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Is that when the MM called for it ??
No. I never found anything specific in the manual about what "severe duty" meant so I asked my dealer.. he said change it every 30k regardless and they wanted like 130$ to do it.. They also said they never do more than 2.5 qts at time... it sounded like a waste of time and money to me so I called Honda corporate and talked to someone there about their use of the term "severe duty" They suggested I wait 50k to 70k miles with my driving habits being that mine is mostly all interstate and approx 30k miles per year. I waited a little bit longer than that for the first change due to life circumstances at the time but have since decided to do it closer to the 60k mark.

We shall see how it goes but so far I have had no problems.
 

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Is that when the MM called for it ??
No. I never found anything specific in the manual about what "severe duty" meant so I asked my dealer.. he said change it every 30k regardless and they wanted like 130$ to do it.. They also said they never do more than 2.5 qts at time... it sounded like a waste of time and money to me so I called Honda corporate and talked to someone there about their use of the term "severe duty" They suggested I wait 50k to 70k miles with my driving habits being that mine is mostly all interstate and approx 30k miles per year. I waited a little bit longer than that for the first change due to life circumstances at the time but have since decided to do it closer to the 60k mark. The original fluid that came out was dark red but it was still translucent.

We shall see how it goes but so far I have had no problems.

As for the maintenance minder I have never let the car go to that point where the wrench illuminated.. I change the engine oil when it gets to about 30% which is usally 6 to 7k miles.
 

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^^^ Thanks, I talked with a mechanic friend yesterday about the interval.

He was saying 60-75k is normal but there is no way i'm waiting that long.

Our dealer says 30k, I do 25k.
 

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^^^ Thanks, I talked with a mechanic friend yesterday about the interval.

He was saying 60-75k is normal but there is no way i'm waiting that long.

Our dealer says 30k, I do 25k.
25k is serious overkill IMO but certainly won't hurt anything.

good luck with yours. If you are letting the dealer do it each time, you can really save a lot of money doing it yourself.

I was out 45 bucks for fluid since I used the RP and 2.14 for a new crush washer for the drain plug..

While I was under neath the car I went over the sub-frame assembly and re-torqued everything there and on the suspension as well as the the steering rack. She rides great.
 

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Did the drain/fill this weekend and followed the DIY steps in this thread. I used Honda DW-1, I called several Honda dealers and the cheapest price in San Fernando Valley is $8.23/qt @ Miller Honda. So I drove there and I thought of buying a crush washer while I'm on it. They're selling it for $3.99! I still bought it, since I'm already there and wouldn't want to waste time/effort to drive somewhere else. Anyway, I decided to do drain/refill, instead of the 3x "flush" method. I'll just do another one maybe sooner.

The drain plug was a bit tough, but nothing that a breaker couldn't handle. I set the torque at 36 lb/ft, filled the tranny with 2.6 qts (I measured how much old fluid I drained). I drove around the block, and went back to check for leaks. After driving a few days, I felt a noticeable improvement on shifts, definitely smoother.

Overall, this was a great and easy DIY. It's helpful to have the proper tools (ramp, ratchet/torque wrench, breaker bar, funnel, oil pan) and safety measures (wheel chock, gloves, eyewear). I want to say thank you to OP, and everyone who chimed in.
 

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I called 3 Honda dealers within 6 mile radius and their prices vary from $8.23 - $12.05 (I think). I'm sure their prices on crush washers are different too, so the savings I got from buying the lowest price fluid were almost offset by the huge markup on the crush washer. That's were I got killed! But it's all good, the dealers need to make profit one way or the other.
 

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where is the fluid level suppose to be on the dipstick, between the lower and upper mark?

also when I check mine right after I drive its its at the lower mark, but if I wait a few minutes as stated its between the lower and upper mark, is this normal?
 

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where is the fluid level suppose to be on the dipstick, between the lower and upper mark?

also when I check mine right after I drive its its at the lower mark, but if I wait a few minutes as stated its between the lower and upper mark, is this normal?
 

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Just did my first transmission service on car. Fluid was very dark as compared to new fresh fluid. Don't notice any difference in shifting what so ever. It took 2.5 qts. I used the Honda fluid and crush washer from the dealer. Plan to do it 2 - 3 more times in the next few thousand miles. Job is very easy. It took 10 minutes.
 

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a few thoughts.............

Great write up! But I noticed a few things.

1) After you reinstall the drain bolt, please don't sweat about the torque specs on it. Tighten it until you believe it's tight (subjectively speaking of course). Don't forget, you'll be back doing this in 30,000 miles. I currently have about 130,000 on mine. Taking it off the first time is always the hardest. Anyway, I must've taken it out about 6-7 times now. I'm not a huge strong guy, but I put it on tight, but not tight enough that it would be tough as hell to take out. It's only a drain plug, not a bolt for the lifters/timing chain/etc......

2) when refilling and checking the ATF, no one mentioned putting the shifter in P, then R, then N, D, 3, 2, 1, then back to 2, 3, D, N, R, P......... Not too sure if taking it out for a quick drive is a good idea if you really don't know how much more ATF you are going to put in. Anyway, when refilling ATF, make sure engine/tranny are at operating temperature.

3) When the level on the dipstick is between the HI and LO, then it's fine. Don't fret if its on the low/high side. As long as the level is in between.

4) Guys, please use Honda ATF DW-1 (it's fully synthetic), you most likely are not smarter than the engineers who designed this transmission. (LMAO, having that said, this tranny isn't exactly the best, but whatever.....................)

Don't mean to sound condescending, just throwing out some information that seems to be missing from this great DIY. Good luck to those who embarks on doing this by themselves. :thumb:
 

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sub'd...

I'm at 102K and I'm probably going to be the first one to change the ATF in my 06 Civic. From the advice here I am just going to do the first 2.5 qts. and then do another 2.5 in 10K or so. Time for me to price out some Honda ATF. I have some extra Redline D4 from when I did my 3X3 on my TL... Can I use what I have left or do I need to stick 100% with the Honda fluid?
 

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Is the crush washer for the tranny drain plug the same size as the oil drain plug or is it different?

Thanks for a great DIY thread.
 
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