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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
tools needed:
floor jack
jack stands
ratchet
breaker bar/pipe to fit over the ratchet(my method)
14mm socket
17mm socket
10mm socket
19mm socket
19mm wrench
10mm wrench
extension(s)-i lost my foot long extension so i had to use a bunch to make a long one

ok first thing you're gonna need to do is put the car on jack stands up front. then get a block of wood and put it on the floor jack. then position the floor jack with wood under the middle to rear section of the oil pan. jack it up so that the jack is now supporting the weight of the engine for when you remove the mount. after you have this completed please follow along my steps. the pics will be with the new mount put in as i didnt take pic suntil after i had everything removed. *also dont foget to unclip the washer fluid fill neck from the fender area as you will need to move it out of your way to access some bolts with the ratchet. once unclipped simply twist it.




1.remove grounding strap from the motor mount bracket - 10mm bolt(i upgraded mine to 0 gauge wire. if you're stock yours will be much smaller and thats what she said!)


2.remove the 10mm bolt holding the ac line bracket to the body(its the one above the rust spot)



3.remove the 3 17mm bolts holding the torque damper (dog bone)



4.for the bracket connecting the mount to the engine, remove the 17mm bolt on the top of the motor mount then remove the 19mm bolt and nut attached to the engine. this is where the breaker bar/pipe comes in handy. *i used an adjustable wrench and pipe to break loose the 19mm nut*



5. remove the 2 14mm bolts on the bracket connecting the motor mount to the passenger side fender(unclip the ac lines from the clips to help move them around. also put some cloth between the lines and your socket/extensions unless you want to shine them up from the rubbing as you work the bolts out)



6.remove the 14mm bolt holding the bracket to the fender. dont try to remove the bracket its impossible and not necessary. so yeah dont waste your time lol



7.with the brackets out you now can access the 2 17mm bolts attaching the mount to the frame of the car. you need to maneuver the mount a bit to clear the lines to get it out dont be afraid to push some stuff out of your way. be gentle but firm and you'll work it out. (clean up that area a bit while you have everything removed.)


(bolts are under the lines for the ac and power steering fluid. sorry i didnt get a good shot but unless youre really stupid you will be able to locate them - just push some stuff out o fthe way to access them)






8. repeat the steps backwards to put in the new mount. when putting the bracket back on that connects the mount to the engine you will need to jack the motor up a bit to get the bracket to line up correctly since the new mount will correctly sit higher than the busted one. and once all back together you will no longer have the shakes! enjoy!


heres some pics of the bad mount and new mount:




bad mount








as an added bonus:
dealer price: $243 - 12month/12,000mile warrantly(only if dealer installs it) =$$$$$
autozone price $149.99 - lifetime warranty part # 9280 - my choice

RockAuto.com price $48 - $70 you have 3 choices with 3 different warranties

I went with the autozone route cuz of the lifetime warranty and if it busts i just take it out and bring it to the store to get a new one.

If you go the autozone route this is a special order item and will need to be paid for up front. they have no pics in their system of the part which is why i provided the part number. so if you have a busted motor mount this is how to fix it. took me about an hour and a half including the time to gather some tools and find my jackstands. hope this helps anyone looking to do it themselves.
 

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youll get a noticable vibration as the mount no longer will be isolating the engine from the frame, and it will transfer more noise into the cabin.

In extreme cases youll hear and feel the engine slamming or 'popping' when accelerating or decelerating
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
well first thing you will hear is a rattling sound which sounds like it could be something in the exhaust. that developed around 45,000 miles. after awhile it eventually will make the whole car vibrate and shake when u first start it up as it is idling at higher rpms. when you throw it into reverse it gets worse. you can also hear it at low speeds. i replaced it at 69,700 miles. No more vibrations.
 

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Just exactly what I'm looking for.. I think mine is leaking and I hear occasional popping in acceleration and also loud banging sound in a sudden road hump. Subscribed...


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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check the mount, as acuras had an issue where the passanger side motor mount would allow the engine to bounce on the frame when a pot hole or bump was hit.

one bad mount will cause the other mounts to wear quicker
 

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I replaced my side engine mount last night. The two bolts that connect the fender brace to the mount don't fit in the new mount even though it is a Honda part. What gives? The service manual doesn't call for replacing these bolts. Do the new mounts need a different size bolt? It is the 14mm I am talking about.

BTW - you also need to torque the bolts correctly with a torque wrench. Take a look in the service manual for the right specs.

Side Engine Mount Replacement (K20Z)
 

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I am going to do the busted motor mount in my inlaw's 2008 coupe. Anyone use a DEA-brand replacement mount? if so, how'd you find it's performance?
 

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hi, i would like to inject my torque mount..
i got a few questions:
1. how many torque mount / dog bone in Civic R18A?
2. where it located?

sorry for my english.
thanks
 

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I am going to do the busted motor mount in my inlaw's 2008 coupe. Anyone use a DEA-brand replacement mount? if so, how'd you find it's performance?
Replaced their with the DEA piece. It's okay - definitely Honda-quality, buy for like $50, you can't complain. What sounded like an exhaust leak was definitely the motor vibrating on the busted mount - theirs was busted just like in the OP's pictures - in two pieces.
 

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Hey, nice write up. I did this job myself in September. I bought the Rock Auto part, it was made by Anchor mounts part #9280(same as Autozone and other parts stores). It did have a manufacturing defect, the weld nuts were not aligned with the holes, but Rock Auto made it right.

It was difficult to wiggle the mounts around the brake lines and ABS, but with some trial and error and not rushing it they all came out just fine..
 
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