essential, and will cause uneven lowering, clunking, un-even steering, etc. 350z/G35 are prone to this also.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sweet information, thanks!

I will ask these questions asap. How does one preload a McPherson strut?
 

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si_civic said:
Sweet information, thanks!

I will ask these questions asap. How does one preload a McPherson strut?
You need a threaded shock body with an adjustable spring pearch (coilovers) in order to raise the pearch up high enough so the spring is pushing against the upper mount. This way the spring won't full uncompress and start to rattle around.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
^ I don't think my shop did this...

Do you think the shock is bottoming out? Could that be the sound?
 

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They can't adjust pre load unless you have a threaded shock body.
I'm sure the suspension is bottoming out on big bumps.
 

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Revy, you know what I mean. Preload doesn't effect handling but it does keep the spring from becoming completely uncompressed to where the spring will come out of its seat. Preload is a bad term but that is what it is called.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, either or, I am getting everything 100% checked out. If the cam bolts are fine and struts + shocks, then I'm swapping out these cheap SKunk2 springs for Eibachs.
 

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Highrev1 said:
No such thing as PRe-load.
Just like crack and herion dont exist..sure.
I hope you never lowered a vehicle.:police:

To the OP, call me up if you need ANY HELP at all. I would be glad to help you out

Rob
 

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jdmstylesi said:
Just like crack and herion dont exist..sure.
I hope you never lowered a vehicle.:police:

To the OP, call me up if you need ANY HELP at all. I would be glad to help you out

Rob
:coffee: Explain Pre-load then....You know I have proven many times, that Pre-load as I understand the common misconception of it is a farse so why don't you explain it to me.
 

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Pre load only comes in to play during droop travel when the spring is extended passed its resting length. It helps keep the spring in the seats. Pre load is a bad term and should be changed. Pre load has no effect on handling, just noise making. I don't think you can argue that Revy.
 
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