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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How do you deal with this:
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber

I'm planning on wheel brushing and sanding the flat surface, poke out as much of what is between the two sheets of metal with something sharp, super acid self etching primer, seam sealer for the gap between the metal sheets, more primer and then paint.
I see this spot going on many 8th gens and body shops are shrugging their shoulders. Any past XP shared is appreciated.
 

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I might skip the seam sealer. I'd worry about permanently trapping in rust and/or moisture. After paint I would soak the whole area with a product like Fluid Film and then reapply at least yearly.

Also, if you have access to a sand blaster that would get rid of the rust better than a wire wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There is no doing this without sealer. There are multiple sheets and bends of metals meeting in this area:
Sleeve Wood Gas Electric blue Metal

Sleeve Wood Denim Personal protective equipment Rock-climbing equipment


Once this metal is treated and painted sealer would need to go over all of it like it did from the factory. Unfortunately its spread a lot more than I anticipated, all up around the filler neck area too. Only a year since I got this, but I notice them more on the road now and it seem the wheel arch/rocker junction is particularly prone to corrosion. It will be a best effort to stem the spread as much as possible and try to control with Krown type of coatings every year.
Religious item Artifact Font Metal Cross
 

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How do you deal with this: View attachment 247131
I'm planning on wheel brushing and sanding the flat surface, poke out as much of what is between the two sheets of metal with something sharp, super acid self etching primer, seam sealer for the gap between the metal sheets, more primer and then paint.
I see this spot going on many 8th gens and body shops are shrugging their shoulders. Any past XP shared is appreciated.
Mine is only rusted on the very bottom on both sides where dirt likes to collect and top inside of the wheel arch. I found a smaller body shop that quoted me $700-800.00 whereas the larger shops would charge in the thousands. I'm getting it repaired next month. But remember that rust=car cancer, you can try to get rid of it but it'll return especially since we live in the rust belt. (The spot inside my wheel arch was suspect so I made a vandalism claim-yes, I still carry full coverage insurance and it'll cover the rental while the shop fixes it). The 8th gen drivetrain is solid so I think it's worth it to try to take care of the body. Check out the ammonyc guy for detailing/rust fighting tips.
 
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