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Most of the pictures dont show up on my tablet, phone or pc. Is it just the one mount that ever needs to be replaced? Are the others solid rubber or something?
 

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Most of the pictures dont show up on my tablet, phone or pc. Is it just the one mount that ever needs to be replaced? Are the others solid rubber or something?
The OEM side engine mount is hydraulic (filled with oil). Aftermarket ones come in solid rubber or hydraulic.

There's also a rear transmission mount, but I'm not sure of the details on that. I think mine needs to be replaced...my car vibrates. :cornmad:
 

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The OEM side engine mount is hydraulic (filled with oil). Aftermarket ones come in solid rubber or hydraulic.

There's also a rear transmission mount, but I'm not sure of the details on that. I think mine needs to be replaced...my car vibrates. :cornmad:
Oh cool thanks!
 

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So for replacing this engine mount, the service manual tells you to loosen the mounts on the driver side (have to take off air cleaner and also loosen a bolt underneath car). Then you tighten the new engine mount and then re-tighten the stuff you loosened on driver side. I'm not sure of the reason, but there must be one?
 

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I'm getting ready to do this. Two questions:

1) Does anyone have experience on whether it worth to do all the hassle with the factory recommended mount-tightening sequence, that is, after replacing the side engine mount, loosen all mounts, then tighten the side engine mount bracket, then the transmission mount, then the lower torque rod, then finally the upper torque rod?

2) Also, the factory recommended sequence for the side engine mount replacement prescribes replacing some bolts/nuts, I assume these are torque-to-yield. Similarly, the sequence for transmission mount or lower torque rod replacement also prescribes replacing the respective bolts, so these are also torque-to-yield. But then, these transmission mount and lower torque rod bolts are the exact same ones that are going to be loosened and re-tigthened during the side engine mount replacement sequence (but in this case, without replacing them). This makes me a little nervous... Anybody can explain why these bolts are replaced when their mount is replaced but not when they are just loosened and retightened to replace another mount?
 

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They are probably self locking nuts and after you torqued them and remove them they lose their self locking feature thus increasing the chance of failure.
 

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The nuts are designed to stretch a little when first torqued. Similar to head bolts. That's why its recommended to use locktite on the threads. Also why its easy for these bolts to cross thread.

Also for anyone who is curious the tightening sequence is important in keeping the mounts lined up correctly allowing them to work better and last longer.
 

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^ You made the right choice going with OEM mount. I recently switched out my eBay to OEM also.

The eBay one is too harsh when the car is cold soaked overnight. Felt like I'm driving a POS for 20 min. until the mount warms and soften up. Now with OEM mount my car feels like day one no matter how cold it gets.

My eBay mount is also for sale if anyone wants it. It should be fine as long as you live in southern states.

FIY: I found the genuine OEM mount for $170ish on eBay.
Im having the same experience myself. I finally found the non hydro cheep mount. And put that in hoping it would be a little stiffer and not count as a mod for Auto X. Ya the engine vibes fill the car real good until it warms up. For anyone who has to deal with winter this might not be the way to go. Takes a long time for it to heat up and get soft in the morning. If your commute is only a half hour or so you might not feel it get smooth by the time you get to work lol.
 

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the hydraulic motor mount was bad and once i replaced it. it fixed all the rattles and weird noises my car was making. definitely feels like i''m driving a new car again lol
 

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Just did this today with my brothers help it was pretty easy if you have the right tools. I got the dea motor mount from rock auto for like $40. I wanted to get oem or duralast but I don't have that kind of money right now and I need something to hold me off until I get more money. So far it's doing good but it's definitely not quality also the bolts were kinda hard to make fit.
 

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Just got my Anchor 9280 from RockAuto.

The part was not exactly like the original part. The part was not well made. One of the holes in the top plate did not line up with the nut below when they were welded together so you could not get the bolt started. Five minutes with a dremel tool fixed that.

The rubber cone part was also narrower and taller. I thought with the engine weight on the rubber, it would compress and be in the right place. No luck.

Also I could not get the bolt back into the fender. It was misaligned by about 3/16". Took the mount back out and compared to original again. Turns out the metal part of the Anchor mount was 3/16" taller.

Maybe RockAuto got some reject parts and are selling them so cheap. I know Oreilly's sell the same part for $152 vs. $26 at RockAuto.

I'm thinking about buying from Autozone for $149 with a lifetime warranty.

One shouldn't have to go thru so much trouble to change out the motor mount.
 

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Just got my Anchor 9280 from RockAuto.

The part was not exactly like the original part. The part was not well made. One of the holes in the top plate did not line up with the nut below when they were welded together so you could not get the bolt started. Five minutes with a dremel tool fixed that.

The rubber cone part was also narrower and taller. I thought with the engine weight on the rubber, it would compress and be in the right place. No luck.

Also I could not get the bolt back into the fender. It was misaligned by about 3/16". Took the mount back out and compared to original again. Turns out the metal part of the Anchor mount was 3/16" taller.

Maybe RockAuto got some reject parts and are selling them so cheap. I know Oreilly's sell the same part for $152 vs. $26 at RockAuto.

I'm thinking about buying from Autozone for $149 with a lifetime warranty.

One shouldn't have to go thru so much trouble to change out the motor mount.
Yikes...sorry to hear you had so many problems. I actually got mine on eBay and the fitment was great. The rubber cone part eventually settled, so I had to had some washers to raise the cast aluminum brace up off the mount since it was causing vibrations. It's good now. I definitely wouldn't pay the price that brick and mortar stores are charging though.
 

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On the fence about replacing mine. I'm getting vibration in the cabin while in gear between 1200-1500 rpm. The weird part is the engine mount looks to be in decent condition. The gap between the rubber mount and the upper aluminium brace is still about 4-5 mm and there is no indication of rubbing between the two. On the other hand there is 114k on the car though so that doesn't bode well for arguing to keep it. Thoughts?

What brand are people using? The Anchor part is out in my mind due to the reported fitment issues but the OEM mount is a little rich for my blood.
 
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