8th Generation Honda Civic Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I stripped both the uca bolt and the bolt that holds the bottom of the shock to the lca. I tried a normal socket set with some wd-40 which didn't work (obviously), and then tried an air compressed impact gun. Still these bolts wouldn't budge, finally tried a breaker bar which of course stripped the bolts to where I can no longer get a grip with any socket. I've heard of people cutting the heads off and pulling out the threads? I have no idea what to do next and have no idea what tools/equipment I would need. Would I be better off taking it to a shop and having them take a look? :sadwavy:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
sounds like you would be best off taking it to a shop.

To cut out the lower bolt you have to grind or cut the head off, then drill it the rest of the way out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,687 Posts
If you are replacing the shock(s) you could get a grinder and a cutoff wheel and cut thru the bolts between the shock and the bracket. I found that the bolt actually seized to the shock bushings, so that was the only way to get them off.

As for the lower control arm, not sure off the top of my head...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
If you are replacing the shock(s) you could get a grinder and a cutoff wheel and cut thru the bolts between the shock and the bracket. I found that the bolt actually seized to the shock bushings, so that was the only way to get them off.

As for the lower control arm, not sure off the top of my head...
Yeah i'm putting in coilovers, that doesn't sound too difficult. do you have a recommendation on what brand or what size of cutoff wheel to use? How hard was it to fit the grinder + cutoff wheel down into there to cut it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Reviving an old thread. I was changing both my oem rear shocks to kyb today. The right lower shock bolt came out easily, however could not remove the lower shock bolt from the left shock. It is seized to the bushings and in the process of attempting to remove I rounded the 14mm flange bolt head with my breaker bar and 14mm socket.

I need some recommendations. I don't have the tools to cut the bolt out so I was thinking of 1) replace the whole trailing arm, bolt and shock or 2) pay the shop to attempt to cut out the bolt.

What would you guys do?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
I need some recommendations. I don't have the tools to cut the bolt out so I was thinking of 1) replace the whole trailing arm, bolt and shock or 2) pay the shop to attempt to cut out the bolt.

What would you guys do?
I would go out and buy the tools. That will probably be cheaper and then you will have tools for future use. It's probably the cheapest option. If you don't expect to use it often then the cheap stuff from Harbor Freight will do just fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I would go out and buy the tools. That will probably be cheaper and then you will have tools for future use. It's probably the cheapest option. If you don't expect to use it often then the cheap stuff from Harbor Freight will do just fine.
So I guess the best solution would be to get an angle grinder or equivalent and cut the bolt between the clevis and shock body?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Sawzall + Dremel works well I've replaced the rear shocks on two 8th generation Civics and had to cut them out both times Get some 10.9 hardware (Grade 8 equivalent for metric) and cut everything out.

Here's what I do.

1. Cut the shock at the base and remove the top portion to get it out of the way.
2. Use a sawzall or cut-off wheel to cut the head of the bolt off, then cut off the nut.
3. if you can't get it out still, cut the base of the shock in half.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
You need a torch, impact wrench, 14 mm impact extractor socket, and maybe replacement bolts.

Google brought me here trying to solve the same sort of problem. The solution was ultimately heat.

I used liquid wrench on the passenger side, ball pein hammer to loosen it up, and an impact wrench working the lower strut bolt back and forth. I worked it for a good hour or so, and it did start to budge back and forth a bit, but I ultimately had to move on to the torch.

I used a propane torch on each end of the bolt, then went to town on it with the impact wrench. I heated the tip of the bolt for 1-2 minutes first, impact wrench back and forth for 2-3 minutes, then torched the head of the bolt followed by impact wrench. It was smoking from the impact wrench. After torching the head it came out. I worked it forward like 40% of the time, reverse 60%, iterating back and forth for about 2 minutes at a time while the bolt was hot from the torch. After a couple minutes I'd break for a few minutes, then come back with the torch.

For the driver side I went straight for the torch. Skipped the ball pein hammer treatment, less liquid wrench, less waiting, wait straight for the torch and impact wench. I had to heat it 3 times instead of 2. Pretty much stripped the head too. I used a 14 mm impact extractor socket to get the bolt out. Surprisingly I had enough left to reuse the bolt. If I planned it better I would have just had replacement bolts ready. It sounds like a lot of people end up with cut or stripped bolts.

The driver side came out pretty easy with this method. Once I had all the tools in place I only had to work on the driver side for 15-20 minutes. I pissed away 1 hour+ passenger side before going to the torch.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top