[tiZZle2.0]

I don't doubt that other cams break tensioners, just seems like more often than not its the s2's, I have heard it is because of the high ramp up design :shrug:

 

[Sirbelch]

This is exactly what I was thinking. On a stock block K20 those cams are WAY too much


Tapatalk sucka!

It's not that the engine can't handle the cams, it the fact that the engine can't handle the 9.5k rpm needed to take full advantage of the stage 3 cams. Any engine that can rev to 8k and last 150k miles is pretty effing stout.

 

[Cap-One]

I am looking at getting some cartels, did you have the oem tensioner or a aftermarket one?

Hybrid Racing, im currently on my 3rd one.

 

[Cap-One]

I don't doubt that other cams break tensioners, just seems like more often than not its the s2's, I have heard it is because of the high ramp up design :shrug:

Or ****ty tensioners.

 

[texm3x]

tensioners will not break on s2 cams unless your tune is off...

 

[Cap-One]

tensioners will not break on s2 cams unless your tune is off...

Your just assuming it broke in the conventional way. The last 2 I had blew out the snap ring in the side of the tensioner.

 

[texm3x]

i was on oem tensioner with my tune a little off(still hear chain slap a tad) and it never broke.

seriously check your low cam angle you might have it too high and your eating your motor away...

 

[blacksnow]

Funny Ive been using these cams for quite some time and havent had any issues. The motor has also been opened up and no issues from these cams. Not too mention they put down more power then some other cams people swear by.

Don't believe everything you read on the internet folks. One of the hard things I had to learn during my build. Test stuff for yourself. Speak to people actually using the products.

Skunk2 Stage 3 cams are an amazing product.

<3

 

[ATL Si]

It's not that the engine can't handle the cams, it the fact that the engine can't handle the 9.5k rpm needed to take full advantage of the stage 3 cams. Any engine that can rev to 8k and last 150k miles is pretty effing stout.

You'll still have a worse midrange than the tuner 2 cams, which make power to around 9k on stock K20s with good supporting mods because the profile is too large


Tapatalk sucka!

 

[w00t692]

It's not that the engine can't handle the cams, it the fact that the engine can't handle the 9.5k rpm needed to take full advantage of the stage 3 cams. Any engine that can rev to 8k and last 150k miles is pretty effing stout.

No, it's not that. It's the effect you get of overcamming the engine.

I saw a dyno my buddy showed me of a bolt-on k20 running drag cartel 4's.

He made 110 ft/lbs of torque on the low cam (BONE STOCK no mods at all makes 119-125) and the peak power was way up at 9300 rpms 248 whp.

But the thing is, even though he made 248 whp... everything from 6-8k was weaker than if he had chosen a more proper sized cam. the low cam area was WAYYYYYYYYY weak. We're talking probably felt like a b16 kind of weak.

 

[ATL Si]

^sounds like we're on the same page here


Tapatalk sucka!

 

[texm3x]

Funny Ive been using these cams for quite some time and havent had any issues. The motor has also been opened up and no issues from these cams. Not too mention they put down more power then some other cams people swear by.

Don't believe everything you read on the internet folks. One of the hard things I had to learn during my build. Test stuff for yourself. Speak to people actually using the products.

Skunk2 Stage 3 cams are an amazing product.

<3

:yeahthat:

 

[dkavar5]

So i have just picked up a tsx 2.4 block a month or two back and i have started my build. My build has been mostly modled after blacksnow's build, because my goal is 300whp on pump gas.

I was wondering what the best valves to run are, i was looking to go with manley or ferrea but ferrea are 100 dollars more. Is the 100 dollars worth it? I am going +1mm over on the intake and exhaust side. My second question is, are they are already cut down the best they can be, meaning should you still or can you do a 3 angled valve job on them or not?

 

[w00t692]

You do not need valves. You need a cnc ported head more than anything else./

 

[dkavar5]

Well i was doing a little reseach on that and a lot of people are showing little gains by porting the head. Portwork costs around 1,000 where valves and cutting the head to fit the oversized valves costs around 500

 

[w00t692]

If you want to hit your power goals you're going to need more displacement or a ported head. Your intake manifold is an important part of the power gains to go with the ported head, just fyi.

 

[dkavar5]

I am using Wiseco 12.5:1 and bored out to 89mm. So i figured with the extra displacement on the bottom end, allowing more air in through the valves would give me the best results. I am still on somewhat of a budget lol

 

[w00t692]

larger valves don't allow more air in without a proper angle job to accommodate them. I guess if you at least get a professional job done you'll be ok.

 

[dkavar5]

Well i was looking to do at least a 3 angle valve job, or 5. But is it worth it going to oversized then? I mean doesnt using oversized valves allow more air in? You have to port the head to allow for the larger valve, so wouldnt that result in more air in and easier air flow out?

 

[Mr_xpanda_52790]

Becareful to anyone buying skunk 2 cams no matter what the stage. I just recently had skunk 2 stage 3 cans installed on my fully built k20/k24. Two days ago my car jumped time at idle and bent my valves. The motor only had 6k miles and the tct failed already. I would suggest anyone looking to buy these cams to go with drag cartels or SVM instead unless you have the time and money to constantly check/replace your tensioner. Learned my lesson already. Two sets of skunk 2 cams and twice my motor has broke due to timing chain issues. Once with the hybrid tct and now with the oem tct.


I'm all jacked up on Junk 2!!!