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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2006 Civic LX coupe, Canada. ‘K2motor (ebay) foglight installation’

While you’re at this project, this is a good time to replace that crappy factory horn while you're in there! Just ensure the mounting position you choose doesn't interfere with the fog lamp mounting bracket, it's tight in there)

These fogs will work as long as the parking lamps are on.
They will not automatically turn off when you flick to your high beams.
They will blink with your factory lock/unlock as long as they are left in the ON position.
The button will light up white with your other dash lights, but will not dim with the rest of your factory dash lights. It's not bright to begin with though.
There is no indicator on the button itself other than it being physically clicked-in to show that the lights are on.


I’ve taken bits of this procedure from various sources on the 8thcivic board. I don’t claim to have created any part of this process. I’ve simply transcribed my experience into one procedure - with the hopes of helping others purchasing *this particular kit* and installing it into the same model civic as mine. I don’t know about the wiring in the sedan or with people that don’t have power mirrors or have that extra button we don’t have here in Canada. ;) The kit that K2motors sent me is very complete, and with the exception of the main 12v wire that I needed to extend (probably because of how I ran the wire), this was a very uncomplicated installation. Everything was plug and play. No customization whatsover. Please don't ask me how to customize your set if it's not this particular K2Motor set. I only know this set... for less than CAD $100 shipped, this kit can't be beat, in my opinion. Please don't quote this entire message in any replies; it's huge.

Before getting into removing the bumper, you could do the front-end electrical stuff first, and connect the relay up. This way, even though the fogs aren’t installed, you can test to ensure you can get the provided relay to click on and off as you expect it , with the new fog light button.


Remove front bumper cover:
(there are lots of threads in here on how to remove the bumper)
Open the hood. Remove the plastic trim cover that surrounds the hood-release mechanism. Next, the 2 screws facing up, inside upper wheel wells where the bumper meets the wheel well. Also 2 hex bolts on middle top of grille, then all pop-in anchors under car that connect to bumper. This is a 2-person job. Have one person on each side of the bumper spread it out from the car (it will snap out away from the wheel well), then both people nudge the bumper cover away from the front of the car. There are tongues on the bumper that slide into slots under each headlight to keep it all aligned.

Cut out fog light holes in bumper:
Lay bumper down on blanket or quilt and cut out plastic holes for fog lamps. I used an exacto knife (box cutter) to cut around the INNER part of the circle, then went around a second time to cut off the remaining part of the circle. If you try leaving a small ring of plastic in the hole for fear of cutting too much out, the fog lamp will not fit once mounted. Check for yourself with a dry-fit if you're concerned. The lamps must have the freedom to move for later aim adjustment, thus there will be a little gap around the lamp on the final install. Use a rotary dremel tool to smooth out any rough edges on the new hole.

Use the provided paper template to mark and drill aiming holes:

The template is included to assist you with drilling a hole in the appropriate position to later get a screwdriver up through the bottom of the bumper to adjust the aiming screw that is on the lamps. You could do the next step and then come back to this step so that you can envision where the template must go. Tape the templates to the bottom inside of the bumper and match up their shapes, (left is driver, right is passenger) and drill a hole for each lamp for a screwdriver where indicated, to be able to be put through later for adjustments.

Mount the foglights:
The two provided metal brackets are labelled with an L and R respectively.
Mount the lamps to their mounting brackets (left is driver, right is passenger). The bulb connectors will face downward in their final position. Use the (4x) rubberized-washer screws for the sides, and the (2x) gold screws to mount the height adjustment lever (connected to a spring-loaded screw) in the appropriate position. Once installed, the lamps should be able to be tilted up and should spring themselves back to the resting position once you let go. This is the tilt adjustment feature. Do a dry fitting to make sure all is well. Finally, screw the lamps on their brackets into place using the (6x) black flat-headed screws.


Affix the wire to the bumper:
Drill a little hole into each of the tongues that stick out from the bottom of the inside of grille. ( there are 5 or 6 of these tabs) Use black cable-ties to anchor the cable to the BOTTOM of each tab, so that the cable remains out of sight and not visible through the grille’s slots. Leave some slack at each bulb. Plug in the lamps. The 'single' end goes to the passenger bulb, and the business-end goes to the driver's side. Leave this end of that wire free for now.

Ground the fogs to the car:
You could, if the way you ran your cable allows enough slack, ground the foglamps' black ground lug to the battery’s negative terminal directly. I found this location too tight because it didn't leave enough slack to the foglamps. Rather, I chose to use one of the silver bolts under the headlight assembly on the outside driver's side of the car.


Run the wire from the cabin to the engine bay:
Inside the car, driver's side floor well, an inch or so above where the hood-release cable leaves the cabin, there is a little pop-out grommet. Pop this out with a screwdriver, and then use a knife to make a litle slit (an x cut) into the middle of it.

Inside the engine bay, remove the top left plastic cover from the inside-top of the fender (next to the engine fuse panel). This runs all the way back around the driver's side hood hinge. Weasel it out of place. We'll be pushing the single wire up through here next.

