[gr3yEX1]

I think im confusing you. Nevermind about what I said because there is absolutely zero noise =). Probably just that I was hearing things because when I turn on my car it sounds super clear and clean. Sorry for the confusement.

 

[tda1337]

hey dj, ive seen u talking ALOT about stuff that doesnt make ne sense, like once second u had 2000 Watts (by the way ur talking PROBABLY MAX) and then 1000 watts
just for your information
my standard system will MAX out a 4 gauge oversized wire (equals 2.97 awg)
its only 2 amps, a PDX 100.4 @ 60 amps and a KAC-9104d @ 60amps.. thats 120 amps, and pretty much the max of any 4 gauge (over max for cheaper brands) wire on the market

for your future reference, both amps are Class d and extremely efficient. And i dont think you should be giving advice and suggesting having another battery or CAPS
caps are kinda useless for extended listening, great for about a whole 3 secs (if you have a 6 farad with my system for instance) but otherwise, a big empty space
if nething an upgrade of the alternator to a high output alternator is all you need (which also requires replacing the stock ground wire for the alternator!)

Id have to say that your car would have had to be running 2 gauge or smaller in order to run a 2000 RMS amp and a 400 RMS x4 amp... in fact it should have ran 1/0 or even 2/0!!!!

if you are talking bout systems that are bought from walmart, no they prolly wont need 4 gauge... BUTTT and thats a big but they might

for instance, my gfs system was walmart type stuff... a jensen 400 RMS amp and a pioneer 60x4 RMS amp... this put me just over the 60 amp max of 8 gauge wire, so in this case 4 gauge was just perfect.... but only to a distribution block where it broke down to 2 8 gauge wires ;-P

 

[tda1337]

again for reference:
a farad cap hold about enough charge to bolt out 150 RMS though a class D amplifier for about 2 secs. This means that anything past this is a DOUBLE drain on your alternator and battery as they try to keep up with the demand of charging ANOTHER storage source!

 

[djdisturbed]

hey dj, ive seen u talking ALOT about stuff that doesnt make ne sense, like once second u had 2000 Watts (by the way ur talking PROBABLY MAX) and then 1000 watts
just for your information
my standard system will MAX out a 4 gauge oversized wire (equals 2.97 awg)
its only 2 amps, a PDX 100.4 @ 60 amps and a KAC-9104d @ 60amps.. thats 120 amps, and pretty much the max of any 4 gauge (over max for cheaper brands) wire on the market

for your future reference, both amps are Class d and extremely efficient. And i dont think you should be giving advice and suggesting having another battery or CAPS
caps are kinda useless for extended listening, great for about a whole 3 secs (if you have a 6 farad with my system for instance) but otherwise, a big empty space
if nething an upgrade of the alternator to a high output alternator is all you need (which also requires replacing the stock ground wire for the alternator!)

Id have to say that your car would have had to be running 2 gauge or smaller in order to run a 2000 RMS amp and a 400 RMS x4 amp... in fact it should have ran 1/0 or even 2/0!!!!

if you are talking bout systems that are bought from walmart, no they prolly wont need 4 gauge... BUTTT and thats a big but they might

for instance, my gfs system was walmart type stuff... a jensen 400 RMS amp and a pioneer 60x4 RMS amp... this put me just over the 60 amp max of 8 gauge wire, so in this case 4 gauge was just perfect.... but only to a distribution block where it broke down to 2 8 gauge wires ;-P

