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Discussion Starter #1
has anyone here done this w/ any success? what is your setup? how is sound quality? pics? I know that using LOC's is not the preferred method of supplying signal to the amps, but I am curious how things turned out. I am not oppsed to upgrading to a new HU but if sound quality is good I would like to retain the OEM appearance.

Thanks in advance!!
 

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has anyone here done this w/ any success? what is your setup? how is sound quality? pics? I know that using LOC's is not the preferred method of supplying signal to the amps, but I am curious how things turned out. I am not oppsed to upgrading to a new HU but if sound quality is good I would like to retain the OEM appearance.

Thanks in advance!!
im planning on doing the same thing for my sisters 7th gen. i believe you can buy a rca adapter for the back of the stock cd player.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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No problem.. I'm not using the 3Sixty.. if I wanted the oem look I would probably use it, hear ALOT of great things about that processor.

Component Amp: JL 300/2 V2... CDT Audio HD62's

Subwoofer Amp: American Bass VFL 200.1... DD9515g
 

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I ran this for about a two weeks in my car i have a 15 inch Cvx kicker unfortunately the stock deck will not bring out the full power of the sub. And your mid's and high's suffer because your running it through a hi and low converter. Overall i would get an aftermarket deck im happy with the scosche kit. If your not anal about the sound and more anal about appearance then i would say getting an aftermarket sub and amp to the stock HU is just fine.
 

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Rockford Fosgate p4004 amp. Alpine type R components, and Infinity Reference for the rear, and Stock Navi(why I don't have a head unit) on a schoche 4 channel line out converter. It sounds great. Just look into a good amplifier.
 

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for great sound along with OEM integration, i would go with the arc audio FD 10D4 subs and a their speakers that i'm not sure of i can remember off the top of my head and run it all through their KAR series KAR 400.4 amp. running the speakers through the amp will give you a 1000 times better sound quality versus not running them. and then to top off the OEM integration use their KEQ-5 equalizer. this little thing is amazing. you can keep in your car if later on down the road you wanna switch to an aftermarket HU. this as a grand total will probably run you about &500-$600 bucks. i have ordered all of this from a local dealer and i am going to put it in hopefully before christmas but i doubt that on account of work. if you guys have any questions just shoot...

sorry the price will be a little bit higher on account of a more powerful amp but it is still a very good system.
 

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hey ellioke, I have that setup. I had to unplug the OEM amp, then figure out the speaker wires (later I found out i was right about colors), once done I soldered them to a pair of female RCA's, then using an RCA to the amp in the trunk. I have 3-way comps, so the 6.5 in the door, the 3" go in the feet (i have pics) and tweeters in the ab pillars. This way the sound goes from OEM radio directly to aftermarket amp and then to new speakers, the overall sound is really good, though it tends to distort after 35. Add an 8" sub in a seled box. If you use Ipod, get the new velcro, the one that is plastic on both sides, this way you can put your ipod somewhere in the radio. (I put mine below the signal button). If you want pics just tell me ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
hey ellioke, I have that setup. I had to unplug the OEM amp, then figure out the speaker wires (later I found out i was right about colors), once done I soldered them to a pair of female RCA's, then using an RCA to the amp in the trunk. I have 3-way comps, so the 6.5 in the door, the 3" go in the feet (i have pics) and tweeters in the ab pillars. This way the sound goes from OEM radio directly to aftermarket amp and then to new speakers, the overall sound is really good, though it tends to distort after 35. Add an 8" sub in a seled box. If you use Ipod, get the new velcro, the one that is plastic on both sides, this way you can put your ipod somewhere in the radio. (I put mine below the signal button). If you want pics just tell me ;)
pics would be great...thanks in advance
 

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If you are adding (replacing) an amp to the factory premium system with the small Honda/pioneer amp then you cannot just connect the HU outs to RCA cables and plug them in to your amp. If you look at the wiring of the 14 pin factory harness that plugs into the amp you will notice that each channel has a + and – wire. The – wire is a signal carrying wire and is not GROUND! If you connect this wire to the RCA shield and your amp doesn’t have fully differential inputs it will short this pin to ground and that is not good for the HUs pre amp. This will create noise, whine, and hiss and kill your stereo separation. You will also only be getting 1/2 of your pre-amp output level to drive your amp. Another problem is the HU preamp outs are not designed to drive long cables. Connecting long cables to the preouts causes a parasitic high frequency oscillation that degrades SQ to the point in some systems as to generate an audible hiss.

You need to use balanced audio cable and provide compensation for the long run to prevent oscillations.

How do I know all this? I have this system in my TSX and have tested it extensively. I have over 30 years electronics experience and fix a lot of audio equipment. I have also been helping TSX owners upgrade their systems for about a year now. Before I dissected the system and designed a proper solution, there were all kinds of problems with noise and SQ because of wrong techniques for adding an amp. Soldering RCA cables to the factory harness is the wrong technique and will lead to inconsistent results.

I have posted this info before but here it is again
Use a JL, Rockford FG Punch or Power series amp or a Kicker ZX multi-channel amp. These all have balanced differential inputs. Get a TSX amp bypass harness from me, problem is I’m not selling them here, and you’re good to go. No cutting or splicing.

If you are currently connected to the amps speaker outs with LOCs and you have on of these amps, get the harness and connected it the right way. You will be amazed at the SQ. If you don’t have the correct amp for this then you will have to wait until I finish the interface adapter for great SQ.

jeff
 

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If you are adding (replacing) an amp to the factory premium system with the small Honda/pioneer amp then you cannot just connect the HU outs to RCA cables and plug them in to your amp. If you look at the wiring of the 14 pin factory harness that plugs into the amp you will notice that each channel has a + and – wire. The – wire is a signal carrying wire and is not GROUND! If you connect this wire to the RCA shield and your amp doesn’t have fully differential inputs it will short this pin to ground and that is not good for the HUs pre amp. This will create noise, whine, and hiss and kill your stereo separation. You will also only be getting 1/2 of your pre-amp output level to drive your amp. Another problem is the HU preamp outs are not designed to drive long cables. Connecting long cables to the preouts causes a parasitic high frequency oscillation that degrades SQ to the point in some systems as to generate an audible hiss.

You need to use balanced audio cable and provide compensation for the long run to prevent oscillations.

I
jeff
I have to say that Jeff is right, the first problem is noise, alternator noise i think, hiss, etc. also channel separation, as I like time correction feature but for obvious reasons we don't have it, I used the balance control in the radio, but I noticed that if I conect both FL and FR channels and set the balance to the right, the amp still has output at the left speaker. I added a noise supressor (for RCA) and the noise is gone, and it's hard to tell the difference in quality. I know this is not the "right" way to do it, but I love sound quality, and this satisfies my needs. BTW I started a thread asking for help about adding a new HU without removing the OEM radio, this because I find (Alpine) HUs features very useful. I hope I helped and sorry I didn't say that before, I just forgot about it, +rep jeff
 

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I just followed the sticky on here to add a LOC running off the stock sub connector and it works great. I wired in a manual bass knob control into the change holder right under the mirror adjustment, and absolutely love it. I have a 600 watt kicker mono amp and 1 10" kicker CompVR sub, more than I need.
 
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