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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Just wondering since its a common issue on our cars, the solution is posted all over the forums but its just a small irritation, previous owner may have fixed it for ya
he bypassed something for sure tho but ill check the axle tomorrow because no boots are torn at all or anything and when driving and turning it feels ok to me
thats why im thinking it has to be the rack and pinion
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Just wondering since its a common issue on our cars, the solution is posted all over the forums but its just a small irritation, previous owner may have fixed it for ya
whats the issue on the 3rd gear and what is the solution to fix it or what part is it needs to be swapped? just for future reference.
 

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Third gear grind, the cmc in our generation car has a fluid damper valve which decreases excess ware on the clutch, essentially slowing the release of the clutch without user input. This damper causes the clutch to not fully disengage sometimes for tighter gears (third gear being the culprit) which means you will notice the shifter go forward like it is trying to get into gear, you'll feel the synchro gear but not be able to smoothly shift into gear. The solution is a ktuned or newer oem CMC and slave cylinder, I prefer the ktuned since I heard it allows for a quicker more natural clutch release, like if you ever drove a wrx or focus st where the clutch actually needs to slowly and steadily be released. Another short term solution which I found works is a combination of some of these: short shift adapter by skunk2 (It has a screw you can tighten so the selection of gears is more specific, doesn't completely rid the problem but manages it well), Synchromesh gear fluid (Tranny fluid change to a synchromesh fluid [AMSOIL is recommended but gm synchromesh also works]), or adjusting the clutch pedal throw (This just fixes the engagement point and disengagement point, meaning you can bring the disengagement point up a little bit so without pedal to floor completely, the clutch is disengaged, helps with third gear grind a slight bit)
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Third gear grind, the cmc in our generation car has a fluid damper valve which decreases excess ware on the clutch, essentially slowing the release of the clutch without user input. This damper causes the clutch to not fully disengage sometimes for tighter gears (third gear being the culprit) which means you will notice the shifter go forward like it is trying to get into gear, you'll feel the synchro gear but not be able to smoothly shift into gear. The solution is a ktuned or newer oem CMC and slave cylinder, I prefer the ktuned since I heard it allows for a quicker more natural clutch release, like if you ever drove a wrx or focus st where the clutch actually needs to slowly and steadily be released. Another short term solution which I found works is a combination of some of these: short shift adapter by skunk2 (It has a screw you can tighten so the selection of gears is more specific, doesn't completely rid the problem but manages it well), Synchromesh gear fluid (Tranny fluid change to a synchromesh fluid [AMSOIL is recommended but gm synchromesh also works]), or adjusting the clutch pedal throw (This just fixes the engagement point and disengagement point, meaning you can bring the disengagement point up a little bit so without pedal to floor completely, the clutch is disengaged, helps with third gear grind a slight bit)
Planning in future to buy a lot from Kseries website :) i already got some roll center adjuster ball joints :cool::cool::cool: just didn't want to install it until i fix that rack or axle or hoping its just an endlink on the swaybar
 

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To me it would make more sense honestly that it would be on the sway bar, since that is a loaded part whereas the rack and pinion is not (loaded meaning it takes weight of the car), and I presume its a bit less expensive
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
To me it would make more sense honestly that it would be on the sway bar, since that is a loaded part whereas the rack and pinion is not (loaded meaning it takes weight of the car), and I presume its a bit less expensive
for sure ill double check tomorrow my friend :) and merry christmas i hope you have a great night and thank thank thank youu for taking your time to help me out and now i got everything figured out i hope its something small and not the rack and pinion and if so oh boy this will be the last thing on this car to fix it completely other than new future parts like a new CMC and master cylinder as you said but thats planned so im very excited for this car to look new again :)
 

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Merry Christmas to you as well! and I would always recommend fixing the broken things before upgrading parts in hope to avoid non-existent problems, the cmc and slave cylinder kit is about the same price as a steering rack and pinion
 

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I had the same problem as you, tightening the steering rack bolts fixed it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·

