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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I been hearing a lot about this product, anyone here got a D.I.Y. ? I just wanna know how hard to install this 1-5. thanks.
 

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No pictures, but install instructions are on their website:

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR OMNI-POWER QUICKLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER

The Omni-Power Quicklutch master cylinder reduces the stock clutch pedal travel of approximately 5.5 inches to a mere 3 inches. Its function is to reduce shifting time by reducing the distance the clutch pedal has to travel. The stock master cylinder incorporates a 15.8mm diameter piston moving 3.3 cc's of fluid in approximately 17mm of travel (the amount needed to fully disengage the clutch). Where as the omnipower quicklutch master cylinder uses a 21mm diameter piston and only needs 9.6mm of piston travel to move the same 3.3 cc's of fluid. Numerous independent tests have been conducted that revealed .1-.4+ second reductions in both 1/4 mile and road race lap times. "Nothing shifts like a quicklutch".

The location of the CMC is between the firewall and drivers shock tower.

Tools needed:
A: Deep 10mm, 12mm 1/4 drive socket and socket wrench.
B: 10mm line wrench.
C: Small pair of dikes or a 90 degree pick.
D: 12mm, 8mm combination wrenches.
E: Brake bleeder tube/vacuum line and bottle.
F: A friend to help you bleed the CMC.

1. Start by disconnecting the negative battery cable.
2. Use a 10mm socket and remove the 2 bolts securing the clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir to driver’s side shock tower.
3. Remove the stock steel hard line with a 10mm line wrench. (be sure to put a rag or garage towels under the CMC to prevent damage to the paint).
4. Working under the dash inside the car, remove the pin that attaches the CMC rod the pedal assembly. There is a cotter pin that will need to be removed and reinstalled.
5. Remove the 2 12mm nuts securing the CMC to the firewall
6. Remove the stock CMC from the vehicle from inside the engine bay. and remove the reservoir hose from the stock CMC.
7. Thoroughly clean the CMC fluid reservoir with brake cleaner or warm water, making sure to completely dry it and the rubber line before reinstalling it.
8. Install the Omni-Power QCMC through the firewall and hand start the steel hard line.
9. After hard line is hand tight, install the 2 12mm nuts that secure the Omni-Power QCMC to the firewall, under the dash.
10. Install the lock pin and cotter pin securing the QCMC rod to the clutch pedal and reinstall the cotter pin.
11. Use the 10mm line wrench to tighten the steel hard line. take care not to over tighten. When the fitting bottoms out only about 1/8th turn or less is needed.
12. Install the clean and dry CMC fluid reservoir on the new Omni-Power QCMC.
13. Fill the fluid reservoir with premium dot-3 or dot-4 brake fluid.
14. Using an 8mm wrench open the clutch slave cylinder bleeder on the front of the transmission. Attach a rubber vacuum line to the bleeder orifice.
15. 2 people will be needed during the bleeding process. One to keep the reservoir full the other to pump the clutch pedal.
16. With the slave cylinder bleeder open pump the clutch pedal by hand while another person makes sure the reservoir stays full. When clean fluid is coming out of the slave cylinder bleeder close the bleeder and top off the reservoir. Make sure the pump the clutch pedal all the way up and all the way down, this will ensure all the air is pumped out of the system.
17. Now bleed the clutch pedal in the traditional up down manner and open and close the bleeder on each stroke until no more air comes out. You will need to manually pull the pedal up after each down cycle.
18. The pedal rod adjustment is preset but may need to be adjusted to certain clutches. You can adjust the pedal rod by loosening the lock nut and either shortening it or lengthening it. A quick test drive or clutch release will determine whether it needs to be released.
19. The normal position of the clutch pedal will be about 2 inches lower than the brake pedal.

Tips:
A: Don't use an air bleeder, as they will not properly prime the QCMC
B: Don't try to make the clutch pedal rod too long or you will over engage your clutch making it hard to get into gear.
Omni Power USA, Inc - Still Going
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No pictures, but install instructions are on their website:

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR OMNI-POWER QUICKLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER

The Omni-Power Quicklutch master cylinder reduces the stock clutch pedal travel of approximately 5.5 inches to a mere 3 inches. Its function is to reduce shifting time by reducing the distance the clutch pedal has to travel. The stock master cylinder incorporates a 15.8mm diameter piston moving 3.3 cc's of fluid in approximately 17mm of travel (the amount needed to fully disengage the clutch). Where as the omnipower quicklutch master cylinder uses a 21mm diameter piston and only needs 9.6mm of piston travel to move the same 3.3 cc's of fluid. Numerous independent tests have been conducted that revealed .1-.4+ second reductions in both 1/4 mile and road race lap times. "Nothing shifts like a quicklutch".

The location of the CMC is between the firewall and drivers shock tower.

Tools needed:
A: Deep 10mm, 12mm 1/4 drive socket and socket wrench.
B: 10mm line wrench.
C: Small pair of dikes or a 90 degree pick.
D: 12mm, 8mm combination wrenches.
E: Brake bleeder tube/vacuum line and bottle.
F: A friend to help you bleed the CMC.

