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Discussion Starter #1
I bought my Civic LX in March 2008. The driver's side power door lock has failed 3 times and the passenger side once. Since I drive a lot of miles, none of these repairs were under warranty, so I bought the parts and fixed it myself. I figured that I can't be the only person with this problem, so I'm going to try to write up a how to.

The power door lock actuator is part of the door latch, so the entire latch has to be replaced. Fortunately, this parts only costs ~$45.

Here's the door.

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Here's the latch to be replaced.

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There's a screw holding the door handle under a cover. Use a small screwdriver to release the catch, and it'll come right off.

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The door handle cover has to come off now. Stick a screwdriver in there and pry it off.

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Here it is flying off. For some odd reason, it's strapped to the door, so it won't fall off.

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Remove the screw for the door handle with a #2 Phillips bit.

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Remove the "strap-on" door pull cover with a #2 Phillips bit.

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There are two screws under here that come out with the same #2 Phillips bit.

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Use a screwdriver at the bottom of the door panel and pry it up so you can get your fingers under it, then pop it loose. Work your way around the perimeter of the panel popping the clips loose. Honda uses very resilient clips so there's scant chance of damage.

See next post.....
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Now, the door panel must be lifted straight up about 1/2" to come off the door. Start at the rear and just keep wiggling it and it'll come up. When it turns loose, don't pull it far from the door....there's wires and cables to deal with.

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Unplug the harness for the windows/locks. It comes apart easily once the release is pressed in.

Smack the interior door handle from the inside of the door panel and fish the whole thing back through the opening. The door panel is now free and can be set aside. This is what the door looks like now.

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The plastic vapor shield has to be pulled off the top rear of the door to reach the parts you're after. It's a good idea to cover the goopy adhesive remaining on the door and on the vapor barrier with some strips of wax paper. It'll keep you from getting covered with this messy crap.

This plug has got to go.

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Unplug the power lock mechanism.

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More on the next post....
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The exterior door handle uses a linkage rod to release the door latch. This is as good a picture as I could get looking back into the door...

View attachment 44861 DSC_0062a.jpg

See the white clip with the arrow pointing to it? Reach back there and grab it. Turn it 90 drgrees to release it from the linkage rod from the door handle. Grasp the linkage rod and using the strength of Hercules, pull it towards the front of the car. You'll have to pull it HARD. REALLY HARD. About the time you're ready to pass out from exertion, it'll pop loose.

Now, use a 10mm socket to remove the screw that holds the window track to the door frame. This will give you room to work inside the panel. (Not really as much as you'd like, but a LOT more than if you skip this step.)

View attachment 44864 DSC_0068.jpg

Put your key in the exterior door lock. Reach inside the door as you or a helper repeatedly lock and unlock the door. There's a cable leading down to the inside edge of the door latch that will twist back and forth. There's no way to get a pic of it, but there's a plastic part with two wings (like a wingnut). Wiggle, cuss, strain, and pray as you struggle with it. Eventually, it'll give up and turn loose.

The hard part is over. Take a break, wash up, and get something to drink.

The door latch is held in by 4 screws. These REQUIRE a #3 Philips bit to remove. That's a NUMBER THREE. If you don't have one, stop and go get one.

Here's the screw that might not be so obvious.

View attachment 44862 DSC_0066.jpg

Here's the other three that you were expecting.

View attachment 44863 DSC_0067.jpg

Once all four are out, just wiggle the latch mechanism out of the door and lay it on the floor next to the new part.

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Now, you gotta swap the interior door handle to the new latch.

Take this screw loose with a #2 Phillips bit.

View attachment 44866 DSC_0071.jpg

Lift up the little plastic cover and here's the sight you'll behold.

View attachment 44867 DSC_0073.jpg

The little blue parts lift straight up and then you can wiggle the cables loose. Use care and deliberate motions. No force is necessary. The short one locks the door and has a Z bend in it, the longer one opens the door. Pivot the cable 90 degrees to the little arm and it comes right out. Transfer everything to the new latch.

Wiggle the new latch mechanism back into the door and hold it as low as it'll go. Manipulate the door linkage so that it goes outboard of the window track you took loose earlier. Now, raise it up and start the screws. Start putting the door linkage. If that goes OK, then start the bolt with the 10mm head for the window track. If nothing interferes, you're ready to move on.

The next step is to reattach the cable for the exterior door key. It's tricky, but I hope you studied how it looked while it was outside the car. If not, take a short break and look closely at the latch you just removed. Once it's clicked into place, pull on it to make sure it's properly seated. It'll pop right loose if it's not properly seated. Make sure this is right. The door key absolutely HAS to work correctly. Tighten the screws, plug in the power lock harness, and put the plastic vapor barrier back in place.