no, the system was designed by me and a spon in Ral who held the loudest vechicle in the world status for 3 years, Creative Acustics, Stroker Van. I was running 1-bd1000 Rockford Fostage amp with the dual VC speakers set up as a 1 ohm load), a Rockford fostage 400a4, all these went into a fuse box mounted on the amp wall (front part of the sub enclosure, but not part of the actual sub box), also into the sub box was a 600watt dc/ac converter to run playstation (also ran my dj euiptment off of it), off this cam a 2gauge wire to the 2nd batt (optima yellow top) concealed in the base of the wall. The 2nd batt got power from a 2gauge wire running from the first battery/altenator with a 40amp circuit breaker on it (originally used a 40 amp fuse, but the fuse kept breaking (like cracking in half) due to vibrations. stock alt. and normal batt under the hood. My mids/highs were MB Quarz componant speakers (before they got bought out) and my head unit was a kenwood Video touchscreen (before they started putting dvd players in them) will TV reciever. this was in a 97 dodge dakota extended cab, with the full backseat removed and replaced with the subs and amp, the 2 18" dual VC rockford subs pointed straight up with a comp. tuned box, pushing 145.9bd of bass to the front windshield, i could have gotten more db by adding a 2nd bd1000 to the system with a 2 ohm load on each b/c it was designed to do this if we wanted without having to re-do too much of the set up (if you saw it you would know what im talking about), but i didnt feel like re-enforcing my windows, also if i would have taken the head liner out i would have gotten a few more db's but at the same time, i wanted it to look somewhat good inside. this was back in 1999 or so ( give or take a year or so)

As for what I know about running power things in vehicles, I worked for a Communication shop for a long while, installing police lighting and 2way radios (with some of the larger ones pulling ALOT more power then any audio system you will put in a civic, think about a fire dept moble command truck). We didnt even keep 0gauge wire in the shop b/c it was never really needed, Exp when you can run 2 smaller power wires for much cheeper then running 0gauge. But then again, what Do I know, i just studies lighting and sound system design for theatres in college (wich those amps draw even more power than any veichle can handle, i know, diff type of thing, but i still have to design the power source for these things as well when i design a system). Plus I have been install car audio since 1995, and police lighting and 2 way radios since 2000. Plus, did i say I'm a FCC licends radio operator, witch means i had to take many test on electrical systems (FCC id KF4ZZE)

 

[djdisturbed]

Now I'm not saying NOT to use 0 gauge wire, use it if you want BUT, in MOST set-ups its a little overkill. unless you are running a very high power system with LONG wire runs you typically wont need it. Part of the reason that we didnt have to use 0gauge wire on my set up was the run from the 2nd battery to the amps was short and i was not getting much resistance from a long wire run. same thing with the wire going to the 2nd battery (wich was about the same length as going to the trunk in the civic b/c i had to cross over the engine bay to the other side to run it in the truck). There have been times when i DID need to use 0gauge (and bigger) on set ups, but they were pushing alot more power then i was in the truck (wich i dont see you average 8th gen owner trying todo, i many civic owners spending 0ver $6000 on just speakers,amps and custom boxes/installs when that $ is much better spent on our engines:vtec I have had to run 00gauge wires for one of my friends set-ups, but he was also doing a bass comp walled van. he was hitting 160.1 db of bass with that system, with a 57 hrz feq. on a 2 second burp, my system was 145.9 with a 54hrz burp, gotta love tuned systems to optimize you spl's).

I think my set-up for the mugen is NOT going to be a bass set up, its going to be a IASCA type set up, going for overall sound quality not SPL's. I'm already well known in this area's club scene for my great sounding club audio systems i design, so next I'm going for that hifi Home theatre sround sound type thing in the mugen. I got a sub box design that if it works right will give me both the strong punch i like with a a good sounding rumble without havingto put in the big guns and taking up all my trunk space (using some of my club style sub designs, using both a front mounted sub and a short throw horn type sub enclosure using 2 diff size subs). but its goingto be REALLY fun getting that IASCA sound without all the rattles that the civics are bad for, i might want to buy stock in dynamat... lol

 

[tda1337]

Well..... you DONT need a 2nd alternator for a 2nd battery, I used to have bass comp set up and ran a 2nd battery and NEVER had to add a second alternator for it, now if i had more then just the second battery then i would have to add one or more. BUT that also depends on your current alternators output and you can always put a better output alternator in instead of adding a second one. BUT its much better then just using caps alone. I had an issue with killing my main battery with caps alone in my old vehicle, but with a second battery installed i never had an issue and the bass was alot cleaner. But then again, if you are not running that much power then its no big deal. I was pushing 1600 watts out of one amp (in mono) and 800x4 in the other amp.

