[EdNaviEx]

Finally got the time to install the sucker.

Not sure what I'm going to do with the old one being that the seller doesn't have a core exchange option. I'll offer it to my Honda parts guy.

Running out of light, it installed very easy but the serpentine belt was a b***h .

the next day (yesterday), I installed the battery (note: new battery hold down, battery all cleaned up and recharged)

Tell all multimeter, LOL. 14.3 v at idle. I can live with that.

Now to the other problem. When I picked up my car after getting a new windshield, the driver's door wouldn't open. It would from the inside but not outside. I thought it was a fluke (I didn't blame the technician who installed it) and went on my way. So I took off the door panel and saw the culprit. Not sure what to call it, but the door cable (not really a cable, but a rigid bar) fastener, or latch that attaches it to the inside door handle assembly is broken. Pretty sure it's part number: 90691-SJD-003 ($6.74 at Conicelli Honda parts). I have to head to them to get a replicate inspection stickers, I'll ask parts if that is the one I need to get.

Here it is, it's the black plastic on the tip of the "cable".

Here it is (presently), it's on where it should be, but not secure. If I slam the door, it will come off.

Here is another view through the door grommet close to it when removed.

The journey continues..............................

 

[EdNaviEx]

Got the driver's door fixed. Turns out the part I needed was: 72181-SNE-A00. As you can see, Honda changed it, hopefully it is most robust than the previous one. Having that said, the original has endured 13 years, so...........

Took the black piece off.

Note the difference:

Bam!

Back to motoring! Next: I want to install my Tritons V6 LEDs (front turn signals/marker), but I might wait as I wanted to get new HID bulbs (Been going between Osram's CBB and CBIs, I'm currently using Morimoto 3Fives, I feel they are dim). Don't feel like taking the bumper off twice.

Next: Supposed to be somewhat nice, I might detail her this weekend. I got Meguiars 3in1 wax, the reviews are pretty good, plus I haven't hand waxed her in since last year. For as many issues I've had with my R18, she still deserves it!

 

[EdNaviEx]

Noticed the driver's side door lock switch doesn't work. The passenger side works just fine. When locking and unlocking, the driver door does lock and unlock, it's just the switch that isn't working. MAYBE it's a loose connection, we'll see when I take the panel off (again). Car is breaking my b*&^s lately.....................

Oh, and the front brakes are starting to squeak............................

 

[Megaman X]

Lots done since last I post. I redid the doors and arm rest in real alcantara fabric and carbon fiber. Also here are the big mods car is currently in the Wrap shop. HUGE color change and new Cosmis Racing rims. All paid for purchased rims and tires waiting on the wrap to get done. Hopefully by Wednesday or Thursday. Its looking badass man cant wait for finished product

 

[EdNaviEx]

Ordered from TRS (theRetroFitSource) a set of CBIs HID bulbs for my set up. Never had them on my Civic. I have them on my 4Runner and the light is EPIC. Anyway, when they come in, I'll install the vLed LEDs turn/market lights while I have the bumper off.

 

[EdNaviEx]

...................... and just like that (unknown), my driver's door lock switch is working again. 99% sure it was a loose connection

 

[Megaman X]

WELL NEW NEW just got my car back finally its now Gloss Bright Orange. Time to update my profile pic once i get these new rims on end of this week.

 

[EdNaviEx]

Having NO FREE time, I decided to take my rig to the dealer to get my brakes done. Turns out, my fronts are fine on wear (pads), but were serviced (shims and pins lubed) and rear pads replaced and rotor resurfaced. I asked about the moody door lock switch and turns out I was right, it was loose. I also asked about getting the valves adjusted. They suggested that they be left alone since I'm at (close) to 300K. They claim the computer compensates for wear and mileage of engine components (makes sense), also since the engine isn't making a lot of noise, to leave it alone. I dunno. Then why does Honda suggest they be adjusted every 100K???? Something is up, whatever................

$400 out the door. I wasn't happy about it, but then again, my brakes feel good again, parking brake nice and secure, AND my door lock switch works again. I went away Honda Happy, but my wallet didn't. Sucks not having time to do this.................. Saw the newer Civics on the lot and was drooling, then thought about the leaked pics of the 2021 (or 2022) model. It looks like an Accord, but that is ok by me. If/when my rig decides to take a permanent vacation, it very well could be replaced by a CRV (RAV4 has me drooling too). My new job could involve me needing more space and being all-weather capable. My 4Runner provides that, but it is wifeys and it GARGLES GAS (while it's off)..................

Urghhhhhhhhh

 

[Luns]

I also asked about getting the valves adjusted. They suggested that they be left alone since I'm at (close) to 300K. They claim the computer compensates for wear and mileage of engine components (makes sense), also since the engine isn't making a lot of noise, to leave it alone. I dunno. Then why does Honda suggest they be adjusted every 100K???? Something is up, whatever................

Makes no sense. The main point of adjusting your valves is that as the exhaust valve seats erode, the valves recede, reducing the valve lash. If the lash goes to zero, the exhaust valves can’t close fully and will start leaking and then burn up. The valve adjustment is to restore valve lash to stay ahead of this. Nowhere in all this is there noise (which comes from excess, not insufficient lash), and the computer isn’t involved in any way that can compensate.

Where noise comes in is if the camshaft or cam followers wear faster than the seats erode. In this case you get noise and the valves should be adjusted to compensate. Your service writer probably only understands this scenario and not the other.