:readtherules: Do NOT be tempted to get a door handle without a keyhole to improve "looks" or to "smooth out" the appearance. You'll be at the mercy of the failure prone power locks if you do. Remember, I've had my car for less than 4 years, and this is the 4th time I've played this game. Honda, in their infinite wisdom decided that a double click of the unlock button on the transmitter opens the passenger door(s), but ONLY if the driver's door actually unlocks. That's right boys & girls, when the driver's side lock dies, the transmitter's useless.

OK, now you're almost home. Get in the car gently close the door and test the transmitter. Make sure the door locks and unlocks with the power lock and the manual lock.

Here's what it'll look line now.

View attachment 44868

I really hate to use the cliche, but the door panel goes back on the opposite way it came off. It's pretty easy to install the door panel.

Just for the record (and to vent a little), here are a few observations and comments...

1. Honda has a lousy design for their power door locks. There's no way a 4 year old car should need this done 4 times by now
2. Miles shouldn't matter on warranty for this part.
3. Cable linkages feel spongy and cheap.
4. The passenger doors are easier because there's no key lock to deal with.
5. I deactivated the self locking doors on day ONE and I advise you do too. There's no telling how fast these things will die of you leave that option activated.
 

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A very good write-up. My wife's LX needs this done but I am taking it to my Honda mechanic to deal with it.
 

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Thanks for the great write up.
I just used your guide to change the rear drivers side lock actuator in my '07 Si. It was virtually identical to your front door guide only there was no window bracket to remove. The window bracket is stationary and the actuator easily slides out from underneath it on the rear door. You are not kidding about needing the strength of Hercules to get the door linkage free from that damn plastic clip. I just knew that I was about to break something. Things were popping, creaking and cracking when I was tugging on that linkage. Once it broke free the clip went flying, took me another 5 min to find that stupid thing. Took me a total of 1 hr 15 min from start to finish to change out the actuator with the assistance of your guide, fairly easy job.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the great write up.
I just used your guide to change the rear drivers side lock actuator in my '07 Si. It was virtually identical to your front door guide only there was no window bracket to remove. The window bracket is stationary and the actuator easily slides out from underneath it on the rear door. You are not kidding about needing the strength of Hercules to get the door linkage free from that damn plastic clip. I just knew that I was about to break something. Things were popping, creaking and cracking when I was tugging on that linkage. Once it broke free the clip went flying, took me another 5 min to find that stupid thing. Took me a total of 1 hr 15 min from start to finish to change out the actuator with the assistance of your guide, fairly easy job.
Thanks for the reply. I'm glad it was useful to you. The first time it happened to me, the dealer quoted me $450 to do the job. I thought that was a little steep, so I dived in. When it happened again and again, I thought I'd write it up. I can't be the only person with this problem.
 

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Thank god i found this. Been manually locking my driver door on my 06 ex coupe for like the past year, worked if i repeatedly locked it before. Looks like i have a project this weekend.
 

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Thanks for the write up..mine hasn't been working ever since I bought my car used a little while ago. I'm guessing this is the problem. Not a huge deal, but definitely an inconvenience. I may have to try this.
 

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Really sucks you can't edit your posts.

I meant to say that part number is for the FRONT LEFT (driver's door).
 

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105,000 miles on both my FG2 and FA3 and they are fine... Knock on wood.
 

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Just finished replacing mine. Very easy job.

Here's a picture of the "wingnut" piece the op is talking about that must be pulled out.



Just a tip.. When removing the metal latch from the outside door handle, it was SUPER easy to remove it by holding the handle in the open position with my left hand and tugging on the metal latch with my right. I found it harder without holding the handle and ended up bending something slightly.

Thanks for the guide op. It made the job pretty easy :dancingcoolsmiley:
 

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Just finished replacing mine. Very easy job.

Here's a picture of the "wingnut" piece the op is talking about that must be pulled out.



Just a tip.. When removing the metal latch from the outside door handle, it was SUPER easy to remove it by holding the handle in the open position with my left hand and tugging on the metal latch with my right. I found it harder without holding the handle and ended up bending something slightly.

Thanks for the guide op. It made the job pretty easy :dancingcoolsmiley:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the tip! My driver's door is just starting to act up again with the "straining to work sound". I'll try your method when it fails in another month or so.
 

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Thanks rawhide for the great write up and images. I just replaced mine in 75 minutes. And saved about $200 the shop charged. (I bought the latch assembly for $56) I couldn't get the linkage rod off the door handle because if I pulled harder something would have broken. So I just left it there and connected the new door latch assembly to it. The locks and door handle worked fine.
 
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