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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Everyone,
I've read a lot of great posts on the forum and always been able to find the info I was looking for - till now.

I was helping my friend with her 09 Civic LX today (rear disk brakes). Due to a rusty, seized caliper we replaced both rear calipers (and of course pads/rotors) and bled everything (it was a pain to get the air out - even using my pressure bleeder attached to the master. We ended up using a bit of the pressure bleeder and doing it the old-school way with the pedal.)

After we finished up I gave the wheel a test spin and it didn't move. Traced the issue to the parking brake being absurdly tight. Adjusted the cable under the console, per the instructions, and all seemed well (actually ended up leaving it just a hair on the loose side).

She then left to drive home (About 10 miles) and called me when she got there because the rear rotors smelled and were radiating heat (when compared to the fronts.)

She crawled under and verified, with the parking brake released, that the little arms on the rear calipers were sitting on/very close to the end stops (IE parking brake was really off), but that is as far as we got.

She's going to limp it back over tomorrow and we are going to dig into it again. Any suggestions on where to start?

My thoughts:
1) On one pedal press, after we THOUGHT we had all the air purged, the pedal did kinda stick, then go to the floor. Could we have over-travelled the master? (We were being very careful during bleeding to not let it drop all the way). Though i would expect that to result in no brakes, not stuck-on brakes. Least likely scenario in my book.

2) Perhaps the stupid tab/bump/nub thing on the inner rear pads isn't aligned with the "+" in the piston and the pad is binding up? (I admittedly forgot to check this when we assembled everything. Most likely scenario, but would that really be enough to lock up the brakes?

3) Long shot, but that BOTH flex hoses have collapsed on themselves (I'll check this by cracking a bleeder screw to see if it releases the wheel.)

Any other thoughts?

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
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2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hey Everyone,
I've read a lot of great posts on the forum and always been able to find the info I was looking for - till now.

I was helping my friend with her 09 Civic LX today (rear disk brakes). Due to a rusty, seized caliper we replaced both rear calipers (and of course pads/rotors) and bled everything (it was a pain to get the air out - even using my pressure bleeder attached to the master. We ended up using a bit of the pressure bleeder and doing it the old-school way with the pedal.)

After we finished up I gave the wheel a test spin and it didn't move. Traced the issue to the parking brake being absurdly tight. Adjusted the cable under the console, per the instructions, and all seemed well (actually ended up leaving it just a hair on the loose side).

She then left to drive home (About 10 miles) and called me when she got there because the rear rotors smelled and were radiating heat (when compared to the fronts.)

She crawled under and verified, with the parking brake released, that the little arms on the rear calipers were sitting on/very close to the end stops (IE parking brake was really off), but that is as far as we got.

She's going to limp it back over tomorrow and we are going to dig into it again. Any suggestions on where to start?

My thoughts:
1) On one pedal press, after we THOUGHT we had all the air purged, the pedal did kinda stick, then go to the floor. Could we have over-travelled the master? (We were being very careful during bleeding to not let it drop all the way). Though i would expect that to result in no brakes, not stuck-on brakes. Least likely scenario in my book.

2) Perhaps the stupid tab/bump/nub thing on the inner rear pads isn't aligned with the "+" in the piston and the pad is binding up? (I admittedly forgot to check this when we assembled everything. Most likely scenario, but would that really be enough to lock up the brakes?

3) Long shot, but that BOTH flex hoses have collapsed on themselves (I'll check this by cracking a bleeder screw to see if it releases the wheel.)

Any other thoughts?

Thanks!
Well, in case anyone wonders in the future - I reinstalled the old calipers and they acted normal (or as normal as rusted up old calipers can.) Ran to the autoparts store and got a new set of Duralast calipers, put them on, and all seems good. So apparently I had a bad set of Raybestos remanufactured calipers from RockAuto. Hopefully this return process isn't too bad.
 
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