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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, got a problem here.

I noticed this today, but when I got home from picking up pizza, I noticed that my right wheel in the back is squealing a bit too much when the car creeps a bit (that's when I go very slow on the brake pedal). I've had concerns with this for almost a full year, and have changed the rear brake pads due to the car smell/heat in the back. Sure enough, it's the rear right. Putting my hand near the wheel and comparing it to the left side, it's way hotter on the right wheel. I know something isn't right.

I also have concerns with a wheel bearing noise coming from 1 wheel (whining over 40+ MPH, and not sure which wheel is it coming from). This was right after a valve adjustment job where the car got quieter when accelerating. Not sure if this problem could be related to it, but I have heard that a bad wheel bearing can get very hot when they are in use.

When flooring the car (which I had to do today) it was very sluggish to pick up speed from a stop. I'm suspecting a sticky caliper could be the culprit.

If it turns out to be a sticky caliper, and need to bleed the brakes after - how will I do it when the front left bleeder valve is snapped flush? Just bleed the rear side?

I need help (fast) before something bad happens to the rear side of the car. I already see paint flaking off the bumper due to the wheel getting super hot. Either way, the bumper needs to be replaced. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.


Right wheel looking a bit orange due to the heat, and the brake pad material:
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I would guess the caliper pins are sticking or the pads are hanging up in the caliper bracket. Did you replace the pad hardware?

Rear wheel bearings are pretty easy to replace (unlike the fronts). Although a bad wheel bearing shouldn't cause a lot of heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
UPDATE: It's confirmed that it's a CALIPER problem. I lifted both wheels and sure enough, the right side had tons of drag - it was hard to spin. I'm removing the caliper and inspecting it this Tuesday. I hope it's just the caliper pins that needs some attention.

I also touched the lug nuts after a highway drive, and they were hot to the touch. The good wheel had no heat on the lug nuts. Possible wheel bearing issue as well? I don't remember if I did swap out the hardware. I went with the AutoZone brake pads so they usually come with hardware. If it's the wheel bearing, i'm not stressing as it's easy to replace.

I made a quick youtube video so you guy can see what i'm talking about:

 

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UPDATE: It's confirmed that it's a CALIPER problem. I lifted both wheels and sure enough, the right side had tons of drag - it was hard to spin. I'm removing the caliper and inspecting it this Tuesday. I hope it's just the caliper pins that needs some attention.

I also touched the lug nuts after a highway drive, and they were hot to the touch. The good wheel had no heat on the lug nuts. Possible wheel bearing issue as well? I don't remember if I did. I went with the AutoZone brake pads so they usually come with hardware. If it's the wheel bearing, i'm not stressing as it's easy to replace.

I made a quick youtube video so you guy can see what i'm talking about:

Yea, i would inspect that caliper.
You could check around the piston area too, for any cracks in the boot. A bad caliper would definitely cause the wheel to get very got.

I doubt a wheel bearing would necessarily have drag to be bad, like shown in the Vid.
You would probably hear it before it wants to seize up enough to burn the paint of your wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Everything is all good. Caliper was seized and replaced it with a manufactured unit. Thanks for the helpful suggestions. Tomorrow I will be buying another caliper to replace the sheared off bleeder valve unit so I can bleed all 4 lines and get it over with.
 

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Everything is all good. Caliper was seized and replaced it with a manufactured unit. Thanks for the helpful suggestions. Tomorrow I will be buying another caliper to replace the sheared off bleeder valve unit so I can bleed all 4 lines and get it over with.
have you tried using a bolt extractor to remove that snapped bleeder? you could still salvage that caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
have you tried using a bolt extractor to remove that snapped bleeder? you could still salvage that caliper.
I'll give it a shot actually, although I have nothing to lose at this point. The plan was to buy another caliper for the front.
 

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I'll give it a shot actually, although I have nothing to lose at this point. The plan was to buy another caliper for the front.
If your gonna try that..
I recommend grabbing a torch and heating the outer area so the outer threads expand.
Be ready with the extractor before the bleeder valve reaches the same temp as the area your heating.
As well as giving it a couple licks to loosen up threads if possible.👍
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If your gonna try that..
I recommend grabbing a torch and heating the outer area so the outer threads expand.
Be ready with the extractor before the bleeder valve reaches the same temp as the area your heating.
As well as giving it a couple licks to loosen up threads if possible.👍
I already bought the torch/extractors for the job. I also bought 3 new OEM bleeders to replace the other rusted ones.
 

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Dude you were lucky to catch that before it went bad, I only realised mine was sticking after a quick blast and it smoked my pads 😳 I really thought the car was on fire and was getting ready to call the FD, luckily no harm done other than a quick release, regrease and new pad set 👍🏻
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, saving the caliper with the broken bleeder screw wasn't a success. The extractor broke and the bleeder didn't undo itself (even with heat applied to it). I had to go get a remanufactured caliper from AutoZone again. This car is getting expensive to fix............

I was able to get the other 2 remaining off with the torch and quenching with Water.
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Well, saving the caliper with the broken bleeder screw wasn't a success. The extractor broke and the bleeder didn't undo itself (even with heat applied to it). I had to go get a remanufactured caliper from AutoZone again. This car is getting expensive to fix............

I was able to get the other 2 remaining off with the torch and quenching with Water.
View attachment 243514 View attachment 243515
Oh yea..
That joker looks like its served its purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Closing this thread. I replaced the front caliper today and was able to bleed all sides after that. Brake pedal feels amazing with a strong bite - and the car is very happy. Thanks for the suggestions everyone!
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Closing this thread. I replaced the front caliper today and was able to bleed all sides after that. Brake pedal feels amazing with a strong bite - and the car is very happy. Thanks for the suggestions everyone!
View attachment 243526 View attachment 243527
It's good practice to wrap the brake line with a piece of bike inner tube (or any similar material) first before clamping with a vice grip to prevent damage.
 
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