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R18 NST pulley kit DIY

131314 Views 340 Replies 103 Participants Last post by  torresalcien
" This is a complete DIY installation guide for the 3 piece NST kit from NST - NonStopTuning "


NST PART NUMBER: NST21915KIT
NST - The Leader In 8th Gen Civic Pulleys






1.- park your car and make sure you have room to play whit the car


2.- jack up the car and take the wheel off and for better access turn the whe steering wheel all the way to the right


3.- disconect the battery(just for safe...)

4.- remove the 2 lil clips that hold the crank pulley cover


5.- unplug the crank pulley cover from the inner fender, it doesnt remove completly, cus it goes from fender to fender like the Si one...


6.- now you have acces to the crank pulley....


7.-open the hood and take a look to the left side (if youre in front of the car) so you can see the alternator and the pulley, and if you look closer... just under the alt pulley is the water pump pulley



8.- to remove the belt, first you have to locate the tensioner, its the big silver part you can see in front of the pulley, or you can just remove the alt first... its the same... i removed the alternator


9.- remove all the connections of the alt, they are 2 harnesses over the alt with a black cover... and another cable that goes in the black bracket over the alt


10.- to remove the alt you need to unscrew 3 bolts one over the alt(easy access), other in front of the alt (easy access), and the last one is under the alt(you need large socket[a lil difficult access])

the last one is the one that holds the belt tensioner(easy access[when you remove this, you can remove the belt if you hadnt])


11.- now you can remove the alt pulley, a friend helped me, he held the pulley and I used the impact wrench to remove it. note: he only used his MECHANICS gloves to hold the pulley

12.- put the new pulley and tighten it with the impact wrench
**i forgot to take a pic of the NST installed... but it looks exactly as the one of the Si**
so i use this pic of the K20Z3 NST pulley kit DIY


13.- at this point the alt pulley is done... but dont reinstall the alt... cus you need that space in the engine to get a good access to the water pump


14.- you can see that the water pump pulley haves 3 bolts on it, it was a lil difficult to unscrew those because the pulley turns freely so you have to secure it, or hold it, i tried to hold it with my hands and my friend tried to uncrew the bolts from under the car, we could unscrew 2... but the third was so dificult, so we just discover a new method to lock the pulley... you need a screw driver (not too big... but not to small)

you have to put the screw driver in one of the holes of the stock wp pulley so the screw driver passes from one side to other, like the pic and now you can losen the bolts on the wp,



15.- then, when you have removed the 3 bolts, take care and hold the wp... cus it can fall so hold it whit your hand, then remove it and place the NST one, and reinstall the bolts


16.- now you can reinstall the alt, just screw all the bolts you unscrewd.... one over the alt, 2 hiden on one side of the alt and the tensioner one that is in front of the alt


17.- well, now the crank one... you need a 180+ lb/ft torque impact wrench for this.... cus its very tight, and a 2nd person who is gonna shift in 5th gear and press the brake(this is to lock the crank), and just unscrew the bolt and remove the stock pulley, i didnt use the pulley remover tool, but if you have it, use it... be carefull to not loose the KEY of the pulley cus you need it and its a small piece
**as my impact wrench wasnt powerfull to remove the bolt, i ask for my dealer to install it... and they dont let me take pictures(cus they doesnt charge me anything, and doesnt want that his manager know about it)** but uninstalled its like the one on the Si

and this is the pulley key... same in both engines


18.- install the NST pulley, make sure it fit and dont force it too much, when installed it has to spin freely, try that... if its not spinning its not installed propertly, remove and try again


19.- re install the belt, here i drew a diagram of the belt


20.- move the tensioner until the other person places the belt in position(the belt can be K070760 or K060760[if you got the K060760, just check that the belt is aligned propertly on all the pulleys, if you get the K070760 that’s even better... it fits 100% perfect])

21.- drive it

22.- love it

23.- share it

24.- NST FTW!!!


