FG2 06
I have changed the oil on my coupe the better part of 20 times with no incident or issue.
I always use a crush washer, I torque to spec (31 ft lbs) and in consideration of my obnoxious neighbors I even stopped pouring my spent motor oil in their jacuzzi filter.
Today after finger tightening the drain bolt with crush washer, I put my torque on to finish...and it kept spinning (with only light resistance). I freaked for a minute....looking for any signs of cracks in the pan, then backed the drain bolt out.
Looking at the bolt...I could visibly see the threads of the pain clinging lightly to the bolt. Soft aluminum filings, that I would say accounted for about %50 of the pan threads. Now I was torqued.
I tried to clean and remove any remaining loose filings...and went out and grabbed a 14-1.5 single oversized drain bolt. I finger tightened, and then gave about a 90° turn and felt moderate resistance. I did not want try and torque to spec....fearing further damage.
My Questions:
1. Is this a viable temporary solution... avoiding my k20 seizing would be super
2. Is tapping a slightly large hole a viable permanent solution?
3. Dropping the sub frame (with only jack stands) to swap out the pan is not the most attractive alternative, but is this my best bet?
I have not had to pay the stealership a single dime in my 6 years of ownership and have done all service, mods and maintenance myself. I just don't know if I have the time right now to actually put in a new pan...and if its not necessary, would ideally like to avoid it.
Thanks. Yes, I know...I suck.
I have changed the oil on my coupe the better part of 20 times with no incident or issue.
I always use a crush washer, I torque to spec (31 ft lbs) and in consideration of my obnoxious neighbors I even stopped pouring my spent motor oil in their jacuzzi filter.
Today after finger tightening the drain bolt with crush washer, I put my torque on to finish...and it kept spinning (with only light resistance). I freaked for a minute....looking for any signs of cracks in the pan, then backed the drain bolt out.
Looking at the bolt...I could visibly see the threads of the pain clinging lightly to the bolt. Soft aluminum filings, that I would say accounted for about %50 of the pan threads. Now I was torqued.
I tried to clean and remove any remaining loose filings...and went out and grabbed a 14-1.5 single oversized drain bolt. I finger tightened, and then gave about a 90° turn and felt moderate resistance. I did not want try and torque to spec....fearing further damage.
My Questions:
1. Is this a viable temporary solution... avoiding my k20 seizing would be super
2. Is tapping a slightly large hole a viable permanent solution?
3. Dropping the sub frame (with only jack stands) to swap out the pan is not the most attractive alternative, but is this my best bet?
I have not had to pay the stealership a single dime in my 6 years of ownership and have done all service, mods and maintenance myself. I just don't know if I have the time right now to actually put in a new pan...and if its not necessary, would ideally like to avoid it.
Thanks. Yes, I know...I suck.
