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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I figured I might was well do a DIY for this. The DIY section is a bigger medium to get the idea of Si sways on non-Si's out there.

Here's what ya need:

14mm socket wrench
jackstands

and a buddy is helpful always, but not necessary

Parts needed:
Front sway bar upgrade:
51300-SVB-A02 SPRING, FR. STABILIZER ----- 1 x $67.47
51306-SVB-A01 BUSH, FR. STABILIZER HOLDER ----- 2 x $1.44

Rear sway bar upgrade:
52300-SVB-A01 SPRING, RR. STABILIZER ----- 1 x $34.55
52306-SVB-A01 BUSH, STABILIZER HOLDER ----- 2 x $1.39
52308-SVB-A01 HOLDER, STABILIZER BUSH ----- 2 x $2.04
52317-SVB-A01 BRACKET, R. RR. STABILIZER ----- 1 x $3.02
52318-SVB-A01 BRACKET, L. RR. STABILIZER ----- 1 x $3.02
93401-10020-08 BOLT-WASHER (10X20) ----- 4 x $0.93

NOTE:The DX does not come with a rear sway bar, so you will also need to order the bolts and endlinks in addition to the above:
(part #40) 93401-10020-08 BOLT-WASHER (10X20) ---- 4 x $0.93
(part #28) 90002-S10-000 NUT, FLANGE (10MM) ---- 2 x $1.68
(part #32) 90212-SA5-003 NUT, SELF-LOCK (10MM) ---- 2 x $0.31
(part #15) 52320-SNA-A01 LINK, R. RR. STABILIZER (right endlink) ---- 1 x $10.60
(part #16) 52321-SNA-A01 LINK, L. RR. STABILIZER (left endlink) ---- 1 x $10.60
The self-locking nuts hold the endlinks to the swaybar; the flange nuts hold the endlinks to the control arm; the four bolt-washers hold the Si L-bracket on. Here's a picture to help you DX owners:


So I started with the front sway bar. I jacked the car enough for me to get under it and the fun began. I first undid the brackets and bushings (make sure it doesn't swing down and hit your head). I then tried the side bolts. See the little silver-looking bolt that connects to the end of the sway bar?





I didn't even bother trying to even REACH that thing. It's connected to a ball joint with an arm (think bones) to another balljoint which is then connected to the car (see the rusty bolt in the pic below). It kinda looks like a bone with ball joints at each end and 4 purple dots on each ball joint. I then undid it there and took the sway bar out, and switched the bone-like balljointed things to the new sway bar. It really helps to have something or someone hold it up because it's much heavier than the stock front sway.

I then went to the back. Here's a pic comparing the EX rear sway with the Si rear sway. Big difference.



I got under and started from the middle first, like before. I took the brackets off and then tackled the weird bone-like joints and took them off the old sways and put them on the new Si sways. (btw, the ends of the screws on the bone-things will probably be a little rusty, WD-40 helps)

Before:



After WD-40: tada!



With the rear sways, you should have a L-bracket and some new bushings. No need to take the old bushings and L-brackets off the old sway bar because they won't be needed. (here's a pic oh the L-bracket on the old sway on the car)



Finally, I got under the car and put the rear sway in. It helped to steady it by putting the bone-thing's screws in the holes first (to hold it in place) then screwed the nuts on. Again, the screws are not exactly fun to deal with; my arm hurt so bad after loosening and tightening so much. and last, I screwed in the L-brackets to the body and BOOM easy suspension/handling mod.

Review: Oh my God. The ride feels amazing. It actually feels less bumpy and there is a noticeable lack of body roll as well as less shaking at higher speeds. I took her to 100mph that night and instead of the steering wheel and my arms battling, it felt more like I was going 60-65; much more planted to the pavement. I highly recommend this to anyone who's looks for a cheap mod. I paid $135 in all and it was completely worth every cent spent.

edit: bone-like things = endlinks; I didn't know what they were called at the time.
 

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Nice DIY.

The swaybars also make the car more stable when it's windy or driving near an 18-wheeler.

Why did you take off the end links and them transfer them to the new swaybar? I found it easier to leave the end links attached to the car so I didn't have to play around with undoing/redoing them more times than necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
dcfife said:
Nice DIY.

The swaybars also make the car more stable when it's windy or driving near an 18-wheeler.

Why did you take off the end links and them transfer them to the new swaybar? I found it easier to leave the end links attached to the car so I didn't have to play around with undoing/redoing them more times than necessary.
It was too hard for me to get the front endlinks off with the wrench. The rear ones I probably could have done without but did anyways. It may have slowed me down a bit by doing so but I wasn't bothered by it, just a little irritated that I couldn't get it off.
 

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We'll see.........I'm crossing my fingers it gets delivered by Thursday, or I'll be waiting until April for it :(
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Avenger said:
We'll see.........I'm crossing my fingers it gets delivered by Thursday, or I'll be waiting until April for it :(
Why april?
 

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I'm having it delivered to Tampa Florida (I'm there on vacation at the moment).......but if it doesn't come, I gotta wait until April when my Grandpa drives from Florida back to Ontario and brings em with him.
 

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cojaro said:
The rear ones I probably could have done without but did anyways. It may have slowed me down a bit by doing so but I wasn't bothered by it, just a little irritated that I couldn't get it off.
when I installed my Progress rear sway, I also found it easier to do the install by removing the endlinks along with the stock bar... good diy cojaro.
 

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It definetly feels stiffer with the rear Si sway bar installed. I thought maybe a bit too stiff. But then I gotthe Carbing front upper strut bar and no longer. Now the car feels like its leaning towards understeering. Now I understand what the guy was telling me. Some guy told me that he got the oem rear Si anti-sway bar, then he intstalled the front oem Si anti-sway bar and he said once he put the front sway bar on that he felt like he needed a larger rear sway bar. So he ended up putting the 22mm progress rear anti-sway bar on. He says its better than ever with his current set up: 22mm in rear 27.2mm up front.
- My personal experience getting the front upper strut bar was like getting a thicker front anti-sway bar. Now I feel like I want to stiffen the rear even more.
 

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OK, mine came in today..........Fed Ex seems to have misplaced one of the front bars though :( Why the hell isn't this stuff reliably shipped? How can you lose a 20lb bar?

Anyways.........I'm lookin on my car.......and it seems like my DX doesn't have a rear stabilizer bar. I really hope it does, because I didn't order enough bolts if I can't reuse some :(
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Avenger said:
OK, mine came in today..........Fed Ex seems to have misplaced one of the front bars though :( Why the hell isn't this stuff reliably shipped? How can you lose a 20lb bar?

Anyways.........I'm lookin on my car.......and it seems like my DX doesn't have a rear stabilizer bar. I really hope it does, because I didn't order enough bolts if I can't reuse some :(
To my knowledge (unfortunately in this case), only the LX and EX come with a rear sway bar. If you don't have the bolts, it'd probably be easier to get them from your Honda dealership instead of ordering online.
 
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Green-Jimmy
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