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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I looked at the DIY install for this intake in another thread and I need clarification on a couple things.

1.) Do you need to remove the front bumper or simply the fender cover on the drivers side? Skunk2's youtube video does not remove the bumper or the plastic cover in the engine bay ... simply the inner fender cover. The DIY tells you to remove both the front bumper and plastic covers in the engine bay.

2.) Some people have stated you need to re-route the ECU harnesses by removing the brake fluid reservoir however neither the DIY or youtube video state this

3.) Some people have also stated you dont need to drill a hole in the frame for the 3rd bolt that attaches to the battery plate/intake. I dont really have a problem doing this as it seems pretty straight forward.

Other than some contradicting posts I found in a few threads I was hoping there was someone that could clarify this. The install looks pretty simple based off the vague instructions.
 

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1. From what i remember, You do not need to remove the front bumper or fender.

2. Rerouting the ecu and reservoir is easy, I didn't have any issues with the provided Instructions, I did watch the same install video which did help.

3. I drilled the hole for the extra support and a little bit of weight reduction lol. Place the bracket where it needs to go, And use a marker to mark the hole for drilling.

this install took quite a bit of time, but I'm a bit of a perfectionist. Just take your time with the install and you should do just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks.

What about the MAF piece?

I plan on using the MAP tune but im kind of new to this stuff.
 

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If you want to use the bigger coupler option, You will be removing the maf sensor and using a GM IAT sensor instead. The sensor will be installed in one of the intake barbs. You will be using the maf sensor Harness as a power source for the IAT sensor. I used one of the preset maps on Hondata, I wasn't able to do a proper datalog with this setup in time, due to me totaling the car at the time. So i had know idea if the preset tune was safe for this setup. But due to the Maf Sensor removal, Although it may not be needed, I would suggest getting a E-Tune or a Pro tune with this setup, just to be on the safe side and to utilize the full power gains with the new setup.

Try searching on the forum as well, there may be some updated info I havant been on here in years.

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/intake-spacer-discussion/304421-skunk2-cold-air-intake-iat-id-90mm-question.html

FlashPro Help

"Months ago during the design process, we sat through numerous engineering meetings discussing the exact same great ideas you came up with here. The decision we made were to achieve the goals that we thought were important to enthusiasts.

There's a lot of pages to sift through in this thread so here is a brief reiteration the reasoning behind our temp sensor selection decision:

Why didn't you use the OEM MAF as a temperature sensor for MAP based ECU tuning?

Three Reasons:
1. Inserting a temp sensor into the tube reduces its flow cross sectional area. (lower % is better)
- 307004 GM/AEM temp sensor: 1.9% of 90mm ID area (Skunk2 Intake and GO Power Intake)
- RSX temp sensor: 2.6% of 90mm ID area (Skunk2 2009 Civic Si - Grand Am Challenge Intake)
- OEM MAF sensor: 7.4% of 90mm ID area
2. The 307004 GM/AEM temp sensor has a faster thermal reaction time (lower thermal time constant) than the RSX temp sensor. The OEM MAF is acceptable in this regard.
3. A custom molded 90mm MAP coupler would have added about $25 to the retail cost of the kit. A new 307004 GM/AEM temp sensor can be bought for $10 to $20.

The 307004 GM/AEM temp sensor is available at a variety of race shops, for example:
GM Open Element IAT Sensor with Pigtail DIYAutoTune.com
FAST 307004 - FAST Air Temperature Sensors - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Air Inlet Temperature (AIT) Sensor Kit
Gm Air Temp Sensor - Modern Automotive Performance

The standard connection is as follows:
The short plastic tube (one that says Skunk2 on it) has two barbs in it, one for the IAB and the other for the valve cover. If you are MAF based, you would use these and the MAF molded rubber adapter.

If you are using a MAP tune, then you can remove the IAB and plug it (which is what most people do). The hose and barb will be removed and then the GM/AEM air temp sensor can be installed in the port, as this is already tapped 3/8" NPT.

No drilling or tapping is required to install the 307004 GM/AEM temp sensor. It's already done for you.

By using the included MAF Delete Coupler no diameter changes occur. It's 90mm ID straight through."
 
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