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I have an 08 with 60K on it and need to do this ASAP, I just can't decide whether to use Honda or other synthetic fluid, some say use Honda only and others say the other brands are OK. :facepalm:
 

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thank you for this post! i just did mine at 25k i did not jack up the car and the plug came out easy just pulled straight back on it and it broke loose !!! took all but 2oz short of 3 qts!
 

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I have an 08 with 60K on it and need to do this ASAP, I just can't decide whether to use Honda or other synthetic fluid, some say use Honda only and others say the other brands are OK. :facepalm:
Ask yourself one question...Does Honda or any other auto manufacturer brew their own oil products? Answer...No, they have an oil company make a house brand to their specification. Then brainwash their customers into thinking the World will come to an end if anything else is used.

I went through the same issue with mine. 1st ATF service was ~ 30K miles at the dealer at an insane cost while an unrelated warranty repair was being made. Next was a 1-shot drop & fill closer to 60K with a Valvoline product that mets Honda spec., which smelled horible but significantly improved shift smoothness. Then repeated the 1-drop method every-other engine OCI with whatever quality synthetic ATF I can find that meets Honda spec. The car still works fine using several non-Honda branded ATF's in the hootch and this did not tear a hole in the Universe.
 

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Guys about to replace the fluid, was just wondering would I get more (oil) fluid out if I jack the whole car up as opposed to just the 2 front wheels ?

Cheers :)


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Meaning all four wheels? If so then no, the car just needs to be elevated on the drivers side so the fluid flows out toward the passenger side. I would jack up both the front and rear drivers sides so you dont have some fluid stuck in the corners.
 

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Meaning all four wheels? If so then no, the car just needs to be elevated on the drivers side so the fluid flows out toward the passenger side. I would jack up both the front and rear drivers sides so you dont have some fluid stuck in the corners.
Thanks that make sense :)!
Anyway I be doing both cars ( manual & auto ).
Can I just re confirmed for auto I use AmSoil MFT Synchromesh & for manual I use AmSoil Universal AFT correct ?

Cheers :)


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Thanks that make sense :)!
Anyway I be doing both cars ( manual & auto ).
Can I just re confirmed for auto I use AmSoil MFT Synchromesh & for manual I use AmSoil Universal AFT correct ?

Cheers :)


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ATF stands for automatic transmission fluid. This if for automatic transmissions
MTF stands for Manual transmission fluid. This is for manual transmissions
 

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I just did a 3X3 ATF drain & refill with DW-1. The car is definitely smoother wile going through gears.

I also took this opportunity to change the AFT filter after I did the 3X3 AFT change. The air box had to come out and the filter is located towards back of the transmission.

I also noticed this transmission doesn't get cooled via the car's radiator. At least I didn't see any hoses going to the radiator from the transmission.
 

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that filter is right underneath the trans dipstick, seem likes the battary needs removal and maybe the tray to change it out as well.
2008 Honda Civic L4-1.8L
Vehicle » Transmission and Drivetrain » Automatic Transmission/Transaxle » Fluid Filter - A/T » Service and Repair
SERVICE AND REPAIR
ATF Filter Replacement

Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Disconnect the ATF warmer hose (A) from the ATF filter (B).

140765170.gif


Remove the ATF filter holder (C).
Remove the bolt (D) securing the ATF inlet line (E).
Remove the joint bolt (F) from the ATF inlet line.
Disconnect the ATF filter from the ATF warmer hose (G), and replace it with new one.
Slide the ATF warmer hose (A) on the new ATF filter until the hose end contacts the filter housing, and secure the hose with the clip (H) at 6 - 8 mm (0.24 - 0.31 in.) (I) from the filter housing.
Install the ATF filter and the ATF inlet line/hose with the joint bolt and new sealing washers (J).
Secure the ATF filter with the ATF filter holder and the bolt.
Slide the ATF warmer hose (G) on the ATF filter until the hose end contacts the filter housing, and secure the hose with the clip (K) at 6 - 8 mm (0.24 - 0.31 in.) (L) from the filter housing.
Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
 

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where is the fluid level suppose to be on the dipstick, between the lower and upper mark?

also when I check mine right after I drive its its at the lower mark, but if I wait a few minutes as stated its between the lower and upper mark, is this normal?
 
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