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Before anything, try it the way I said before. Im pretty sure that because the old engine mount collapsed, the engine is not where its supposed to be but again, unbolt everythin and put the top bracket in place first, not the side bracket but the one on the engine mount, align it with the holes and put bolts in but do not tighten them too much, then see if the bottom ones align and adjust engine as u see fit. It should be solved by that.


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Good news guys, I tried your method and it worked! Turns out the owner before me bought a different SIDE mount (civic si maybe?) and that was causing it to turn and become crooked. Everything's good and the vibrations gone. Thanks!
 

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I was having some rough vibrations when shifting gears, specifically going into 3rd. I first assumed it was just the cold winter we've had this year, but over the past month it became a lot more frequent.

Changed the side engine mount this weekend and the vibration is completely gone!

I'm not one to wrench much on my car, other than changing my tires from summer to winters. Thanks for this DIY, it was easy to follow for a noob like me!
 

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Thanks for the DIY. It helped me narrow down what was causing the vibration in the Civic. I ordered the part online and received it yesterday. I've attached a picture of it in the post. There are small crack lines (Not actual cracks) in the rubber part. Is this normal, or should I ask the company to send me a new one without any of these cracks?
 

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Thanks for the DIY. It helped me narrow down what was causing the vibration in the Civic. I ordered the part online and received it yesterday. I've attached a picture of it in the post. There are small crack lines (Not actual cracks) in the rubber part. Is this normal, or should I ask the company to send me a new one without any of these cracks?
The hairline surface cracks aren't normal, the original motor mount on my '10 LX 18R doesn't have them. Is that a DEA 4530 motor mount shipped from Amazon? What's the year and model of your car?
 

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Hello, I'm new to the forum and am doing my motor this weekend. It's been needing it for a year. Is there any reason why you NEED to put the car on jack stands? Is it doable with the car on the ground?
 

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Hello, I'm new to the forum and am doing my motor this weekend. It's been needing it for a year. Is there any reason why you NEED to put the car on jack stands? Is it doable with the car on the ground?
You need enough clearance to get a jack under the oil pan to lift the motor slightly. You'll never get the new mount on without raising the engine into position.

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Not related but im trying to make a thread about the civic r1.8 hasport motor mount kit i got the production set put on my car yesterday brain at hasport said they should be ready for public sale in two weeks
 

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Thanks a lot for this write-up, OP! I just finished this repair and it took me about 2 and a half hours. About half of this time was spent removing difficult bolts, and could have been avoided if my socket wrench had more reach (see below).

I have a few small tips for anyone planning to tackle this project:

  • The OP mentions extensions, but this needs to be STRESSED. I was using deep sockets and a 3" extension, but this was not quite enough to get those last two 19mm bolts out holding the mount in place. Because I was not extended enough, I could not clear my wrench from the inside of the car. As you can imagine, this made my life very difficult. If only I had another 3" socket extension, I would have been able to easily remove (and then replace) these bolts.
  • I used the blue MotorKing part, purchased from Amazon for about $45 and it seems to work fine. MotorKing also makes a black part that is about $10 cheaper. I called them up and they said the blue part is heavier duty, for whatever that is worth. I chose to use the OEM cast metal part instead of the MotorKing one, because it is clearly of higher quality.
  • Step 6 is removing the 14mm bolt holding the bracket to the fender. This allows you to maneuver that bracket around so there is room to remove the motor mount. OP says you do not have to actually remove the bracket which is true. I will also add that you do not even need to remove the bolt. Just loosening it allows you to pivot the bracket enough so you can remove the mount.
  • I was a little apprehensive about supporting my engine with only my car jack. Rest assured, that the engine is supported by other mounts as well. When you remove the passenger side mount, the engine will become a little bit wobbly but it is not going anywhere. Using your jack and a piece of wood (I used a 2x4) under the engine oil pan just helps to reduce strain, as well as make sure you can lift the engine up to put in the new engine mount which is correctly taller than the broken mount you are replacing.
  • I would not say this project was difficult, but I would not recommend it to a novice DIYer because you are working in such a cramped space. If you do not have a decent tool collection (of sockets, extensions, etc.) I do not recommend attempting this repair.
 
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