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My new Honda windshield is going to be installed either today or tomorrow. A rock broke my windshield a few weeks ago. Excited to have that in and put the car back together.

About 2 years ago I had a friend who has (limited) access to a Hunter alignment rack do a full alignment on my car. The alignment was spot on but the steering wheel has been about 4 degrees angled to the right. Drove me nuts! So this weekend I carefully adjusted each tie-rod in equal and opposite directions to center the steering wheel. Now it is super straight. So much nicer!
 

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My new Honda windshield is going to be installed either today or tomorrow. A rock broke my windshield a few weeks ago. Excited to have that in and put the car back together.

About 2 years ago I had a friend who has (limited) access to a Hunter alignment rack do a full alignment on my car. The alignment was spot on but the steering wheel has been about 4 degrees angled to the right. Drove me nuts! So this weekend I carefully adjusted each tie-rod in equal and opposite directions to center the steering wheel. Now it is super straight. So much nicer!
I wish I knew how to do that. Since installing my tie-rod end links, the alignment has been a tad off. Very annoying.
 

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Official "What did you do to the R18 today" thread

Well my insurance company said that I can buy the OEM glass and they will reimburse me. I told them that if they pay for OEM glass I will cover the cost of installation. Should only be ~$50 to put it in since my dad knows a glass guy. My dad and I will take the old glass out and have it all ready for the guy to put it in.


If you haven't already taken the glass out yourself, you might want to ask the glass guy if it's better to let him do it. When I had my windshield replaced, the guys used a cold knife to cut the urethane rather than the traditional cable saw. This went really fast, and also did minimal damage to the surrounding paint so, there was very little touch-up work needed. If you have a cold knife, or intend to do all the paint touch-up yourself before having him put in the windshield, then it may be alright, but even then, he may be particular about what you use for the touch-up and if it's compatible with the urethane. Best to ask.

Oh, also, did you get just the windshield, or did you also get the OEM rubber dam set (04731-SNA-A00) too? Factory install had the rubber dam around the periphery which would set the height the glass sits at. Replacement glass installers typically don't bother with it, and just rely on the slump of their urethane to give some height. This is hard to control, especially if you need to drive the car at freeway speed without letting the urethane set (for 24 hrs) first. Poor control of the glass height can lead to additional wind noise.
 

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Last time my rig was on the lift, it was for an A/C compressor replacement. While up there, we (friend and I) noticed the end link rubber completely slashed with grease everywhere. Car wasn't clunking/ticking/whatever, but decided it was time to have them (both) replaced the next time I was in town. So we did.
The dealership once pointed out my boots were shot. The joints themselves were fine without any perceptible play, so I replaced just the boots themselves. It was pretty easy, with the hardest part being just getting the remnants of the old boots off. I didn't bother with an alignment afterwards, but the next alignment inspection I had showed that I didn't affect anything in the process.

One thing with the boots is that the factory directions tell you to avoid getting grease on the taper when putting the joint back together, but with the grease they tell you to load in the boot before assembly, it's kinda hard to avoid. I haven't noticed any ill effect of misplaced grease so far though.

I may soon be up for the tie-rod ends' bigger brother, the main ball joints, though.
 

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The dealership once pointed out my boots were shot. The joints themselves were fine without any perceptible play, so I replaced just the boots themselves. It was pretty easy, with the hardest part being just getting the remnants of the old boots off. I didn't bother with an alignment afterwards, but the next alignment inspection I had showed that I didn't affect anything in the process.

One thing with the boots is that the factory directions tell you to avoid getting grease on the taper when putting the joint back together, but with the grease they tell you to load in the boot before assembly, it's kinda hard to avoid. I haven't noticed any ill effect of misplaced grease so far though.

I may soon be up for the tie-rod ends' bigger brother, the main ball joints, though.
Ball joints? Yuk. Well, next on the list are the front pads and rotors. Not sure I mentioned this, but both pads are split down the middle (but still together). Annoying as the thickness of the pads are fine.
 

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If you haven't already taken the glass out yourself, you might want to ask the glass guy if it's better to let him do it. When I had my windshield replaced, the guys used a cold knife to cut the urethane rather than the traditional cable saw. This went really fast, and also did minimal damage to the surrounding paint so, there was very little touch-up work needed. If you have a cold knife, or intend to do all the paint touch-up yourself before having him put in the windshield, then it may be alright, but even then, he may be particular about what you use for the touch-up and if it's compatible with the urethane. Best to ask.