Next, grab a friend and push a straightened coathanger from the inside of the cabin through this new-found hole (put some tape on the end so you don't scratch the inside of the fender and remove any factory coatings),and over the inner wheel well. Have your friend snag it on the inside of the fender from the engine-side, just in front of the hood hinge. Since this was how I chose to route it, the cable wasn't long enough. I ended up buying and adding-in an an extra 4 feet or so, **of the same gauge wire** Pull this wire through the fender and you now have the single wire required that must pass from the cabin to the engine bay. Ensure you run your wire THROUGH the plastic grommet in the correct orientation through that hole you popped out earlier. This will seal the hole and protect the wire from nicks.

On the fog-lamp wiring harness, I cut off the provided connector on the purple wire and spliced in the new wire that I just ran through the fender. Solder, and heat-shrink, or at least wrap tightly and heat-shrink, this connection, or else it will soon corrode and not perform well later on. Reconnect this purple connector inside the cabin to the remaining end of the wire that passes through the fender, in the same manner, or forget about the connectors and just join the wiring itself. You don’t really need to use the provided purple-wire’s modular connectors.. you could simply cut them off, extend the wire, and reconnect/resolder later. This is ultimately what I did.

To clarify.. the single purple wire that runs to the lamps, was not long enough for the way I installed it. I left the bumper-side harness in-place to allow removal of the bumper later on for any reason, and I cut off the cabin-side of this connector and extended it with new wire.

Remove the inside dash trim panel:
(lots of posts in here on removing dash panels)
Remove, by pulling forward, the lower dash cover. This has the coin tray in it, and is under the steering wheel. It is held in with only snap-tabs, and can be forcefully pulled down and out to release the bottom snaps, the slid toward the seat for the remaining upper snaps. the upper clips slide horizontally into the dashboard, don't try to fold the whole panel downwards. You need to kinda pull it all towards you in order to release these clips.


Place the fog light button into the dash:
If you have power mirrors, you’ll have the mirror control and a blank plate next to it. You’ll just pop out the blank plate. If you do not, you may have to use the provided 3-position plate. In any case, just reach up behind the panel and squeeze the sides of the blank plate and push outwards to remove it. Then, just slide in the new button from the front, and the matching wiring harness from the back.

Wiring stuff:
There is a red/white wire that is provided, that must be added/integrated into the main fuse harness. To make some room, you should remove all three main wire harnesses (bundles) from the fuse panel. These are directly above the fuse array. (maybe 1/2 " high and 4 inches across) This is done by pushing in the tab on the right side of each, then pulling back the release latch 45 degrees or so, then pulling the entire 'plug' out. Remove all three sets so you have some room. Let them flop towards the floor so you can access them. (yes you’ll lose your radio presets and code. Ensure you have your code handy)

On the 'white' harness of the three, first side off the plastic wire cap/cover on its rear by sliding it back towards the wire source. (this is sharp plastic and can cut your hands) you can use a screwdriver through the cover's slots to help slide it off. The RED/WHITE wire from the new harness with the squared-tubular copper connector must be added to the open hole/slot directly underneath the **brown** wire of this factory harness. Looking at it from the back, you'll have BLACK on the left, Brown on the right, and you’ll need to pop your new red/white UNDER the brown. Ensure it locks into place and cannot be pulled back out. Replace the wire cap/cover. Re-install all three wire harnesses. The pull-lever on each harness will need to be open no more than 45 degrees to allow the harnesses to seat properly, then pushed-in to lock in place.

Black ground wire inside:
The black wire on the new harness must connect to a good ground connection. You should probably add it to the existing ground wire connection under the steering column area where all the other factory stuff is grounded, but I chose to simply loosen a bolt under the steering column and insert the ground connector there; good solid metal-to-metal contact. I just found that I couldn't get around to loosen the factory grounding point easily enough.

Insert the tiny provided red fuse into position 6 on the factory fuse panel.

Insert the provided new light blue harnesses MALE portion into the factory slot on the top left of the fuse panel. It will only fit into that one location and in one orientation. Tuck the unused female portion of the provided harness out of the way. You won't need it.

Connect the purple wire to to the wire that runs out to the engine bay and to the new fog lights. This provides the switched positive 12 volts to your new fogs.

Use a cable-tie to anchor the relay to somewhere solid. You'll see there's a wee hanger in there for the factory relay, but since we're using an after-market solution, you'll have to be creative on its placement.

Test everything and then put the car back together.

Aim your lights. From the factory, they will be low to the ground and not have any light-throw distance at all.

Hope this helps for this particular install. I know with the honda OEM lights, there's all this talk of removing the fluid reservoir or something, which is because the only good grounding location is on the passenger side under there. With this K2 kit, you can ground on on the driver's side! :)
 

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even better you guys want a video, when i get my car back from honda this week i'll upload a video you you all...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
> re: furryferret7888: "pics..."

