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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure if I'm going to keep it or not yet. I asked for a DA for my bday and my dad wound up getting me this:





It's a rotary polisher. It can (as I've been told) do twice the amount of work a DA can do, but in in-experienced hands it can do damage to the car. I'm not sure if I should keep it and learn it on junker cars, or if I should return it and a Flex DA or whatnot.

I'm also concerned about the backing plate size since I will need 7.5 in pads and whatnot. I guess I'll wait it out and see what input I get from the Meguiar's forum and possibly rasky if he sees this thread.
 

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I've seen a lot of ppl recommend Milwaukee pads but never heard of anyone recommend the actual polisher/machine itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Someone on the Meguiar's forum told me it's "That is a very nice[they put emphasis on that part, not me] rotary polisher that one day after practicing with, you will love!"

Most of the guys on that forum seem to know their stuff so I'm gonna assume it's a good piece :thumb: My dad always goes for the best quality he can find and he told me that was the nicest one he saw in the store.
 

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Have you asked the autopia community also? I find them to be more diverse in terms of different products available (compared to Megs)
 

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Milwaukee makes some great tools. However that is a rotary and not an orbital buffer. Unless you know what you are doing I would highly recommend that you do not use it on soft Honda paint until you have had practice with it. (at least 20 hours)

I have both a rotary (Makita) and an orbital (PC). I never use the rotary on my Hondas/Acuras, the paint is so soft the orbital makes light work of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah I realize it isn't a D/A and I realize I can damage the car. It just seems like this would make the whole process much, much quicker than if I used a D/A. I'm gonna go get a hood from the junk yard and practice on it. Put some scratches in it and buff em out, wet sanding scratches in it and buff em out. We'll see how that goes.
 

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Yeah I realize it isn't a D/A and I realize I can damage the car. It just seems like this would make the whole process much, much quicker than if I used a D/A. I'm gonna go get a hood from the junk yard and practice on it. Put some scratches in it and buff em out, wet sanding scratches in it and buff em out. We'll see how that goes.
It's a great tool and it's the 1750rpm model which is a little safer than the 2800rpm one. I think your father meant well and it WILL remove any defect you may have but it is over kill for you and would probaly just damage your car. It takes years to master the rotary. I would return it for the Flex. :thumb:
 

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if you've never used a rotary polisher you should be very careful, you can burn the paint off the edges and do some damage to your clear coat/ paint rather quickly. I would recommend a Dual Action like the Porter Cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah I returned it. I turned it on once and the thing was too much of an animal to hold lol. It weighs enough that I know it would get old holding that thing up for an hr+ while it was torquing around in my hand.

Rasky, do you truly beleive it's worth it to pay $270 for the flex over $100 or so for the G100? Is the flex that much better?
 

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Yeah I returned it. I turned it on once and the thing was too much of an animal to hold lol. It weighs enough that I know it would get old holding that thing up for an hr+ while it was torquing around in my hand.

Rasky, do you truly beleive it's worth it to pay $270 for the flex over $100 or so for the G100? Is the flex that much better?

From the reviews I've read I'd say yes. I paid $240 for my rotary and on high end cars I have to go back over the buffed area with my PC to remove any swirls left behind from the rotary. The flex does the job of both the PC and a rotay in one step. Now if you have a very deep scratch a rotary would be better but for day to day cars it's sounds to be the way most detailers are moving. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
^^ Ok good deal. The only reason I'm really digging it is because from all these polishing vids I keep seeing it looks like most people spend 5+ mins on a panel whereas the flex does it in ~2 mins. Doing the car in half the time is awesome sounding to me :thumb:
 

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^^ Ok good deal. The only reason I'm really digging it is because from all these polishing vids I keep seeing it looks like most people spend 5+ mins on a panel whereas the flex does it in ~2 mins. Doing the car in half the time is awesome sounding to me :thumb:
Yep, that’s because the rotational movement breaks down the product a lot faster. :thumb:
 

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^^ I've been thinking about getting the flex as well. You need to get it first so I can get a good review on it!
What do you want to know about it? I have one.

Forced rotation is awesome. You can put as much pressure as needed for heavy polishing and it'll keep rotating. It also has a larger action (8mm or something) than the PC and is supposed to jiggle less than the PC. It'll do work faster than a PC too. My only complaint is that it comes with a 5.5" backing plate and I'm not sure if you can get smaller plates at this time. I gotta find out soon. I want some smaller pads for small area's like headlights 'n mirrors.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
What do you want to know about it? I have one.

Forced rotation is awesome. You can put as much pressure as needed for heavy polishing and it'll keep rotating. It also has a larger action (8mm or something) than the PC and is supposed to jiggle less than the PC. It'll do work faster than a PC too. My only complaint is that it comes with a 5.5" backing plate and I'm not sure if you can get smaller plates at this time. I gotta find out soon. I want some smaller pads for small area's like headlights 'n mirrors.
I decided not to get it and got the UDM instead. $270 was just too much to spend on a polisher when I'm just gonna do this as a very minor hobby. I'm still jealous of you though :thumb:
 
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