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none...y'd u ask?

Is this something that you want to purchase, but it holds you from buying cuz might have something in effect in the long run?

Its just pulleys..If ever something will go wrong it will just be the belt.
 

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Si-Onara
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
^^ yeah kinda and i have read through all the sticky and searched and come back with mixed reviews but most of them positive! i am gonna install them no matter just wondering what i should expect!
 

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^^ yeah kinda and i have read through all the sticky and searched and come back with mixed reviews but most of them positive! i am gonna install them no matter just wondering what i should expect!
Trust me im the King of that debate on Honda crank pullies and the harmonic balancer but havent the clue of what the new k series motors have in regards to the ring. I would say this though after working at Honda myself and seeing many things and hopefully this remark will sooner or later click when you experience it yourself.

"Honda does not engineer without reason."

We always feel like we can re-engineer the greatest automotive engineering company. Which sure sometimes we can beat their exhaust systems and intake systems and so forth. It makes you think that there are always ways to upgrade....but at what costs. There are trade offs in just about everything we do.

But in regards to reliability if its worth the risk to you go ahead , no one will ever be able to find out what a pulley has done to their motor truly. Ive never heard a thing. I even ran one on my Prelude for many miles. Just the same as buying an air filter that doesnt match Hondas in terms of filtration.

Perhaps it did cause some ill results. I felt towards the end of my Prelude days my motor wasnt as strong as it was....but that could have been a number of things.

If I could do it again I probably wouldnt. But honest on the Civic Si and pretty much all current Hondas I have a feeling honda has underdriven there accessories more than previous. Reasons being for one if you rev up youll notice the a/c pumps out cooler air. Where as years ago you didnt , lights do somewhat dim at idle and other key traits that give me a clue that they have pushed towards a more underdriven accessory than before.

Id leave it alone as I feel you really arent going to feel much of anything from pullies. At least I didnt in my previous vehicle , but I havent read up much on the subject for the Si. Maybe others are saying its the best thing since slice bread.

Sorry to make some long post....but its just something I think to myself and laugh. I know Honda does an amazing job with their motors and they look at every angle. Not just power , but costs , reliability , drivability , vibration , sound...etc. Its probably near impossible to beat them at everything they have engineered into that part. Beyond just power.

Kinda the same when I see people buying heat resistant intake manifold gaskets. I just wonder why Honda didnt put in a part that would cost them no more than a metal one if it made the motor more powerful.

Use your own judgement or better yet do what you heart desires, the greatest part of tuning vehicles and probably the most fun.
 

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Si-Onara
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Found this on prelude power.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiserdude
I can verify the weight of the stock one, as I have a new one on hand right now. No offense and I'm sure you've heard this, but I would highly recommend your changing back to the stock pulley. It's gonna be expensive enough changing your tranny on down the road, w/o having to worry about an engine too someday.

4) "Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?"

People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some domestic V6 & V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper. None of the applications we offer use a counterweight as part of the pulley, as these engines are all internally balanced.
The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley making them look similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress noise from the engine accessories; the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to realize in these applications, the elastomer is inadequate in size and durability to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda B & D Series engines, Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's just to mention a few. Most owners who have installed our pulleys notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is result of replacing the heavy crank pulley with our crank pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.
The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement and frequencies of high amplitude. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as shorter stroke length, smaller displacement, piston dwell time, piston pin off-set, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur. More importantly the actual tune of the engine, espcially with modified vheciles, is the biggest factor in potential engine damage. Poor tuning leads to detonation which is an engine killer that no damper can stop.
Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about solid crank pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand our crank pulleys better.
5) "Will Unorthodox Racing lightened pulleys cause an oil pump failure?"

