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can you get the halos to work or figure out why they dont work, or even willing to replace them with rgb ones or something.

btw new stuff GOT all my COSMIS RIMS in finally and my NEO Ti oil cap cover. also some 5d carbon fiber film
 

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I replaced the original front brake pads on my 2010 this weekend at 67k miles. They could have gone a little longer but were close to the squealers.

I also added some refrigerant to my wifes 2008. The compressor would turn on and run but it would barely blow cold. After putting in some more refrigerant it blows nice and cold. 😎
 

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I replaced the original front brake pads on my 2010 this weekend at 67k miles. They could have gone a little longer but were close to the squealers.

I also added some refrigerant to my wifes 2008. The compressor would turn on and run but it would barely blow cold. After putting in some more refrigerant it blows nice and cold. 😎
Hope that fixes your wife's A/C permanently. slow leak is how mine started, eventually leading to completely replacing my compressor (years later)
 

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I just finished replacing the passenger side door sash tape. Going to do the drivers side later. It is a ton of work but it came out perfect and looks really nice. My original sash tape was cut and nicked up from the window visors the previous owner had on the car. A lot of stuff has to be disassembled to replace it but I think the end result is worth it.
 

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ok I have done alot. I added and applied the cerakote to all my grey/faded trim (black again). I finally got my cosmis racing rims (thanks pandemic). Go custom Cosmis racing center caps in all carbon fiber with there logo etched in. I am in the process of making a Dressup bolt kit for R18 guys. majority of bolts already applied. did a completed engine bay clean and detail. Redid my Carbon fiber gas door in new 5d. Got a new VMS Neo Ti oil cap
 

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Urghhhhhhh. Happens when I brake and/or slowing down. Goes away when I accelerate. Time to shop for a alternator.

 

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Dumb question, does that hazzard button light up when it is activated? (flash when the flashers are activated?)
I don’t think our wiring harnesses have a wire for it, but the switch itself does have a spot for a second lamp. The identical switch body is used with different button faces and mounting brackets for different applications.



It’d be trivial to put a second brighter bulb in the open spot in the switch, and add the extra two pins to the wiring harness connector to get to it. Figuring out an appropriate place to run the wire from there to get the blink shouldn’t be too difficult.
 

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I don’t think our wiring harnesses have a wire for it, but the switch itself does have a spot for a second lamp. The identical switch body is used with different button faces and mounting brackets for different applications.



It’d be trivial to put a second brighter bulb in the open spot in the switch, and add the extra two pins to the wiring harness connector to get to it. Figuring out an appropriate place to run the wire from there to get the blink shouldn’t be too difficult.
Interesting. So add another (same) bulb and figure out where to (which pin(s) to use then run wire to......) splice into. Like you said, shouldn't be rocket science.
So, from fuse box under the hood, fuse 10 (hazard light fuse). Problem is: it's a 10A fuse. From this info, not sure how to proceed. It would be cool to see the hazard light button flash with the hazards when activated.
 

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Interesting. So add another (same) bulb and figure out where to (which pin(s) to use then run wire to......) splice into. Like you said, shouldn't be rocket science.
So, from fuse box under the hood, fuse 10 (hazard light fuse). Problem is: it's a 10A fuse. From this info, not sure how to proceed. It would be cool to see the hazard light button flash with the hazards when activated.
I took a look at the wiring diagram and it’s not too bad. The pins are numbered from 1 on the left. Pins 1 and 2 go to the same red and grey wires as the other dash lights. Pins 4 and 5 are the switch, with one of them going to 12v, and the other giving the MICU.

So to light up the second bulb, we’d need to provide a switched ground to pin 3. This would need one, maybe two transistors, depending on whether pin 4 is 12v or the MICU line. If the second one is necessary with the standard wiring, we could get around it by swapping the wires for pin 4 and 5.

The gate of the one transistor can go to either of the turn signal indicator lights which themselves go straight to the signal lights. The second transistor gate would go to pin 5 of the hazard switch.
 

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I took a look at the wiring diagram and it’s not too bad. The pins are numbered from 1 on the left. Pins 1 and 2 go to the same red and grey wires as the other dash lights. Pins 4 and 5 are the switch, with one of them going to 12v, and the other giving the MICU.

So to light up the second bulb, we’d need to provide a switched ground to pin 3. This would need one, maybe two transistors, depending on whether pin 4 is 12v or the MICU line. If the second one is necessary with the standard wiring, we could get around it by swapping the wires for pin 4 and 5.

The gate of the one transistor can go to either of the turn signal indicator lights which themselves go straight to the signal lights. The second transistor gate would go to pin 5 of the hazard switch.
Interesting. So, its obvious even if one replaces it with one of those "JDM" buttons (red), it will not blink, just turn on with the rest of the dash lights.
 

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I finished the dress up bolt kit. ill send specs to them to make a Ex LX DX GX kit for us. Also ordered custom APR Headstuds. Get those now before the company stops making them. Next up im either focusing on wrap job or Built Transmission. Need to wrapped so I can throw on these new Cosmis racing rims. then again may wait alitte bit and finish more little things like get headliner redone in red and retint
 

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Got a battery charger from Amazon coming in soon. I still need an alternator. I've been eyeballing a reman Denso for about $220. A new one is $450. Honda wants $700 out the door (reman honda). Not gonna happen. Anyway, my mechanic friend is about a 2 hour drive. I doubt I'll make it (unless MAYBE I get a Walmart battery and take it with me in case the charged up batt dies on me). Going to start looking near me for someone to install my alternator (most won't unless I get one from them.......... eff that). Can't complain I guess, this one made it to 290,000 miles.

Got a new windshield installed, PGW. Love it, but this shop was 20 min away and my alternator wasn't charging.
 

