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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
UPDATE: Post #18



So I have approx 2860 miles and am currently at 40% oil life (real 30-40% oil life according to the manual). 95% city driving. 5% highway driving (2 trips)

Went to the dealer to get my oil changed yesterday(friday) and they said they dont need to change it till after 4000 miles because of a "break in additive in the oil".
I was fine with this as long as I still get my free oil change at 4000 miles.

They were also looking at my driverside door. My window and the plastic panel immediately below it rattle at above 70mph, really annoying. Also when It is below 55 degrees Fahrenheit my auto up/down doesnt work. The window goes to the top and comes back down to halfway.

They said the factory didnt add enough foam padding in the panel so they added some more, good. And they sprayed some silicone on the rubber of the weather seal in hopes of alleviating the window going up then back down, good.


Everything was fine till I left the dealer: Had to return b/c my auto up down wasnt working at all, they messed with it for about 5 minutes and got it working again.(Note I didnt even leave the parking lot, so no 2nd gear).

Then after pulling out of the dealer and going to a stop light I got locked out of 2nd gear. I coasted up to the light and tried to get it in 2nd, wasnt happening. Could get it into every gear but 2nd. Eventually got it in 2nd right before the light changed and was able to drive normally home. (drove this morning and it wasnt a problem).

Then this morning at 5:15 my car alarm goes off.:chill: Dont know how it got set off, didnt see anybody running, couldnt find any signs of attempted forced entry. Attempted to set the alarm off this morning and couldnt do it.
Only other time the alarm has gone off is when I opened my trunk by putting my key in the trunk key hole and opening the trunk without unlocking the car.

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I just cant help but associate the 2nd gear lockout, and alarm to something the dealer did, seeing as they had trouble turning my auto up/down switch back on.

Also are you really supposed to wait 4000 miles b/c of a "break in additive"?


Just realized I wrote a lot, thanks if you actually read it.
 

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Yes. Leave the oil alone. Search for this with my user name - I've posted this at least 20 times. Or log into honda.com ownerlink and read the FAQ's.
 

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i got my oil changed at 6,800 miles thats when it finally hit 15%. They did still change the oil for free when I presented them with the coupon when I first got the car.

they should do the same for u
 

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I know that whenever a problem show up right after a visit to the dealer it is impossible not to equate the two.

However, it is very unlikely that the second gear lockout is from something the dealer did. That sounds more like a mechanical issue with the transmission, shifter, etc. Not something they likely messed with.

As far as the alarm. There is a little bit better possibility that this is related to the dealer visit. If they were working in your door for your window problem it is possible they pinched a wire or something for the door switch which tells the car if the door is open. Or it could simply be a fluke and not related at all. I would bring it to their attention if it happens again. But I wouldn't go in accusing them of messing something up if it only happens once.

As ryker said, you will be fine waiting for the oil change. There are many people who prefer not to follow the oil life monitor. But there is no evidence that shows that you will hurt anything if you follow it. Indeed, it is the manufacurers recommendation to do so. It says so right in the manual.
 

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leave it to when it gets to 15% the dealer told me this too when I went in to change it at 3k miles on the dot, they said the car is more or less pre programmed to how u drive, so the way u drive your car how hard or how soft depends on how quick the oil burns up making your oil change come up that much quicker other than thast the dealer did prolly **** up the alarm thing seeing as how u were only in there for 5 minutes but regardless good luck with everything
 

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I am going to break ranks with a few who have replied to your post. I drained my factory oil fill at 1,504 miles and converted to a top quality synthetic. Was this absolutely necessary, not at all, but I do feel that it was the right thing to do.

The "special" additive that folks are talking about is merely the Moly assembly lube that was used at the time your engine was put together. Moly helps to establish wear patterns, but after 1,500 miles this should be not be an issue.

A new engine generates a lot of wear particles, which end up in the oil and can cause bearing damage. Yes, the oil filter will remove most of these particles. Small (1-10 micron) and sub-micron size particles, however, are the ones that oil filters cannot remove very well. These small particles, which are usually iron, copper, lead, silicon and aluminum do cause bearing damage. Most oil filters are only capable of removing 90% of 10-15 micron particles as per established standards.