i still think its funny that everyone is running 0 gauge wire and not even using enough power through there system to warrant 0 gauge wire. I ran a 2nd battery on my old bass comp truck with 2000 watts pushing 2 18's and a 400X4 amp and i didnt even have to run 0 gauge wire. I was running 2 gauge to the 2nd batt and 4 gauge wire to the amps, and this was dong by the shop who owned/designed the old stroker van that one the loudest vehicle for 2 straight years (infact my 2nd battery was out of that van). I'm not saying that you sould not do it, I'm just saying its a little overkill unless you are setting up high power audio comp systems.

no, the system was designed by me and a spon in Ral who held the loudest vechicle in the world status for 3 years, Creative Acustics, Stroker Van. I was running 1-bd1000 Rockford Fostage amp with the dual VC speakers set up as a 1 ohm load), a Rockford fostage 400a4, all these went into a fuse box mounted on the amp wall (front part of the sub enclosure, but not part of the actual sub box), also into the sub box was a 600watt dc/ac converter to run playstation (also ran my dj euiptment off of it), off this cam a 2gauge wire to the 2nd batt (optima yellow top) concealed in the base of the wall. The 2nd batt got power from a 2gauge wire running from the first battery/altenator with a 40amp circuit breaker on it (originally used a 40 amp fuse, but the fuse kept breaking (like cracking in half) due to vibrations. stock alt. and normal batt under the hood. My mids/highs were MB Quarz componant speakers (before they got bought out) and my head unit was a kenwood Video touchscreen (before they started putting dvd players in them) will TV reciever. this was in a 97 dodge dakota extended cab, with the full backseat removed and replaced with the subs and amp, the 2 18" dual VC rockford subs pointed straight up with a comp. tuned box, pushing 145.9bd of bass to the front windshield, i could have gotten more db by adding a 2nd bd1000 to the system with a 2 ohm load on each b/c it was designed to do this if we wanted without having to re-do too much of the set up (if you saw it you would know what im talking about), but i didnt feel like re-enforcing my windows, also if i would have taken the head liner out i would have gotten a few more db's but at the same time, i wanted it to look somewhat good inside. this was back in 1999 or so ( give or take a year or so)

As for what I know about running power things in vehicles, I worked for a Communication shop for a long while, installing police lighting and 2way radios (with some of the larger ones pulling ALOT more power then any audio system you will put in a civic, think about a fire dept moble command truck). We didnt even keep 0gauge wire in the shop b/c it was never really needed, Exp when you can run 2 smaller power wires for much cheeper then running 0gauge. But then again, what Do I know, i just studies lighting and sound system design for theatres in college (wich those amps draw even more power than any veichle can handle, i know, diff type of thing, but i still have to design the power source for these things as well when i design a system). Plus I have been install car audio since 1995, and police lighting and 2 way radios since 2000. Plus, did i say I'm a FCC licends radio operator, witch means i had to take many test on electrical systems (FCC id KF4ZZE)

is it me, or does the story change a little???
dude, ill tell u what
anyone can go to college a breeze through, and yes most people should never put a second battery in their car... in fact most that win comps have only 1 battery
BUT they do have upgraded wires and alternators
160.1 decibels is pretty loud but i have personally seen a few more than that lol

what a person NEEDS in their new civic IS an upgraded alternator, because its never gonna handle another 40-80 amps when it can only produce enough amps for the current needs of the car (which in our case is about 120 amps)
also on TOP of that, if your car has a 90 amp alternator as does my gfs, and you add an 80 amp system, think about the wear and tear to an alternator which is always FULLY taxed???
our civic comes with a 120 amp alternator
anyone putting a medium end system in can expect at least 80 amps of draw from their new system. (again depending on what items are being used)
if your car is putting out 120 to start with, u can almost expect it to be using 3/4s of that ALREADY!!!!

and the alternator puts out at around 14.4 on most vehicles (14.6 on mine)
and your battery stores at 12 volts.... so do the math and ull see that dipping down into your battery means extra strain for your WHOLE system it just CANT handle.

unless your putting in 1 150 RMS sub and keeping stock speakers and headunit, expect there to be strain to a system at full blast.... as for me i drive around with the system loud because thats how i like my music... ill be deaf by the time im 30 but thats my choice

also i never ASKED for your credentials, i just asked you to not give advice when u cant get you "what ive done" story straight.....