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Got a battery charger from Amazon coming in soon. I still need an alternator. I've been eyeballing a reman Denso for about $220. A new one is $450. Honda wants $700 out the door (reman honda). Not gonna happen. Anyway, my mechanic friend is about a 2 hour drive. I doubt I'll make it (unless MAYBE I get a Walmart battery and take it with me in case the charged up batt dies on me). Going to start looking near me for someone to install my alternator (most won't unless I get one from them.......... eff that). Can't complain I guess, this one made it to 290,000 miles.

Got a new windshield installed, PGW. Love it, but this shop was 20 min away and my alternator wasn't charging.
The alternator is super easy to replace. Right up top. Take the belt off, disconnect a few electrical connections and it's two bolts.
 

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The alternator is super easy to replace. Right up top. Take the belt off, disconnect a few electrical connections and it's two bolts.
Definitely considering doing it myself, but I don't trust myself to take the belt off (I've never done it myself). Besides the belt, I know I can do it myself. I can do my own rotors/pads.................. hmmmm, maybe I can do it myself. I've seen a few youtube videos.............. LMAO
 

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Definitely considering doing it myself, but I don't trust myself to take the belt off (I've never done it myself). Besides the belt, I know I can do it myself. I can do my own rotors/pads.................. hmmmm, maybe I can do it myself. I've seen a few youtube videos.............. LMAO

Taking the belt off is easy as long as you can get a wrench onto the tensioner. On some cars there’s not enough clearance to get a regular ratchet head in there, but I usually borrow a serpentine belt tool set from Autozone which is basically a flat bar with a socket head on it, an extension and a few sockets. I’ve had to use my own socket before since what’s included isn’t complete - ISTR there’s no 19mm.

What can be tricky is putting the belt back on. The first time can be frustrating since the belt often likes to come off of one pulley when you’re trying to get it onto another. You can spend a lot of time fiddling with it ending up right back where you started. Just be patient and try not to worry about never getting it on. It definitely gets better with experience when you can tell yourself “I did it before, I can do it again”

Standing in front of the car reach in with your left arm and see if you can touch the edges of all the grooved pulleys. If you can, you should be able to eventually get your belt on. You don’t necessarily need to get your fingers behind the deepest edge of the pulley, but as long as you can touch right where the belt engages or leaves the pulley, then you can finesse the belt into proper engagement if you got it on but off by a groove.

Factory instructions would have you come in from the wheel well, but I’ve always just reached down from above. Skinny forearms help.

Do you have a buzzing noise from the alternator or just the indicator light? If it’s only the light, it may be just the brushes as they’re often the first thing to go. If you’re not afraid to potentially do this twice, you might consider getting an alternator brush set to swap in - it’s only five screws once you have the alternator out. I don’t necessarily trust the replacement bearings on a rebuilt alternator to be better than used original bearings.
 

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Taking the belt off is easy as long as you can get a wrench onto the tensioner. On some cars there’s not enough clearance to get a regular ratchet head in there, but I usually borrow a serpentine belt tool set from Autozone which is basically a flat bar with a socket head on it, an extension and a few sockets. I’ve had to use my own socket before since what’s included isn’t complete - ISTR there’s no 19mm.

What can be tricky is putting the belt back on. The first time can be frustrating since the belt often likes to come off of one pulley when you’re trying to get it onto another. You can spend a lot of time fiddling with it ending up right back where you started. Just be patient and try not to worry about never getting it on. It definitely gets better with experience when you can tell yourself “I did it before, I can do it again”

Standing in front of the car reach in with your left arm and see if you can touch the edges of all the grooved pulleys. If you can, you should be able to eventually get your belt on. You don’t necessarily need to get your fingers behind the deepest edge of the pulley, but as long as you can touch right where the belt engages or leaves the pulley, then you can finesse the belt into proper engagement if you got it on but off by a groove.

Factory instructions would have you come in from the wheel well, but I’ve always just reached down from above. Skinny forearms help.

Do you have a buzzing noise from the alternator or just the indicator light? If it’s only the light, it may be just the brushes as they’re often the first thing to go. If you’re not afraid to potentially do this twice, you might consider getting an alternator brush set to swap in - it’s only five screws once you have the alternator out. I don’t necessarily trust the replacement bearings on a rebuilt alternator to be better than used original bearings.
Yes, the tensioner is the what I'm most concerned about. I have a "pull bar" with a 3/8 socket end (19mm for the tensioner) for this. My mechanic friend I should tackle this without much worry. I've already taken the battery out to charge it. Taking it out, OF COURSE, one of the terminal bolts snapped off. Not a good start. My alternator never made a noise (at least I don't remember) so your theory of the brushes going bad could be spot on. I just don't trust myself to replace the brushes. Also, the bearings on this are original and have close to 300K miles on them. I'll be ordering a reman Denso alternator on fleabay (about $230) so if it lasts me another 100,000 miles, I'll be happy. If not, well, at least I know how to do this. There is no way I'm getting a reman Honda for $465 (conicelli Honda online) or a new Denso for $455, nor will I get a cheap one for $65+. I've had good luck with Denso in the past so.............

I'll post updates as this project goes.................

I'll be cleaning it up tonight and placing an order for "battery setting rods" (part number: 31513-SL4-000 for $4.46 each, I'll need 2 b/c mine are all crusty) and "battery setting plate" (the plate that goes on top of the battery, part number; 31512-SA5-000, for $15.25, mine lots like hell) and the bolt I killed (i'll get that at an AutoZone or something).
 

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Got the alternator today, took it out to inspect it and noticed that the pulley doesn't spin freely and makes a sound as though something was dragging. That doesn't seem normal. Any thoughts?
 
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