Honda obviously wants their engines to last a long time. For that reason, I feel that there is nothing wrong with waiting until the maintenance minder indicates that oil life is at 15% or less before draining the factory fill. I also feel, however, that there is nothing wrong with draining the factory fill at 1,500 miles either.

Several oils contain Moly for those who want the best of both worlds. You can drain the factory fill and use Mobil One or Pennzoil Platinum. Both of these oils have higher than normal Moly content.
 

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Virgin Oil Analysis Moly content (PPM):
Honda Factory Fill: 650
Mobil One: 93
Pennzoil Platinum: 65
Royal Purple: 99
Redline: 1400
 

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I changed mine at 2300 miles @ 50 percent. It;s not goin gto hurt to change it if you wished.
 

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Virgin Oil Analysis Moly content (PPM):
Honda Factory Fill: 650
Mobil One: 93
Pennzoil Platinum: 65
Royal Purple: 99
Redline: 1400
Torco srs oils also have alot of Moly. I believe in the 20w oil they are even higher than redline.
 

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More than Redline? Holy Moly.
When I read the oil analysis for virgin oils and used oils, the used oils seem to have less moly than the virgin oils. Does the engine consume the moly?
 

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Though technology has improved, some Moly will be trapped in the oil filter. Moly is a suspended solid, so it can also settle out. Too much Moly is not a good thing accordingly. Most will tell you that Moly has a plating effect on wear surfaces. It also helps to establish wear patterns in new engines, but I am not sure how necessary this is in today's engines. Some oils use little to no Moly at all and work just fine. I would stay away from an oil that contains an extremely high Moly level.

Keep in mind that oil formulations change all the time. A virgin oil analysis from a year ago may not reflect what is being sold today. Mobil One and Pennzoil Platinum seem to maintain somewhere between the 50-100 range, which seems reasonable.
 

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Engine wear?

I've asked the dealership to change my oil with synthetic about every 3000 miles since new, but the engine seems less "tight" than when new (10k miles now). I know there is wear during break-in, but the car used to be silent while running and now when I start it in the morning it sounds like your typical couple-years-old car.

What do your cars sound/feel like, how many miles, and how did you change your oil?

PS- 07 civic si coupe.
 

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Have you changed your air filter lately? A fouled air filter can be the cause of the problem you describe. Also, try adding one bottle of Red Line fuel treatment to a tank of gas about two weeks prior to changing your oil. You want to change the oil soon after using the Red Line fuel treatment to make sure that it does not break down your oil and cause wear. Red Line fuel treatment is available at Pep Boys. Then add 3-4 ounces of Lucas UCL to each tank of gas. You should see a difference.
 

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I know there is wear during break-in, but the car used to be silent while running and now when I start it in the morning it sounds like your typical couple-years-old car.
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Cold weather. ??

and leave the oil in longer. Your just pissing away money with 3k intervals on synthetic oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well the dealer called me Monday, asked if anything happened to the car, service quality, etc.

I told them about the alarm at 5:15am saturday, getting locked out of 2nd leaving the dealer, and getting locked out of 2nd again on monday. Told them it is possibly a coincidence but is just natural for me to associate the alarm and my first 2nd gear lockout with them.

They said the lockout isnt normal and to bring it in so they can look at the transmission, gonna drop it off thursday. I will update on what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Update

Heres an update.

Dealer said being locked out of 2nd isnt normal, so they said they were gonna replace some parts. Transmission fork, 1st and 2nd gear sleeve; I dont really remember because they called me while I was on vacation.
Dropped the car off today, supposed to be a 2 day job, and was able to pick it up tonight! That was quick!

This is what they did:

2131C9 Synchronizer, MT, First and Second-
Replace
940 W2 6.70
1 90011-RPF-000 Bolt (16X25)
1 23432-RPF-305 Gear Set, Second
1 24330-RPF-000 Fork

All under warranty:biggrin:.

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On a different note, got the Skunk2 5spd knob. Very cool! Pretty heavy for its size.

Found I have to screw it a lot to get it to not move, looked in the knob and saw that the thread goes all the way to right near the top of the knob.

Whats this about BB's or something in the knob I remember reading a while ago? I remember people had problems with it screwing on so that the numbers lined up in the right direction.
 
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