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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Finally got around to this throttle body (TB) spacer install. What you'll need:

A torque wrench for 16ft.-lbs. of torque
-12mm socket
-13mm socket
-Philips screwdriver
-flathead screwdriver. or a really long and tough thumbnail.
-needle nose pliers
-patience

I'll run through the steps while they're fresh in my mind. I marked the hose clamp screws to recall where they end up, but Honda factory already has some markers on the tubes that help you out. Plug the spacer with the brass plug before you install! Tighten as far as you can. :) I only hand-tightened, dammit I had to run out the next morning and tighten it!!


Take off the screws for the stock intake bend clamps. Take off the sensor on the manifold (easy push down near the connection and out), and undo the wiring on the intake elbow. You'll then need to unclamp the hose that goes in near the throttle body, on the intake elbow. That's a tough one; you can pretty much push the metal pipe toward the rear, and pull the entire elbow towards you. Wrangle aside the intake bend to access the throttle body bolts, two of which unbolt, two of which need to be "broken" (not literally, just loosened off) the manifold. I've only taken out and loosened what I felt was necessary to get the work done. You may take apart more at your discretion.

Unscrew the elbow. Both this one at the air filter, and the clamp down by the TB.


Remove the intake manifold sensor (dark blue item; no real force necessary).


Unclip this sensor clip near the bottom of the TB, using the pliers to squeeze the fasteners to push out.


Pull the throttle body out after manipulating the elbow out of the way. Peel off the stock gasket.


At some point pry out the coolant hose clip (I used a flathead screwdriver) on the elbow and turn it 180 degrees, replace.

The front-most bolt is the easiest. Seriously, run out to the nearest store to get some Vise-grips or some other knock off (if you already don't have one-- lost mine -- heheh -- around a 6" long or greater handle), and get that lower, far back, bolt broken off the manifold (not literally, just loosened). It does come off. The one diagonally is also on the manifold. All told, four bolts; the long ones P2R provides works fine to replace with the 13mm socket. Loosen it slowly a few turns at a time; you'll be able to use your fingers at some point.

Here's the generic vise on the first (easy) bolt:


Next steps are to throw on the gaskets, spacer, gasket, bolts (reorient them until the look right). Tighten down using a torque wrench til' it clicks...

Now, get your sensors back on. The first one on the manifold I feel you need to coax more wiring out so the bend isn't so tight. Don't forget the one that runs along the intake elbow (the first part that connects to the TB). Don't forget that last tube that you pried off the elbow earlier!

Tada!



Hope this helps; it's a lot more work than I expected. Enjoy.
:wavey:



*I am nor is 8th civic, partners, or sponsors NOT responsible for damage, or anything you do based on this walkthrough. I keep finding typos in this DIY... sorry!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
After the install? Pretty much the same, just farther right (driver's left). Hence the clip flip.

Also, I'm going to have to take it all apart again and re-tighten that damned brass bolt (it's so far out it's touching the TB) tomorrow morning. Argh. Ran fine though, around a couple blocks. Honestly feels much more responsive down there in the low revs. butt-dyno, take it fwiw (BS)... will get to a dyno next week... sorry for no immediate before/after dynos...
 

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A trick for taking the studs out.
Take 2 nuts and screw them ontothe threads
Turn the inside nut out till it makes contact with the outside nut
Tighten the 2 together
use wrench on inside nut to pull the stud out
By turning to the left, this will cause it to lock against the outside nut and allow you to twist the stud with the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
20strong said:
A trick for taking the studs out.
Take 2 nuts and screw them ontothe threads
Turn the inside nut out till it makes contact with the outside nut
Tighten the 2 together
use wrench on inside nut to pull the stud out
By turning to the left, this will cause it to lock against the outside nut and allow you to twist the stud with the nut.

That's awesome. Or, just do I like I did and suffer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Can't answer that since I'm going to avoid intakes for awhile.

Mods feel free to move this to DIY and retitle. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Other people on ... what board was it... k-series.com maybe... have some shots you can refer to as well. Seems most people went through the trouble of removing all the hoses, connectors and wiring to remove the entire TB. Entirely up to you, of course, when you get your parts.

Yes, I got two gaskets. One thing I should mention and edit, is that you should scrape whatever OEM gasket is left over on the TB with a window-paint-scraper razor.

Probably won't affect anything, but may as well do a clean job.
 

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20strong said:
A trick for taking the studs out.
Take 2 nuts and screw them ontothe threads
Turn the inside nut out till it makes contact with the outside nut
Tighten the 2 together
use wrench on inside nut to pull the stud out
By turning to the left, this will cause it to lock against the outside nut and allow you to twist the stud with the nut.
Word. I did that on my IM studs. Unfortunatley I didn't have any that fit the TB studs so I was tormented with the vise grip method:xyxnervou
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's not as bad as it sounds; clamp down the vise grip to pinch the bolt enough, and hand-untorque is plenty of force.
 

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can some one plese tell me what legnth and thread the extended bolts that come witht the P2R spacer are? i had a spacer custom made and want to install...but i need to know what bolts to use.

thanks!
 

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inyong1988 said:
is there any differences?
nothing major. i bought 1 gasket from corsport and had the machinist at my dads job make a second one and the 3/4" aluminum spacer...i dont know what the P2R one is..but i am sure any metal would have worked. the only major difference is it is not polished...but i dont really care about that.
 
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