by: el_ben2, Marcelo(my sponsor and owner of RPMSperformance.com) and my dealer
whit the cooperation of Mike(NST owner): some grammar and spelling corrections
pics by: el_ben2 and MADDOGSI
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im ordering these in 6 weeks maybe 4 weeks thanks for the write up. this is the last part for me to get till they come out with something.
ABM JDM said:
Great job w/ the DIY... I am VERY tempted to get the kit and do this myself, but after reading everything on these forums I could about it, I am uncertain... mainly b/c there are no dynos or any info on long terms effects for R18s yet. Particularly the dynos: some NST supporters have said that dynos are coming, but it's been many months and nothing yet, which makes me wonder whether they did some dynos but got disappointing results, or are hesitant for some reason, or...? Most posts about them are quite positive though, and I am still highly considering them.
I think a lot of people are like me, they think about the dyno. They want to do the dyno, but don't feel like actually taking the time. I should do one when I install the RT cat and CT header to get a "baseline" prior to the Hondata reflash and NST pulleys. The dynos I have seen, have been very positive and with the way they are bending over backwards to give support to the Si and R18s, it's worth the cost.
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8civic said:
The Civic belt tensioner is an automatic one.



Well i finally found the belt tensioner indicator! Actually your pics are very close. At the end of that long bolt thing (which is circled in pic 1) is a sort of squared off corner (in the second pic you can see it). Thats the indicator mark (its more like a point of reference). Now the funny part is that according to the manual there is no actual limit - like on the k series it should fall between part a and part b to be in spec. No, actually you keep an eye on it while the engine is idling (a/c off) and see and I quote, " if the position of the indicator fluctuates or moves a lot". Thats kinda vague. I checked mine out (21,000 miles) and at first (the engine was cold) it seemed to move a little then it stopped moving so much. So i guess its ok. So basically this hydraulic (you can see it sticking out toward the front direction, it looks like a mini shock absorber-you can see it as well in pic 2 - it has a loose bolt going thru it) is keeping the tension on the belt so there is no real adjustment.

in case you were wondering why i even care, its that checking this adjustment (check drive belt) is part of the b,1,2 service that i have coming up.
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Hondahawaii777 said:
Does anyone know that BELT size? ...or at least the numbers on it (so I can look it up)
K070760 at any local auto part store
06civictx said:
K070760 at any local auto part store

Is this for the SI?


It sounds like most of these posting are for the R18...are they the same?
I noticed in step 17, to remove the crank you have to lock the gear in 5th. I have an automatic so would i have to do the same or do i just skip that part because the parking brake locks the gears? Also how long did it all take you? I don't have an impact wrench...and it get one is like $200+. I went to mechanic to ask how much for the install and they said its $200. I don't know whether to buy the tool and install it myself or bring it to the mechanic to do it.
I'm just curious how different it feels. I mean to me the R18 seems pretty peppy but I drove a 97 Accord before this. So I want some tangible facts/opinions of what the difference in feel is like before I go and spend the dime.
bump.

is it really worth it? how hard is the installation?
ok so I have these on my R18 and they are by far the best mod I’ve done, next to taking out the hug resonator on the magnaflow exhaust and putting a smaller one on haha sounds better, I recommend it


but when I start the car up if I let it sit for a couple house and I turn the wheel the car will make this really weird sound like umm well it sounds like birds chirping, but like birds that are on crack chirping. If I drive the car for a while then it will go away and no problem, but it only happens when I turn the wheel when I start up the car after its been sitting.


any idea anybody?
Mine does the chirp too if I turn the wheel after it's been sitting in my garage for awhile. My noise, however, is the tires "chirping" against the concrete floor....

jerij
well see when i bough the first belt it was the right length but not rib, it was a 6 instead of 7 and the belt kept coming off track, so i went back to pep boyz and looked for another and all they had in a 7 rib was a 763 so i go it and put it on no problems for a while but then it started doin that noise


no i special ordered a 7 rib 760 belt, i have a feeling that its the belt tensor rattelin against the engine
well see when i bough the first belt it was the right length but not rib, it was a 6 instead of 7 and the belt kept coming off track, so i went back to pep boyz and looked for another and all they had in a 7 rib was a 763 so i go it and put it on no problems for a while but then it started doin that noise


no i special ordered a 7 rib 760 belt, i have a feeling that its the belt tensor rattelin against the engine
Where did you special order this belt from? I did many google searches and it looks like it's a non-existent belt size. I've had an issue with my k060760 being noisy when it's cold outside. It might be the belt tensioner, but I'm not sure. I was hoping that a k070760 would help fix the problem so I don't have to make a custom idler pulley or something in order to use a k070763 or k070755, neither of which work because I've tried.
i order my pulley kit but i havent got no tracking number or anything
is any other sites to purchase these besides from the nst homepage cuz some are sold out and onlee the crank is available??
is nst a good brand for the pullys? which brand whould you recommend?
im thinking about getting some
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