Oh, also, did you get just the windshield, or did you also get the OEM rubber dam set (04731-SNA-A00) too? Factory install had the rubber dam around the periphery which would set the height the glass sits at. Replacement glass installers typically don't bother with it, and just rely on the slump of their urethane to give some height. This is hard to control, especially if you need to drive the car at freeway speed without letting the urethane set (for 24 hrs) first. Poor control of the glass height can lead to additional wind noise.
My dad and I took the glass out last Saturday. We used piano wire to cut it out. My dad owned his own body shop for almost 20 years so he knows what he is doing. We were careful and didn't cut the paint at all. The glass guy will apply primer to the surface so that will seal in any cuts to the paint.

Yeah, I bought all of the moldings to go with it, the top rubber molding and also the foam tape. Although after talking to the glass guy he said he doesn't need the foam tape. He said the OEM urethane at the factory is much runnier than what he uses so that foam tape isn't necessary. That foam tape just keeps the urethane from flowing too far inward. So if he says he doesn't need it I trust him. I can get $15 back. :)

I am driving a spare car right now so I plan to let the urethane dry for 1-2 days before driving it.
 

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My wallet slipped and ordered a Yonaka Exhaust for my Coupe. It should arrive by next week! Will post a video when I get it installed.
 

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Hey there, New here. Just joined the Honda club. Bought a 2008 Honda Civic lx yesterday. 5 speed manual and loving this purchase 77,000 miles or 125000 kms. Bone stock....for now
 

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That1trucker: what mods plans do you have for it? Looks pretty nice.
well I’ve ordered some wheels for it the day after I bought it, should get those next week sometime. I’m a real newbie when it comes to missing so ima research before I buy anything. But plan on some tint, stereo which I have, an exhaust and probably some coilovers and there’s other things I want to do but those are the main things for now
 

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Finally got my Yonaka Exhaust on. However, it was an annoying experience. I had a friend grind off and drill through what looks like welded bolts on the pipe before the cat because those bolts were not long enough to connect the mid-pipe and the front pipe (Part 1 on the diagram).



<br>



We also tried to loosen it with WD-40 then hammering the bolts off, but it would not budge.

Planning on recording a video and uploading it soon, but recent recordings have the mic blown and does not benefit the audio lol. So far, the exhaust sounds really good. It's a deep hum sound between 2k-3k and is not obnoxiously loud.
 

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UURghhhhhhhhhhhhh.

Well, on the way home I noticed my front brake making a weird sound. When I let go (to reverse or go forward) of the brake, it continues to make a noise as if they are still engaged. Fast forward a few miles on a hill I know my car rolls backwards (slight), it stood in place when I let go of the brakes. Eff. Frozen calipers.

Half way home, all seems ok, but no doubt they are on the way out. So it off to RockAuto to find calipers............................

Looking for self bleeders as well.

EDIT: After an hour of digging, I found the following information.

I've decided to go with Stainless Steal b/c I live in the rust belt.

The Speed Bleeder size is: SB10125-SS

It is 10mm by 1.25

The overall length is: 34.5 mm. The length from the tip to the bottom of the hex nut is 22mm.

All Speed Bleeders are sold with black dust caps.


Stainless Steel speed Bleeders are made of 303 stainless steel and are CNC machined. They are tougher than the OEM style Speed Bleeders, will never corrode, and are hand polished to a chrome-like brilliance.


The Speed Bleeder is truly a one-person bleeder screw. Once installed, it becomes a permanent part of the brake system. When it is time to bleed your brakes, you loosen the Speed Bleeder ¼ to ½ turns and pump your brake pedal or brake lever. When the pedal or lever is depressed the pressure generated opens the check valve letting air and brake fluid out of the end of the Speed Bleeder. When you release the pedal or lever and it returns to the up position, the check valve closes and prevents any air from reentering the system through the Speed Bleeder. When bubble free fluid is evident you close the Speed Bleeder. In the closed position it works just like your stock bleeder screw and prevents any brake fluid from leaking out. That is all there is to bleeding your brakes. If at a later date you need to bleed your brakes, the patented thread sealing system makes it easy to open the bleeder screw to perform the bleeding operation. It is made of quality materials:

· Stainless steel spring
· Stainless steel ball
· Brass retainer
· The threads are roll formed. This process results in a stronger and smoother thread than one that is cut.
· The chamber for the ball and spring is precision reamed and the seat for the stainless steel ball is machined to exacting tolerances.
· Patented thread sealing system seals the threads when the bleeding operation is performed, preventing air from being sucked back into the system.
· The pre-applied thread sealant also displaces air and moisture during thread engagement preventing rust...which usually results in rounded off corners on the hex or busted off bleeder screws making it necessary to replace the caliper or brake cylinder. The application of thread sealant thus makes it easy to loosen or remove the bleeder screw at any time.
· Simple to use.
· Saves time and money.
· Requires only one person to do.
· Perfect for racing where brake fluid is changed frequently.
· A must for the do-it-yourselfer

Color: The color of the Speed Bleeders will vary from a silver color, to a gold color, to a copper color. All Stainless Steel Speed Bleeders are silver in color
 

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Finally got my Yonaka Exhaust on. However, it was an annoying experience. I had a friend grind off and drill through what looks like welded bolts on the pipe before the cat because those bolts were not long enough to connect the mid-pipe and the front pipe (Part 1 on the diagram).

image


<br>

image


We also tried to loosen it with WD-40 then hammering the bolts off, but it would not budge.

Planning on recording a video and uploading it soon, but recent recordings have the mic blown and does not benefit the audio lol. So far, the exhaust sounds really good. It's a deep hum sound between 2k-3k and is not obnoxiously loud.
Oh, exhaust work. Often not fun stuff. A few weeks ago my husband went through something similar on his Prelude when trying to take off the header. The 3 flange bolts that attach the header to the cat were stuck on there and wouldn't come off. You would think they were welded on there. We had to drop the whole exhaust as one piece which was really fun experience, haha.

Definitely upload a video when you can. My Civic's exhaust is starting to rust out especially on the muffler. I don't know how much life is left in it and I'll have to be looking at exhausts eventually.
 

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Oh, exhaust work. Often not fun stuff. A few weeks ago my husband went through something similar on his Prelude when trying to take off the header. The 3 flange bolts that attach the header to the cat were stuck on there and wouldn't come off. You would think they were welded on there. We had to drop the whole exhaust as one piece which was really fun experience, haha.

Definitely upload a video when you can. My Civic's exhaust is starting to rust out especially on the muffler. I don't know how much life is left in it and I'll have to be looking at exhausts eventually.


If the above video does not work, here is the link:
https://youtu.be/RsEd0KW6zvA

Finally recorded a video with my new exhaust. Had to re-record a few times because I had to position the mic away from the muffler or else it will destroy the mic peaks haha. Revved her around the 2k-3k then around 4k-5k near the end of the video.

It's not extremely loud like a Borla or Magnaflow exhaust might be. It sounds like you have a subwoofer in the back haha, but I think this is perfect for me since California is notorious for strict regulations regarding exhausts and dB readings. I'd rather not attract police attention - which I passed by a few of the cops on bikes and the did not say anything.

Overall I am a happy customer. Thanks Yonaka!
 

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https://youtu.be/RsEd0KW6zvA]movie[/URL]

If the above video does not work, here is the link:
https://youtu.be/RsEd0KW6zvA

Finally recorded a video with my new exhaust. Had to re-record a few times because I had to position the mic away from the muffler or else it will destroy the mic peaks haha. Revved her around the 2k-3k then around 4k-5k near the end of the video.

It's not extremely loud like a Borla or Magnaflow exhaust might be. It sounds like you have a subwoofer in the back haha, but I think this is perfect for me since California is notorious for strict regulations regarding exhausts and dB readings. I'd rather not attract police attention - which I passed by a few of the cops on bikes and the did not say anything.

Overall I am a happy customer. Thanks Yonaka!
That's a nice exhaust note. It sounds just a little louder than stock. Does it drone at all when driving or no?
 

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That's a nice exhaust note. It sounds just a little louder than stock. Does it drone at all when driving or no?
It does not drone if you're driving past 3k RPM. I leave it on 5th driving at about 60-65 mph while the RPM's are about 3k-4k and it is almost barely noticeable. The only time I hear it is in the 2k-3k range in a deep tone, which is perfect for me at least haha.
 

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Giving up on my PYvideo rear camera. The original one I installed burnt out and I was sent a replacement. I wasn't told that the voltage was different and so the replacement was fried. At least that's my assessment of what happened. Going to give the NATIKA 720p camera a try. Expensive, but then again, when i install this thing, I never want to deal with it again.

I'll post updates.
 
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