1. Start by disconnecting the negative battery cable.
2. Use a 10mm socket and remove the 2 bolts securing the clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir to driver’s side shock tower.
3. Remove the stock steel hard line with a 10mm line wrench. (be sure to put a rag or garage towels under the CMC to prevent damage to the paint).
4. Working under the dash inside the car, remove the pin that attaches the CMC rod the pedal assembly. There is a cotter pin that will need to be removed and reinstalled.
5. Remove the 2 12mm nuts securing the CMC to the firewall
6. Remove the stock CMC from the vehicle from inside the engine bay. and remove the reservoir hose from the stock CMC.
7. Thoroughly clean the CMC fluid reservoir with brake cleaner or warm water, making sure to completely dry it and the rubber line before reinstalling it.
8. Install the Omni-Power QCMC through the firewall and hand start the steel hard line.
9. After hard line is hand tight, install the 2 12mm nuts that secure the Omni-Power QCMC to the firewall, under the dash.
10. Install the lock pin and cotter pin securing the QCMC rod to the clutch pedal and reinstall the cotter pin.
11. Use the 10mm line wrench to tighten the steel hard line. take care not to over tighten. When the fitting bottoms out only about 1/8th turn or less is needed.
12. Install the clean and dry CMC fluid reservoir on the new Omni-Power QCMC.
13. Fill the fluid reservoir with premium dot-3 or dot-4 brake fluid.
14. Using an 8mm wrench open the clutch slave cylinder bleeder on the front of the transmission. Attach a rubber vacuum line to the bleeder orifice.
15. 2 people will be needed during the bleeding process. One to keep the reservoir full the other to pump the clutch pedal.
16. With the slave cylinder bleeder open pump the clutch pedal by hand while another person makes sure the reservoir stays full. When clean fluid is coming out of the slave cylinder bleeder close the bleeder and top off the reservoir. Make sure the pump the clutch pedal all the way up and all the way down, this will ensure all the air is pumped out of the system.
17. Now bleed the clutch pedal in the traditional up down manner and open and close the bleeder on each stroke until no more air comes out. You will need to manually pull the pedal up after each down cycle.
18. The pedal rod adjustment is preset but may need to be adjusted to certain clutches. You can adjust the pedal rod by loosening the lock nut and either shortening it or lengthening it. A quick test drive or clutch release will determine whether it needs to be released.
19. The normal position of the clutch pedal will be about 2 inches lower than the brake pedal.

Tips:
A: Don't use an air bleeder, as they will not properly prime the QCMC
B: Don't try to make the clutch pedal rod too long or you will over engage your clutch making it hard to get into gear.
Omni Power USA, Inc - Still Going

thank you, it gives me an idea. doesn't look that hard.
 

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Don't be deceived! This is a huge PITA! Those instructions do NOT tell the whole story. I just installed this yesterday; took about 5-6 hrs. I'm glad I did it for the $$ I saved by not having someone else do it, but there are steps that are missing, and key helps that would've been very nice to know. I will post some pics and extra help soon...

BTW, the Omni feels pretty good so far, and I knew I definitely needed one because the OEM CMC is not good to our transmissions, and mine was on its way out. BUT, it would've been good to know everything about the install...
 

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I am gonna help put a DIY up but b4 that, can someone tell me where the slave cylinder bleeder valve is? A pic would be awesome.
 

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http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/clut...h-master-cylinder-review-long-read-sorry.html

If you have any questions let me know. I still have the notchiness going into 2nd and 3rd gear during normal driving (shifting below 4k) but it's better than before with the oem cmc. It was amazing when I first installed it but then the notchiness returned slightly. I'm not sure if it has something to do with our self adjusting clutches. But I can def say that i can shift at redline from 1st into 2nd without any grinding. (Note: I never really had a grinding issue to begin with. I just had notchiness, and what felt like a slight grind going into 2nd and 3rd during normal driving.)
 

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I just bought mine and plan on doing a DIy since this is definitly a big job to do. I should be doing it this weekend and ill try to have a DIY written up by tuesday.
 

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ok for those of you that are thinking about installing the Omni CMC i figured out what you need to make the CMC truly "bolt on" with far less issues than i had for less than 30 bucks. Most of the parts can be picked up here in town but one adapter has to be ordered since it is evidently forbidden for anyone to stock them.

Parts are as follows"
1 male M10x1.0 inverted flare to -3AN male fitting
1 9 inch steel braided -3AN pre crimped brake line
1 Male -3 AN to Female 10mm x 1.0 Bubble Flare (summit racing part# FRA-650205)

All in all i paid about $29 and everything will bolt in with out have to risk kinking the stock line.
 

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That's cool. Hybrid racing also sells a clutch line that works and is extremely high quality stainless steel plastic coated hydraulic line.
 

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the install is very easy, I installed a new cmc with slave and it took about 2 hours, the hardest part was bleeding the system since I did it my self with the help of a 2x4..
 

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anyone who buys this, let me tell you now, this thing was a PAIN IN THE ASS to install..lol if you have huge hands forget it, if anyone knows an easier way of taking it out, power to them. THis thing is like basically tucked away in a corner thats unseen and hard to get to..
 

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I think I need to get this part replaced. According to what I've been reading so far. Everytime I press the clutch, there is this little popping noise when it gets near the floor/back wall. It's not too loud but annoying after applying clutch a couple of times. I've read some forums and the "symptoms" of it appear to be the need to replace this part. I'm supposed to take it to the dealer tomorrow and have them check it out. The car is still under warranty so it should be covered.
 

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I think I need to get this part replaced. According to what I've been reading so far. Everytime I press the clutch, there is this little popping noise when it gets near the floor/back wall. It's not too loud but annoying after applying clutch a couple of times. I've read some forums and the "symptoms" of it appear to be the need to replace this part. I'm supposed to take it to the dealer tomorrow and have them check it out. The car is still under warranty so it should be covered.

thats not the cmc, thats a bad design of the little spring, I dont know if honda has replaced the part but for almost everybody white lithium grease did the job
 
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