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Anyone try changing the oil through the dipstick? My plug got stripped but is not leaking and I don't want to risk having it stripped again by undoing the drain plug.
 

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Had to stick a screwdriver through the filter the first time to get it off. Would not budge using some good, sticky work gloves. Next oil change, I will either get a good filter wrench or a filter with a nut on the end of it. Props though for making any spill of the filter easy to clean.
 

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Loosened the wrong plug.

Does anyone know what the bolt immediately next to the oil drain plug drains? I was working by feel and I loosened it, but then realized that it was the wrong one. Tightened it back up but didn't torque it enough since it leaked some type of oil.



The left most one is the oil drain. The one to the right is the one I messed up and loosened.

Otherwise, everything went well.
 

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i'll say this: get yourself a Form-A-Funnel. helps so much to reduce mess by letting you direct the dirty oil coming out of the filter out over the control arm.



red circle is the filter mount for reference
 

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i'll say this: get yourself a Form-A-Funnel. helps so much to reduce mess by letting you direct the dirty oil coming out of the filter out over the control arm.



red circle is the filter mount for reference
 

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so what should I do? the thing just don't want to come out :(
I bought everything to get my oil changed
I have the same problem - tried all kinds of wrenches. Took it to a local gas station mechanic, he got it up on the lift but had no luck either with the wrenches (even tried a pipe wrench!)
Someone suggested welding a nut to the bolt head and trying again (bolt head has been worked over pretty bad now!!)
How did you finally get it out of there!! (Assuming that you did - yes I realize that's 13 years ago now, but I really need to know!)
 

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ok here you go, i did an oil change over the weekend with a friend, didnt take many pictures but its actually a lot easier to do than the dealers and jiffy lube would like you to think.

What you will need:
4 quarts of 5W20 oil
Honda oil filter or equivalent from local parts store
Drain plug crush ring from dealer or parts store
17mm wrench to remove oil pan drain plug
oil catch pan
oil filter wrench
Papertowels
Rubber gloves (optional)

This is best done when the car is somewhat warm

1. Get your car up in the air (use your method of choice here, car lift, ramps, or jack and jack stands (DO NOT GET UNDER THE CAR WITHOUT PUTTING ON THE PARKING BRAKE AND USING JACK STANDS!) my friends dad has a shop so we used a lift, normally i would use ramps in my driveway.

2. Pop your hood and open the oil cap on the top of the engine, this allows the oil to drain more easily.

3.

The blue thing is your filter, honda actualy molded Engine Oil into the bottom of the pan and ive circled the drain plug bolt

from the back
Under the car, position the catch pan under the drain plug, the oil will shoot out a bit so make sure theres plenty of room. At this point i like to make sure the paper towels are handy and i have a rubber glove on. use the wrench to loosen the drain plug so you can remove it by hand. the oil will start to drip as you remove it. Since the oil temp can be hot i like to have the glove on so i can quickly get the hot oil off my hand.

4. use the oil filter wrench to loosen the oil filter and then remove it by hand. it will drip on you as you remove it so be ready for that.

5. dip a finger in the old oil in the catch pan and run it around the rubber gasket to moisten it and make a better seal, put on the new filter by hand and then give it about a 1/4 turn with the wrench, do not over tighten the filter, the threads could strip.

6. Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and put the new one on, re-install the plug with the 17mm wrench, this one you can tighten up because you are crushing the aluminum ring slightly to create a seal.

7. Pour the new oil into the top, i suggest using a funnel to make it easier. The car states that it takes 3.9 quarts of oil, so you can safely put all 4 quarts into the engine.

8. Run the engine and make sure that the oil light goes out, check the dipstick to make sure the oil is at the appropriate level. check for leaks under the car.

Resetting the Oil Life Meter:
9. Press the sel/reset button untill the oil life monitor comes up, hold the sel/reset button for 10 seconds, the oil life will start to blink, press and hold the sel/reset button for 5 seconds to reset the monitor.

You're done, hope that helps

A Si Supplement:
DIY SUPPLEMENT: Si Oil Change (noob style).
Have been doing this more than 40 times changing oil + filter, 5 times transmission oil. Don't need to jack car up. Just lying down on a carton sheet and I just extend my arm with the ratchet and unscrew whatever bolts I need and put them back after filling the fluids. It has 400K+ kms on it, mostly highways. Car still running great. Engine still origin. It's a 2006 and 14 years old now. Only time needed to jack up, when I had to replace the starter twice. So far changed front brake pads 6 times, rear brakes twice, battery, serpentine belt, coolant pump, alternator, wheel bearings, some fuse and bulbs and fuel filter and a few other parts. Must admit the original paint was very bad. Had to repaint it DIY. This is actually the perfect car because I don't like to crawl under the car when doing the maintenance. Hope this helps.
 

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Have been doing this more than 40 times changing oil + filter, 5 times transmission oil. Don't need to jack car up. Just lying down on a carton sheet and I just extend my arm with the ratchet and unscrew whatever bolts I need and put them back before filling the fluids. It has 400K+ kms on it, mostly highways. Car still running great. Engine still origin. It's a 2006 and 14 years old now. Only time needed to jack up, when I had to replace the starter twice. So far changed front brake pads 6 times, rear brakes twice, battery, serpentine belt, coolant pump, alternator, wheel bearings, some fuse and bulbs and fuel filter and a few other parts. Must admit the original paint was very bad. Had to repaint it DIY. This is actually the perfect car because I don't like to crawl under the car when doing the maintenance. Hope this helps.
 

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Have been doing this more than 40 times changing oil + filter, 5 times transmission oil. Don't need to jack car up. Just lying down on a carton sheet and I just extend my arm with the ratchet and unscrew whatever bolts I need and put them back after filling the fluids. It has 400K+ kms on it, mostly highways. Car still running great. Engine still origin. It's a 2006 and 14 years old now. Only time needed to jack up, when I had to replace the starter twice. So far changed front brake pads 6 times, rear brakes twice, battery, serpentine belt, coolant pump, alternator, wheel bearings, some fuse and bulbs and fuel filter and a few other parts. Must admit the original paint was very bad. Had to repaint it DIY. This is actually the perfect car because I don't like to crawl under the car when doing the maintenance. Hope this helps.
I use ramps to do my oil/ATF changes. Maybe your arms are long enough to reach, mine aren't. Anyway, I installed a fumoto valve years ago and changing the oil is crazy easy. I recommend it to anyone. I'm at 471K km and only have had to change the starter once. Mine continues to run just fine as well, but I do think my valves could use some adjusting.......
 
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