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Discussion Starter #1
Which brand and model of (front) brake pads would you recommend for a track day at Streets of Willow or Big Willow?

I'm going to streets of willow for a track day with my 8th gen Si this year, hopefully in Feb, and then Big Willow later.

This will be my first time going to Streets of Willow. I did a couple track days at different tracks, but I doubt I would go very for my time. I have stock Si brake setup with Hawk HPS at the front which faded one time at a track, and I certainly don't want that to happen again. Would hawk blue 9012 be sufficient at Streets of Willow with a Si? Would HT-10 or DTC-60 be overkill or waste of money on a stock Si brake setup at Streets of Willow or Big Willow?
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Need brade pads with a set of Advan AD08 tires for track only, and switch back to HPS for DD. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have read a lot of good review for DTC-60. Is it worth it to have DTC-60 with stock Si setup? Wondering if DTC-60 would kill my stock Si rotor in one track day...

Is Streets of Willow brake intensive such that stock Si brake with HPS is just asking to fade and run off the track (dirt/desert)?
 

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Rotors are a dirt cheap wear item, and any aggressive pad is going to tear them up. Bring an extra set with you so that you can just slap them in when you change out your pads at the track if you're concerned.

Don't worry about wearing the rotors, worry about having a pad in there that won't fade and thus will keep you from having a brake failure and crashing your car.

You also need high temp brake fluid and stainless steel brake lines if you are going to heat up your brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is DTC-60 functional going to/from track/home? I plan to install them and bed in them a few days before the track day just to make sure nothing goes wrong...

I have ATE super racing blue but it has been there for about 3 year. Wonder by how much the boiling point has depreciated?
 

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Is DTC-60 functional going to/from track/home? I plan to install them and bed in them a few days before the track day just to make sure nothing goes wrong...

I have ATE super racing blue but it has been there for about 3 year. Wonder by how much the boiling point has depreciated?
Your brake fluid has degraded. It was toast 6 months after you put it in your car.

You could get away driving the DTC-60's on the street, but it's not ideal.

Installing at the track shouldn't take more than 10 minutes a side.
 

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Rotors are a dirt cheap wear item, and any aggressive pad is going to tear them up. Bring an extra set with you so that you can just slap them in when you change out your pads at the track if you're concerned.

Don't worry about wearing the rotors, worry about having a pad in there that won't fade and thus will keep you from having a brake failure and crashing your car.

You also need high temp brake fluid and stainless steel brake lines if you are going to heat up your brakes.
Which rotors would you recommend? I was looking for Napa premium blanks for daily driving and track. Its like $30-35 and haven't seen any bad reviews.
 

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The cheapest rotors you can get.

You are going to destroy them whether they are cheap, or expensive.

I do run the NAPA premium coated rotors on my WRX, and they've actually held up really well through a couple seasons of autocross, where the OE rotors were destroyed pretty quickly.

For everything else I just order the cheapest rotors I can find on eBay.
 

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Blanks will do the trick!

Also keep the rear stock or you can put something like the HPS in the rear but I wouldn't do much more then that as you may lock up the rear with a stronger pad.
 

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Which configuration of Streets are you running? CCW tends to be a bit easier on brakes. WSIR won't be very hard on your brakes either. If you're looking for Streetability 1st, then get Stoptech 309s. Stock feel, high temp range(1300 degrees), relatively low dust, little to no noise even on the street. If you want to be cautious, you can spend the extra scratch for Project Mu Club Racers. The PMU pads are nice in that after they've been bedded in they won't squeak until the transfer layer wears off from non-track driving. It takes me an average of 1-2 hours of city driving to wear the transfer layer off. Assuming you run into little traffic on your 3 hour drive back to SD, the noise should be very manageable. I've used both pads over the last 4 years on track and off. This includes Streets about 7-8 times and WSIR 4 times.
 

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You mentioned you got hps to over heat once. Would hp+ be something you would consider. It seems like this is more of a daily that tracks if i am not mistaken.
 

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You mentioned you got hps to over heat once. Would hp+ be something you would consider. It seems like this is more of a daily that tracks if i am not mistaken.
Hawk HPS is basically a stock replacement pad. They are no better than the pad Honda put on these cars at the factory.

Hawk HP+ is amazing for providing the ultimate amount of friction. It outgrips basically any other pad, even at low brake temps, but the trade off is that it heats up very quickly, and doesn't have the resistance to overheating or fading. So they are not suitable for the track.

You need to look at the Hawk DTC line or similar if you want a good, safe, pad to run on the track and abuse without fear.
 

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Hawk HPS is basically a stock replacement pad. They are no better than the pad Honda put on these cars at the factory.

Hawk HP+ is amazing for providing the ultimate amount of friction. It outgrips basically any other pad, even at low brake temps, but the trade off is that it heats up very quickly, and doesn't have the resistance to overheating or fading. So they are not suitable for the track.

You need to look at the Hawk DTC line or similar if you want a good, safe, pad to run on the track and abuse without fear.
this is the second time I have heard from someone here that the hp+ cant handle the track. It's very cool to meet people that are that much faster than me. I have to admit rather humbly that in all my time tracking I have never been able to fade my hawk hp+ ( i know im really not that fast). I really hope I can meet some of you guys out there if you guys do socal track events so I can hopefully learn from you guys and do some track events. Also would like to see how you guys have your civics set up to get ideas for my current project. I am happy there are track guys here who push this hard :dance:
 

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testify hit the nail on the head the first time. Stoptech being rated at 1300 degrees is laughable. Im pretty sure they caught on fire last time I tried tracking them (that is not an exaggeration, I melted the backing plate too). HPS will be useless and HP+ is ok for slower tracks if you have a close to stock car. DTC60 is where its at. carbotech XP10, EBC yellow are ok too.If you are serious, you really need to swap pads at the track. If you want something that will stop your car properly at the track but still be pleasant on the street it doesn't exist yet.

TLDR: DTC60

If you insist on having something streetable and dont want to change trackside. HAWK has a new compound called street/race also known as DTC30. they work in cold and will probably be ok if you dont hit 120mph+ they are better than HPS, HP+ and Stoptech.
 

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Thats my experiences in past few years will stock caliper at track
Start from the best in my opinion
1 pmu 999 high initial and absolutely no fade. But expensive
2 dtc 70 little lower intial than 999 , acceptable price. Kill discs fast wear fast. Max 4 lapping day
3 dtc 60 almost the same as 70 , just lower intial
4 carbotech xp24 very nice on disc but less braking power than hawh pad(current using)
5 carbotech rp2 very long lasting pad, good at mid to slow track
6 hp+ i will say don't use it at track. Feel high initial on street. But it will fade after few laps.
7 stock pad 1 track day will kill a set of brand new pad

For the rear, i always use hp+
 

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Id be looking for something just under Hawk DTC60/70 performance, they eat about 1/3 of a rotor at a track day,. I run em for Time attack and they are awesome if your running 50 utq tread wear like an AO50 or slick but if your running AD08R or similar step back to something like a Dixcel RA, which are close in perf but kinder on your rotors, I use these on the street and they pull up under hard punishment. Not sure about availability but a very premium Jap spec pad

Dixcel Australia - RA Type
 
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