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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a subwoofer in my trunk and it's been giving me problems lately... well, the amp is giving me problems. Everything's set up right and none of the connections are loose (the only thing I've done different before it stopped working was point at it... not kidding!!! lmao)... first it would turn on with the car, then it'll cut off at some point, and occasionally it'll come back on while driving. Recently it's been staying off the whole time. I checked the amp and its fuses are still good, so it's not that...

The only logical explanation I can think of is that the amp is going bad, which is unfortunate (it's gotta be a couple years old, easily)... but maybe I'm missing something else here that could be the problem? Any ideas would be appreciated.

And if I DO need a new amp, any suggestions as to which one? The sub is a 10" Alpine Type R in a sealed box... I'll be looking at another 500w amp if this is the case.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
change your battery!!! do you have a capacitor?

it shuts off your electronics if it hits a hard bass right
I hooked it up myself, so I know for sure there's no capacitor unless there was already one, which I doubt. Reading my sentence again, that doesn't really make sense haha :facepalm:

Anyways, the radio and speakers still work so the electronics aren't being shut off, unless you mean something else... everything is working normally, minus the bass. Although, you could be on to something with the hard bass note... this happened after I played a song I just got which has a ridiculous amount of bass. Almost to the point where I might have to tone down the LOC a bit
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
But why would it start doing this all of a sudden? I've had it installed and working fine for months now
 

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check again all the wiring. make sure the remote wire is connected real good in there cuz this is what turns on/off my amp at least..
also, after 2 years as you said, **** does get old so ya know
i bet its some wire that you are missing that isnt properly hooked up
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
LX, like I said, I checked all the connections and they're tight. No budge at all when I wiggle them around

And Aaron, I have the remote wire (I think) plugged into the ACC port, so it turns on when the key's in the second position. Other than that, it should be off. But I'm guessing you mean even despite this, the battery can be drained as long as it's connected, right?

I was able to drive home from work this morning with the sub working, but who knows how long it'll last haha.

Either way, I'll probably upgrade to a yellow top. And as for capacitors, do you have any that you would suggest I get? I'm not too familiar with good electrical components.
 

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LX, like I said, I checked all the connections and they're tight. No budge at all when I wiggle them around

And Aaron, I have the remote wire (I think) plugged into the ACC port, so it turns on when the key's in the second position. Other than that, it should be off. But I'm guessing you mean even despite this, the battery can be drained as long as it's connected, right?

I was able to drive home from work this morning with the sub working, but who knows how long it'll last haha.

Either way, I'll probably upgrade to a yellow top. And as for capacitors, do you have any that you would suggest I get? I'm not too familiar with good electrical components.
yellow tops are quite expensive. if you wanna just save alil money go for a raptor capacitor. it helps push the subs once it needs to hit hard so you dont drain much out of your battery. and keep in mind if your battery decides to die on you your alternator will also die too. But just get a capacitor it works quite good. im running a 500w amp and a 10in type R sub hitting hard from a mile away without any issues. let me know if the capacitor solves any issues.

also check if your signal wire is connected properly cuz if your signal keeps staying on. your amp will always be on
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
lol I have a 500w amp and 10 Type R......... coincidence?

If just a capacitor will help, I'll try that first. And my amp has a screen with a bac that comes on when it's on, so I that's how I knew power wasn't reaching the amp when I had the key turned on... otherwise the light remains off, so I'm sure it's not staying on all the time, otherwise my car wouldn't be able to start


also, which type of raptor should I get? and how does it hook into the whole circuit?
 

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lol I have a 500w amp and 10 Type R......... coincidence?

If just a capacitor will help, I'll try that first. And my amp has a screen with a bac that comes on when it's on, so I that's how I knew power wasn't reaching the amp when I had the key turned on... otherwise the light remains off, so I'm sure it's not staying on all the time, otherwise my car wouldn't be able to start


also, which type of raptor should I get? and how does it hook into the whole circuit?

im getting a 12inc Type R soon lol!!

so this narrows down to capacitor and battery. you can order online which is cheaper but longer wait. or purchase one from a local audio store or best buy but its roughly around 100
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah I just checked BB... craziness. But right now i'm looking at this site

| | RAPTOR AUDIO | |

and there's multiple types of capacitors I can get, with different capacities. I'm gonna go ahead and guess 1 farad would be good enough for what I have, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This is too funny... I was just looking at Sonicelectronix's ebay page... at the same exact thing haha

I believe we are on the same wavelength, sir. :pimp:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
High fiveeeee! haha I just ordered off the eBay page and saved 2 bucks off the main site, plus I was able to use my PayPal instead of whatever nonsense they use...

Soooo, when I get it installed I'll update this if it solves the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
lol I also have two 15" CompVR's that I can't get rid of... just sitting in my garage taking up space...
 
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