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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys im getting some codes P2122. ,P2127 ,P0113, P0102 on a 2011 civic si coupe

P2122- THROTTLE/PEDAL POSITION SENSOR/SWITCH D CIRCUIT LOW

P2127- THROTTLE/PEDAL POSITION SENSOR/SWITCH E CIRCUIT LOW

P0113- INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT HIGH

P0102- MASS OR VOLUME AIR FLOW A CIRCUIT LOW

CAN ANYBODY LET ME KNOW WHAT CAN BE CAUSING THIS IM ASSUMING ITS ELECTRICAL BUT NOT 100%

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Have you done any repairs recently? If some electrical connectors were not hooked back up you might get those codes. Otherwise seems odd that the MAF/IMT sensor and the throttle position sensor would go out at the same time. So your electrical comment seems spot on.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
To back track a bit i was having problems with RPMs dropping and going up and lost of power but no check engine lights so i took it to a shop then they told me that the scanner said that i have to keep driving it cause computer said not ready ive been driving it for about a month now so i changed sparkplugs,some vaccum hoses, new air filter on intake,new mass airflow sensor,and a new CAT and when i got the CAT DONE at the muffler shop they also told me the same thing that it wasnt that the car needed to be droven more but they still changed the CAT. Yesterday coming from work it was really bad with hessitation surging so i just parked it when i got home
 

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So you do not have a CEL now? And are those codes active or inactive?

The first two are for the throttle pedal. There are two redundant circuits in the throttle pedal to sense the position. The other two are for the combined intake air temp/mass air flow sensor. That sensor gets disconnected when the air filter is serviced so that is why I thought you should check those connections.

Was the replacement MAF/IAT sensor new and are you sure it was good? (i.e. did the codes pop up immediately after replacing the sensor, or was it some time later?

As far as them saying you need to drive it more, there are checks that require a few engine warmup/cool down cycles to verify that particular system is working. They are called readiness codes, and when someone clears the codes, these systems have to re-check whether something is wrong and that takes some drive cycles...like a few days, not a few months.

I'd re-check the codes and verify what is active and what isn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will check again wich ones are active but i disconnected 3 ground connections on chassis and reconnected them codes went away kinda weird but i did notice white residue under battery dont know and top of battety had moisture dont know if that's something that can help
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So an update i still had my old Maf sensor that i pulled out about 1 month ago so i went ahead and removed new one and put the old one in and the car idles perfect no check engine light maybe new maf sensor is bad but then again rpms were doing this before a new maf and now with old one back in its fine ??
 

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Not sure, but it would seem to mean that the new sensor is not functioning correctly. Was it OEM?

It is odd that both the MAF and IAT sensors are bad at the same time, so maybe there could be an intermittent connection in the wires leading up to the sensor? Does anything look loose or frayed?

Maybe while the engine is idling, you could flex the wiring harness and see if the check engine light comes on. That might reveal if there is a wire problem.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
  1. Nothing is loose or fryed from what i can see . Also just got new tires also and my TPMs light comes on every other day stays on sometimes for 2 days then couple of days off weird the car drives ok still hearing a little sputter but Rpms are steady but still gettin a small sudden climb to 1000 Rpms then back to its normal idle at 800 after letting foot off the brake pedal and if i pump it rpms will keep climbing and i dont feel like vtech kicks in when i wanna give it a good ?
 
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