I edited out all the ickky stuff in this particular post.. I was just kinda expecting some feedback but didn't get it.. what can I say.. I was tired and it added a negative mood into the thread...which we don't need here... so.... moving on.. ;)

J
 

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what do you want me to say "wow you spent soo much time typing this up, your the greatest, and yet you didnt have time to take any pics"


and i repped you btw...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
no, just a little appreciation rather than just saying "pics..", that's all. There _are_ lots of pics on here about how to do all this stuff, I just put it all into one place as I know how. What's worse, is that too many pics seems to fill up my quota, and then I have to remove the pics in a few weeks,, and suddenly there's a post with reference to pics,, and no pics in it cuz I've had to remove them to make room for new pics in other posts. grr! I appreciate the rep, by the way.

Was there anything in particular that you could use a picture of?

J
 

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nope..just saying :pics: (hopeing you would say you would post them later) a great DIY should always have some pictures for those that dont know exactally where or what something is...but otherwise (good writeup):iorun:
 

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Very good writeup. I was hoping for pictures but there are other threads that have illustrated the process with OEM fogs. So I'll use their pictures, but your writeup is the best one I've seen. I'll print it out and use it when I get my kit in. :dancing: Good job, I repped you for it. Thanks for taking the time. (I really mean that, I'm not being sarcastic and copying what you said). :D :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i put the clear ones on my black lx coupe. The yellow ones are cool looking though. you called them and they confirmed they are back-ordered?
 

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Is the purple wire necessary? I ask because I don't seem to have one on my kit from ebay, Zoku racing. Other than this purple wire and paper templates this kit is very complete and seems of decent quality.
 

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purple wire...

I bought my fogs from k2motor also. I didn't get any instructions, no templates, no purple wire. I managed to get them installed and they are working but I assume the purple wire is needed because my driver's side low beam doesn't work now, it was working before. I looked at the fuses for the low beams and both are fine. I put a known good bulb in and it also doesn't work. I saw on another how-to that the purple wire plugs into one of the harnesses behind the kick panel. I might also add it's a serious pan in the rear to aim the lights once installed, so much so I haven't yet.

If anyone can shed some light on the wiring for this kit, or if you know what the purple wire is for please post. If I knew where the purple wire comes from inside the new harness that's added I could probably rig something.
 

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im about to buy a set from K2's website. My question is if I leave the switch on the on position, will they turn on and off when i switch on and off the light switch??
 

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yes

Yes. They turn on at the parking light position when the switch is pressed and left pressed (on). They will flash when you lock or unlock your car with the remote.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
..p.s. the aim on my set of k2 fogs is insanely wide.. not sure if that's how it's supposed to be... but even when the height is set right, it's wide.

Maybe that's by design though.. never really seen another set of fogs in action. Blasting the fog in front of the car will only light up the fog and blind you.. so it MIGHT be better to light up the area "Around" the front of the car... <shrug>

j
 

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wide angle

I'd make sure they aren't on the wrong side. The mounting holes on the side should be a straight line through the groove on the back side of the bumper.

The yellow ones do look nice imo. I bought yellow bulbs for my focus stock fog lights...a real nice contrast with the 4000k-4350k bulbs (silverstars or mtec, had both)

Anyone have a clue why my driver's side low beam won't work though?
 

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..p.s. the aim on my set of k2 fogs is insanely wide.. not sure if that's how it's supposed to be... but even when the height is set right, it's wide.

Maybe that's by design though.. never really seen another set of fogs in action. Blasting the fog in front of the car will only light up the fog and blind you.. so it MIGHT be better to light up the area "Around" the front of the car... <shrug>


j
fogs are suppose to be give out wide output. I'm not sure how wide yours are. but I'm are perfect IMO, they light up the corners but they do not reach the bottom set off of my lowbeams. the fogs really helped me up in the canyons when those tight turns came.


Anyone have a clue why my driver's side low beam won't work though?
the purple wire is suppose to regulate your lighting, like if you have your fogs on and you wanna high beam, as you high beam the fogs will turn off. But I have k2motors kit and my high beams still work great.




---------------

anyone know what SIZE BULBS the K2motors are? they the same as the OEM fogs? too lazy to take off my bumper and check to see what size they are. I bought and HID kit for my fogs
 

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Purple wire

So I need to look elsewhere for the problem. That makes me feel better somewhat, at least I hooked them up right. I will be aiming them today and diagnosing further on the headlight. I'm going to put a volt meter on the drivers' low beam and see if I have voltage. If I can't figure it out today it will be going to honda this coming week. Thanks for the help.
 

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So I need to look elsewhere for the problem. That makes me feel better somewhat, at least I hooked them up right. I will be aiming them today and diagnosing further on the headlight. I'm going to put a volt meter on the drivers' low beam and see if I have voltage. If I can't figure it out today it will be going to honda this coming week. Thanks for the help.
if youre going to honda. hopefully your car is still under warranty, but if they see that you put aftermarket stuff that could possibly interefere with what youre saying (in this case the fogs) then they'll turn around and say the warranty is voided
 
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