:yeahthat:

people WILL most likely need 4 gauge wire, some 1/0 2 gauge is perfect for most

 

[tda1337]

Oh and if you were SOOOOO good at audio... ud know to mention that your running RMS wattage, not PEAK
but thats right.... u won a competition right?
thought so

hope that FCC registration works out for you!
sure isnt helping your stance with me

 

[ethlar]

OK, tda1337 and djdisturbed, whatever is going on here needs to end now, because a thread filled with people bickering and attacking each other provides no useful information to anyone, so please both of you be mature and drop it.

 

[djdisturbed]

OK, tda1337 and djdisturbed, whatever is going on here needs to end now, because a thread filled with people bickering and attacking each other provides no useful information to anyone, so please both of you be mature and drop it.

ok ill stop, you posted while i was typing....

 

[djdisturbed]

people WILL most likely need 4 gauge wire, some 1/0 2 gauge is perfect for most

:yeahthat: EXACTLY!!!!!!! (not saying this sarcasticly (sp)) very much agreeeing with you!!! )

 

[k__dam]

Step 3

Remove clip over your trunk lock, and remove the panels, be carful of the center pillar, inside it is the airbag sensor(not that you could set it off but if you damage it it might not work when you want it) and remove your rear panels, now you can either pull the seat out or just push the wire through the space into the trunk.

there is a space to run the wire when this is removed,

I need help, on this step, after i put the door sill back, i noticed my trunk lock on the trunk lid/fuel fill door opener doesn't work anymore.

Anyone else encountered such problems?

When i turn the key, it clicks but it doesnt lock the trunk :SHOCKED:

 

[tda1337]

ouchies, i havent had that problem, check the cables and the lock itself!

 

[Suthie90]

How many feet of power wire did you run?

 

[thedrod]

Great information. Just picked up a 2009 Civic and will be utilizing this information.

 

[Eternal Serenity]

Sorry,for my question mb i miss when read all posts, can u answer what the size and how long is power wire?thank U

 

[Eternal Serenity]

Sooooryy nottt sizeeee))))) only length..

 

[blue boxer]

I need help, on this step, after i put the door sill back, i noticed my trunk lock on the trunk lid/fuel fill door opener doesn't work anymore.

Anyone else encountered such problems?

When i turn the key, it clicks but it doesnt lock the trunk :SHOCKED:

Check the plastic tabs in the trim ,i had a hard time geting them to alighn back in the valet key lock part.


Thanks SkunkSpray for this most vauluable post!

I have one question? The Airbag sensor mentioned in the center piller , i ran my wire throught the piller not even knowing it was there . Is there a way you do or dont run the power wire through there? I do want my airbags to work properly if im ever in an acident.

 

[Ajv89]

is anyone using a LOC i saw a thread in here on how its installed to the pos stock sub but i need better pics!

 

[Wreckus]

I just did this install on an '07 ex. The panel below was a giant pain in the ass to re-attach with 4 gauge wire.. I had to pop open the white wire guides and cram the power cable in there in order to get it to successfully snap back on. Even then the trunk key cover doesn't QUIIIITE snap on all the way (the bottom two clips come out, very very minor thing)

Sorry,for my question mb i miss when read all posts, can u answer what the size and how long is power wire?thank U

I know this is an old question, but if anybody was still wondering... I used ~20ft of wire and there is about 3 feet left over in the trunk. I also trimmed about 8in-1ft when I was installing the fuse.

Right now I just have the fuse zip tied to the positive battery cable... anybody have a better mounting location? Its a kicker fuse so it is pretty massive :<

 

[tda1337]

try going 1/0 kicker like i did
center console was the only way. and u have to use a dremel to make a divet at the bottom of the back of it