Urban myths have been floating around about Honda oil pumps failing by using an Unorthodox Racing crank pulley/s. The real fact is that these OEM pumps have been failing with AND WITHOUT the use of our pulleys and before our crank pulley/s were available on the market. Also note that these failures are few and far in between.
The Acura/Honda oil pumps are excellent units, but there are a number of reasons for the failures that do occur.
Most of the oil pump failures have been in Acura/Honda B series 1.6/1.8L applications, Chrsyler SRT4, Mazda 1.6/1.8L applications have seen a few failures, as well as the new Ford Focus ZETEC in race vehicles. Again, note that on all these applications the oil pump failures have occurred on engines not even using our pulley, they were using the stock crank pulley.
These pump failures can be linked to the following causes. These causes may act individually or in combination to cause the actual failures:

The gears used in many pumps including those in the Honda B series engines and Mazda Miata engines are of a low-cost powdered metal composition. The factory uses this metal because of its acceptable cost-to-strength ratio. The problem is, these parts are not always deburred properly from the factory and when pushed to their limits can and do fail.
Many times additional stress is added to the oil pump by using oil thicker than what is specified by the manufacturer. The oil pump and bearing clearances were not designed from the factory to push oil of higher viscosities. This extra stress on the gears, combined with the above mentioned poor deburring process, can attribute to oil pump failure or engine failure.
Another contributing factor to oil pump failures is the weak cast backing plate of the B16/B18 oil pumps. Simple inspection shows that when compared to an H22 oil pump, a screw is not present in a critical location of the plate in the B series pumps. Compound this with the use of a higher viscosity motor oil and poorly deburred pump components and you have the ingredients for an oil pump failure.
This issue, specific to the Mazda 1.6/1.8L engines, involves the flex of the crankshaft and the lower half of the engine due to the additional stress of a forced induction system (such as a turbo or supercharger). The additional stress produced by forced induction causes flexing of both the block and the crankshaft between the front main bearing and the oil pump. This can also contribute to oil pump failure. Early Miatas were notorious for having crankshaft problems and later models suffered from problems as power is increased significantly.
Lastly, any failure inside a motor, related to aging components or a poor engine rebuild, can cause the oil pump to fail. ANY particles passing through an oil pump design such as that used in the Honda B series engines will cause damage or failure.
Remember that oil pump failures happen regularly on engines using a factory crank pulley. To help combat these failures, a few steps should be taken to help prolong the life of your oil pump and engine:

Unless building a race motor with race clearances in mind, you should always use an oil viscosity matching, or as close to the factory recommendations as possible.
If using a factory oil pump, always have your oil pump components deburred properly. It is recommended you have a competent engine rebuilder handle this.
For those who run dedicated / extreme race vehicles we recommend using an external wet or dry sump oiling system. These systems are designed for the heavy abuse a race engine receives on the track. Remember, the stock oiling systems were designed for factory horsepower levels and can only handle a certain amount of power increase over that level.
Lastly and most obvious, have a competent, trusted machine or performance shop rebuild your precious motor. It only takes one simple mistake to turn a costly engine rebuild into a doorstop.
If you have any other questions about this subject please don't hesitate to give us a call or drop us an e-mail. We take great pride in the craftsmanship of our products and are constantly striving to provide the highest quality products available to you, our customers.
6) "Will these pulleys cause premature engine bearing wear?"

This is a fear many prospective owners have and is a valid concern since we are dealing directly with the rotating assembly. Fortunately it is another urban myth with no basis in fact. The fact is our pulleys have the opposite effect on engine bearings. The combination of tight tolerances, precise quality control, perfect balance, and dramatic weight loss versus the stock pulleys reduces stress loads on your engine, extending the service life of your engine. Engine bearing problems are purely associated to poor engine maintenance, use of heavier than factory recommended oils, improper engine building practices (which includes poor balancing), excessively revving of engines when they are cold, and owners expecting their factory oil pumps to handle engine power outputs beyond 3, 4, even 5+ times the stock power levels.






--- i got this off the Unorthodox Racing site. Id give a summary but it explains itself. The reason im bringing this up is because i need to replace my pulley. It is a little wobbley and its freaking me out so im just gonna replace it with a new one. Now based off what this FAQ states what would your opinion on this issue be now?
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