What the service writer says can only make sense in two ways that I can figure. They may figure that when the exhaust valves eat themselves, they can pass it off as being normal for 300k. That, or they figure the engine is ready to die of something else before the valves go on you, and don’t want you to feel you wasted money on the valve adjustment when that happens. Either way, they’re encouraging you to buy a new car instead of keeping yours on the road.

I do the valves when I replace spark plugs. It’s similar to doing the water pump when you do a timing belt - doing the one service covers most of the work of the other, so why not? I suppose on that note it’d be more accurate to say that I replace the spark plugs when I do the valves.

 

[EdNaviEx]

Makes no sense. The main point of adjusting your valves is that as the exhaust valve seats erode, the valves recede, reducing the valve lash. If the lash goes to zero, the exhaust valves can’t close fully and will start leaking and then burn up. The valve adjustment is to restore valve lash to stay ahead of this. Nowhere in all this is there noise (which comes from excess, not insufficient lash), and the computer isn’t involved in any way that can compensate.

Where noise comes in is if the camshaft or cam followers wear faster than the seats erode. In this case you get noise and the valves should be adjusted to compensate. Your service writer probably only understands this scenario and not the other.

What the service writer says can only make sense in two ways that I can figure. They may figure that when the exhaust valves eat themselves, they can pass it off as being normal for 300k. That, or they figure the engine is ready to die of something else before the valves go on you, and don’t want you to feel you wasted money on the valve adjustment when that happens. Either way, they’re encouraging you to buy a new car instead of keeping yours on the road.

I do the valves when I replace spark plugs. It’s similar to doing the water pump when you do a timing belt - doing the one service covers most of the work of the other, so why not? I suppose on that note it’d be more accurate to say that I replace the spark plugs when I do the valves.

Your scenarios make perfect sense. Adjusting them doesn't seem to be terribly difficult, but then again, if I screw it up, I can do real damage on an 300K engine. I have the tools to do it and the enthusiasm to tackle it, I just would need the "experienced mechanic" at my side to do it. My mechanic friend said, "If it isn't broke, don't fix it". I believe in that to a degree. I'll price around indy shops to see how much. What I can't get over is why Honda recommends valve adjustment every 100K? Anyway, I've been asking them for years and I was always told it wasn't needed. I'm starting to believe that is complete hogwash as much as Lexus/Toyota dealers try to pawn off the "lifetime ATF" on their cars.

 

[EdNaviEx]

Installed my Tritons (vLeds V6) and Osram HID bulbs (CBIs). Got them a while back, I just didn't have the time to install them.

Here we go taking the front bumper off for the 9374957239487th time

Out with the old (bulb)

In with the new (vLed)

Well made product, no doubting that.

Also got the "module" that prevents "hyper flashing".

Love it when everything works, LOL.

I like it.

http://imgur.com/QHiP5Cl

 

[FuntanaS]

Had a set of Michelin Defenders put on my wifes 08 on Friday.

 

[nonfriendo]

Adjusted my valves yesterday, never been done and around 148k miles, I feel like my engine was overdue for a tune-up with the valves. Everything went great and honestly was a relatively easy job as long as you have the tools for it. Accidentally overtightened one of the adjustment screws when I went to go torque it down since my torque wrench didn't click, so not sure if I should fix it or just leave the rocker arm un-adjusted and a bit loose clearance wise. Engine seems to idle a bit smoother, also seems to drive smoother at low accelerations as well. Don't notice a big difference in engine noise, maybe a tiny bit quieter. Overall glad it was done and again, not a tough job to do.

Also installed a new valve cover gasket since I was already in there, easy and quick $8 part. The OEM one that was in there was pretty stuck and kinda nasty looking, so glad I popped a new one in there.

 

[EdNaviEx]

I saw your thread about the rocker screw, so it was never "fixed"? I would have it fixed, take it to an indy shop, this should be easy for them to do. I know that would bother me to no end. I'm sure most would agree. Good to hear that it isn't a difficult job to do........... if only i had the time and guts to do it, LOL.

 

[nonfriendo]

I saw your thread about the rocker screw, so it was never "fixed"? I would have it fixed, take it to an indy shop, this should be easy for them to do. I know that would bother me to no end. I'm sure most would agree. Good to hear that it isn't a difficult job to do........... if only i had the time and guts to do it, LOL.

No I didn't fix it yet, I plan to whenever the adjustment screw replacement comes in. I'm just going to rip out the existing one, check the threads for damage, rethread if I have to, then install new adjustment screw. I would definitely give the job a shot if you're mechanically inclined. Getting the valve cover off is easy and honestly the only "hard" part is knowing how to use a feeler gauge and get it to the correct clearance. The only thing I recommend is to pinch your feeler gauge with your fingertips, that's close to the amount of drag you want to have on it to adjust the valves correctly. There's tons of YouTube tutorials how to do it, watch a few and you can do it.

I think it's worth it, throw in a new valve cover gasket while you're in there. My engine idles smoother, low speed acceleration is smoother now too and hopefully my engine operates more efficiently. Well, once I get ALL the valves adjusted and not just leaving one out of whack

 

[EdNaviEx]

Nice! My valve cover is slightly leaking and I want to say the engine is a tad course at 3,000 rpm, otherwise it is smooth. Idle is ok, but seems to be a little shaky at times. I live in the Philly suburbs and went to New York area ( I've been going there regularly lately and timed my MPGs at 35-36mpg). I run about 70mph. My mechanic friend says that is phenomenal with a motor with that many miles.......... he told me, "leave the valves alone".......... LOL.