I had the same problem as you, tightening the steering rack bolts fixed it.
but that would mean i would have to drop the whole subframe??
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
GUYS GUYS!!! i found it i found it OMG its the engine mount on the bottom i can see the rubber mount on it is busted and im pretty ticked because the previous owner just newly installed this new racing motor mount so i checked the rest of the motor mount and every one of them seem A.OK except the motor mount on the bottom where is literally next to the oil pan and man the rubber is tearing up bad so i have finally found the solution of the clunking noise and thought it was my rack and pinion or cv axle or wheel hub but that was never the case at all, the part is so brand new that i would have never thought it would bust this early. Anyone thinking it could be a bad racing mount the previous owner ordered or he just bought those cheap ones to put it on once i bought the car ? all and all the car is superb im glad its not the rack and pinion just the bottom motor mount needs to be replaced and badabeembadaboom i got a niceeee honda civic si :D!! HAVE A MERRY CHRISTMAS TO YOU ALL!! :)))
 

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Heyyy! Congrats on finding the issue, I doubt he got a faulty piece, most likely bought a mount labelled "racing mount" on eBay or something for cheap that seemed professional and strong. If you are looking for recommendations of reliable mounts or mount, I recommend Hasport or K-Tuned if you want a tight, long lasting vibration resistant mount (They are expensive since they are real accredited racing engine mounts). If you aren't going to really worry about what a strong expensive mount will do (or don't know the pros of a solid/expensive mount), buy an oem mount from honda, their oem mounts last a decent time and don't break the bank. I really don't think you are going to push an insane amount of power in your engine to where the torque builds up significantly enough to require a high end mount. It is good news its that part, though, since it seems pretty inexpensive to replace with an oem to at least see if it solves the issue (then decide on whether a higher end one would be worth it by how it feels)
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
im probably going solid or 94 A because of the stage 2 clutch in the motor and of course to add strength because my roads in the Dc, maryland, virginia areas are bumpy unfortunately :/ but yessir working on getting the parts on K series paarts.com now :)) merry christmas eve everyone and to you tombid !🤶🤶🤶🎄🎄🎄
 

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Yeah I straight sheered the main motor mount clean off the one with the two bolts where it mounted to the block in a 07 si sucked broke the mount busted my belt the pulley ground into the mount some it was fucked now the motor is sitting at an angle trying to figure how to get it back where it supposed to be so I can fix it
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Yeah I straight sheered the main motor mount clean off the one with the two bolts where it mounted to the block in a 07 si sucked broke the mount busted my belt the pulley ground into the mount some it was fucked now the motor is sitting at an angle trying to figure how to get it back where it supposed to be so I can fix it
for sure bro hope your lady gets back in track because these ladies are a beauty the motor and pipe exhaust sounds crazy too hope ur is same or louder lol
 

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The rack and pinion for our cars is all electric. It saves weight, due to not having a pump for hydraulic fluid like most other cars do. But it’s also a double edge sword. Meaning, it can become uncalibrated. My ‘09 sedan used to pull to the right pretty hard, and at highway speeds, it would shake pretty hard.
I took it in to the dealership and they gave it an alignment, and I was on my way.
Then my car still pulled to the right they next day. Dealership took another look, and they saw that that rack calibration was all out of wack. They recalibrated (thanks Garus) and it works fine ever since.
However, if I do turn the wheel all the way left, I’ll hear a nasty noise too.

TL;DR take it to a shop and see if the rack needs to be recalibrated. I would hate to replace mine, or for you to replace yours. They are like $600. They ain’t cheap, and I would not put an aftermarket one on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
The rack and pinion for our cars is all electric. It saves weight, due to not having a pump for hydraulic fluid like most other cars do. But it’s also a double edge sword. Meaning, it can become uncalibrated. My ‘09 sedan used to pull to the right pretty hard, and at highway speeds, it would shake pretty hard.
I took it in to the dealership and they gave it an alignment, and I was on my way.
Then my car still pulled to the right they next day. Dealership took another look, and they saw that that rack calibration was all out of wack. They recalibrated (thanks Garus) and it works fine ever since.
However, if I do turn the wheel all the way left, I’ll hear a nasty noise too.

TL;DR take it to a shop and see if the rack needs to be recalibrated. I would hate to replace mine, or for you to replace yours. They are like $600. They ain’t cheap, and I would not put an aftermarket one on.
ok and hope is not too much to ask but how much they charge for alignment at honda dealerships? or any cost and fees they charge for checking the car out after i install the rear motor mount :)?
 
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